Is there something specific that sucks with the Clark or just the dealers? I have a Clark dealer close enough to drive the lift to that it's their primary brand.
Clark engineers not only based their designs on the hatred for the mechanic sleeping with their wives, they added some kind of drug into the mix and came up with many designs that do not align with industry norms. Why do you need 2 brake master cylinders with a weird priority valve in between them? Juniper fuel systems? Just go shove your pecker in a pot of hot lard rendering, it will feel better than working on one. C500 brake job? That's a 2 week shop job at bazzillion dollars an hour. Clark customers and techs are a weird cult of masochists. Unless its an IT40, then keep that 70 year old pig out of the scrapyard. Who doesn't love a forklift that runs 235/85R15 tires?
Clark made some good stuff back in the day, but the brand has dwindled. In terms of engineering, quality, and support. I hate seeing the shade of green when I roll up. I had ALOT of customers with Clark stuff.
That chassis of Hyster is a pretty stout unit. That looks like a 33" battery box on that unit. An 18-85-27 will give around 1100AH. Its got traction-cushions front to back. The drives look a little worn. When its time for a new set, throw tractions on the front and smooths (cheaper) on the steer axle, there is no benefit to traction steers, they actually wear faster than smoothes, unless you're on a food grade slick floor that's always wet.
The only concerns I'd have with this unit is drive axle condition, drive motor condition and the rubber feet mounts for the steering pump are probably trashed if not done recently... Make sure the 12v stuff works, ie the work lights. If no 12v working, it will need a DC/DC converter. Not a bad fix, just pull the battery and replace it. Last I remember, they're less than $500
What they look like under the battery is a good tell on an electric, you're going to see corrosion, alot of it. Just the nature of the machine. But to what extent is the $64k question. Rusty stuff underneath is typical, rotten (or missing) drip tray is whatever. When the hydraulic hose fittings below battery are worn to "how is that not leaking" is when I'd start to take a step back.
Check for gouges inside the mast from the rollers, run it up all the way, see if it "racks" or tilts the carriage hard when going to full height and hits the stop, you need chain or mast parts. Could be as simple as shim job or chain adjustments on the secondaries. Mast channels should be level at full drop
What is the 2 letters after the numbers in the model number?
