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Fox coilovers on an '06 LJ?

Tinstar

Red Skull Member
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May 19, 2020
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Considering switching from ORI's to Fox coilvers. Main reason is the ORI's need adjusting with temperature changes.

2.5's or? Jeep weights about 3850 and running 37's. 9"R/D44F. What's a good starting point for springs?

Walked by the Jeep this afternoon and saw this. Maybe a bit hard to see but the wet spot is the oil out of the ORI.

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2.0" will work. But if your spring rates are light the spring can bow into the shock body.
2.5" shock allow for bigger id springs so the springs are less likely to rub the body.
Cost is not much more.
Get them with reservoirs even if the budget keeps you in a 2.0

Accutune can probably deliver a set of shocks and springs that are very good if you can give them accurate vehicle information.
 
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I have a TJ that is stretched to LJ width running 37's and Teraflex 44/Super 44's with total weight of 4358 (2323 front/2035 rear). I have 2.5x14 Fox Factory (Race) Series coilovers in the front and 2.0x14 Factory series in the rear. Both have remote reservoirs. Travel set at 7/7 and I have Eibach springs. The Front springs are 150 lb x 14" over 250 lb x 16" in the front and 150 lb x 14" over 200 lb x 16" in the rear. I used Accutune and HIGHLY recommend them. They were able to hit the rates/travel on the first try, but do have the option to swap at no cost if needed.

A couple points to consider:
The spring rates and lengths are also dependent upon shock length and desired up/down travel, so you will have to factor that in. Definitely get your Jeep accurately weighed, corner weights are nice if you can get them. If you have access to the coilovers and a set of springs, you can use that to determine weight as well.

The 2.5 Factory Series Fox are ~ 3" longer than the corresponding 2.0 Series coilovers of the same travel (at least in the 14" ones), so make sure you check out the compressed and extended lengths to make sure you can package them.

I had to go w/ 2.0 coilovers in the rear for packaging reasons, and even w/ that I had to do some Serious Frenching into the frame to get them to not hit the frame or tire through the suspension travel range. There was just no way to get 2.5's in mine for the rear.
 
I'd be really surprised if your LJ weighs 3750. My TJ was built being fairly conscious of weight and weighs just under 3900. 35's and dana 44's.

A friend's LJ weighs over 1000# more. Close to 5300. Although he has steel corner armor and heavy 37's.

Before you order shocks w/ spring you should get that thing on a set of scales. Or order the shocks without springs and find someone you can borrow 4 springs from so you can get sprung corner weights.

I'd agree that 2.0's are likely fine unless you spend a whole lot of time playing race car in the desert.
 
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Curious the beef with the ORI's. I know nothing about the but am going to be installing an ORI 16" rockslayer set up on an LJ in the coming months. This will be just a late spring/ summer/ fall rig, no winter wheeling.
 
I'd be really surprised if your LJ weighs 3750. My TJ was built being fairly conscious of weight and weighs just under 3900. 35's and dana 44's.

A friend's LJ weighs over 1000# more. Close to 5300. Although he has steel corner armor and heavy 37's.

Before you order shocks w/ spring you should get that thing on a set of scales. Or order the shocks without springs and find someone you can borrow 4 springs from so you can get unsprung corner weights.

I'd agree that 2.0's are likely fine unless you spend a whole lot of time playing race car in the desert.
On the weight... I'd say it's low too...

Mine weighs 3660 in stock form with full doors and soft top.

Will be re-weighing it after the Rubiconication, Long arms, and 37s.

Then again after armor and cage.
 
Well, easy is about their only redeeming quality.
If you're coming from parts store twin tubes for a completely different application (like leaf sprung truck rears on a coil sprung front) they're probably a lateral move. :laughing:
 
Interesting will be doing more research on them. These are low speed rock crawlers and drivers. "EASY" sounds great. Not having to package a sway bar sounds even better. Like leaf spring easy!
 
I built an LJ on tons for a customer using a set of 16" ORI STX struts and other then them being easy to package they were a nightmare to get them to do what I wanted. I did everything ORI wanted me to do to them to make them work right for my application, including disassemble them and cutting the tubes inside to their specified length, and they still sucked. 2nd trip out with the rig the LF strut locked solid and wouldn't move 5min after unloading the rig off the trailer, sent them all back to ORI to get them checked out and fixed and they were still meh at best. I'm not a fan anymore and sold the set I had bought for my personal build shortly after. Coilovers FTW.
 
Curious the beef with the ORI's. I know nothing about the but am going to be installing an ORI 16" rockslayer set up on an LJ in the coming months. This will be just a late spring/ summer/ fall rig, no winter wheeling.

We have pretty big temperature swings here. The ORI's change heights with the temp. They work perfect crawling along on big rocks, no issues there.

The ORI's don't seem to do well running across a rough pasture (gopher mounds) at speed. At about 30 mph you're taking a serious beating. I've ran the adjusters up and down along with changing upper and lower chamber pressure with no real change in ride. Maybe I am doing something wrong in setting them up.

In contrast my golf cart will run across the same pasture at 80 mph. I know, kangaroos to jackasses' comparison. I don't expect that from the Jeep no matter the set up. In that pasture a normal pickup will do about 5 mph hitting the bump stops and throwing you into the roof.

What little hesitation I had in changing them is just as mentioned, packaging. They fit and look awesome on the Jeep. No limit straps, no bumps ect.. Really a clean install.

As far as the no sway bar needed, from my experience you have to have proper front/rear sways for on road stability. I unhook my front sway when off roading.

I am in no way bashing ORI's. I'm just ready to try something different.

Edit: I will re-weigh, maybe my memory is off. Not sure I can find corner scales though.
 
Interesting will be doing more research on them. These are low speed rock crawlers and drivers. "EASY" sounds great. Not having to package a sway bar sounds even better. Like leaf spring easy!
I've heard this more than a couple of times and it doesn't make any sense. Unless they're hydraulically connected to the shock on the other side, or have some sort of computer control, I don't see any way you can get actual sway bar effect. A sway bar is completely passive on shared bumps, and levels the vehicle when the suspension is loaded on just one side (assuming its not too stiff).
 
I've heard this more than a couple of times and it doesn't make any sense. Unless they're hydraulically connected to the shock on the other side, or have some sort of computer control, I don't see any way you can get actual sway bar effect. A sway bar is completely passive on shared bumps, and levels the vehicle when the suspension is loaded on just one side (assuming its not too stiff).

If you manufactur them to be stiff as a brick with the upper and lower chamber air pressure fighting each other the whole time, in theory you could say "no sway bar needed" because the struts are so stiff they don't unload easily.
 
2.5s use a 3” spring. They’re big. I have 2.5” lungs on my Cherokee and 2.0s would have worked just fine. I’m not doing Baja 1000 speeds through the desert.
 
Mid west, we go to SMORR, Rush springs ect.. I don't take this on high consequence trails. I really like it and don't want to get upside down or beat up the body. I will drag it over about anything though.

Front is a Genrite 3 link on a Ford HP D44. Back suspension is "stock" with a 9" Ford with Artec brackets/truss and about 4" of lift and worn out rancho 5000 shocks. Rear is ready for the links/shocks that I never bought. (Genrite 4 link on the list). Worn bushings and too steep rear links make it rear steer quite a bit. Crawls really well. Sucks down the highway at 65.

Stock f/r sways. 37x13.50x15 Super Swamper M16's (that are 35 1/2") on 15" alum wheels. 20psi front/15psi rear
 
youll get better ride quality and have plenty of dampening with a 2.0 in coil or coilover form.

i have a customer who builds a ton of LJs and they use 12s at both ends with 2.0s. 6up/6down. dont get hung up on the 14s, quality over quantity.
 
youll get better ride quality and have plenty of dampening with a 2.0 in coil or coilover form.

i have a customer who builds a ton of LJs and they use 12s at both ends with 2.0s. 6up/6down. dont get hung up on the 14s, quality over quantity.

I recently pulled a set of 14's off the rear of a buddies lj and swapped them to 12's, it is so much better now. We were able to gain an extra 2.25" of bump travel and use a stiffer spring set. It rides significantly better now. 14's are a ton of shock to package on a full bodied jeep unless you are willing to drive a monster truck. 12's are great on tj/lj's.
 
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I beg to differ.......

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16" ORI's on a full bodied LJ on 42's with 7" of uptravel. It's no taller than a stock LJ with 4" lift and 33's.
See this is exactly what we want for my friends LJ. Good thing it's not my $ for the testing. And the rock slayer kit is quite proven. Should be very interesting!
 
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