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Ford 2.7 vs 3.5 vs. 5.0

Nice, my buddy has the same truck in Magma also. Awesome color, although I'm partial to mine in Green Gem.
 
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Just learned the truck is compatible with the Ford Pass app. That's pretty cool. Can start it, lock it, locate it and keep track of fuel and oil changes.

Also found where they hide the factory key code for the door buttons by the passenger fuse panel. Now have that too.

I'm liking it.
 
TiTRD said:
Just learned the truck is compatible with the Ford Pass app. That's pretty cool. Can start it, lock it, locate it and keep track of fuel and oil changes.

Also found where they hide the factory key code for the door buttons by the passenger fuse panel. Now have that too.

I'm liking it.
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Haven’t done much with the app. When you park daily in a tunnel with no service, you can’t remote start it. Plus side is underground doesn’t get cold enough to use remote start.

What did you order for a lift?
 
BUCKLAND said:
Haven’t done much with the app. When you park daily in a tunnel with no service, you can’t remote start it. Plus side is underground doesn’t get cold enough to use remote start.

What did you order for a lift?
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Just a front coil spacer. If I don't like it, it was cheap and can throw on coil overs down the road.
 
TiTRD said:
Truck needs tires, so ordered a leveling kit. Also seat covers and all weather mats. Messy-ass kid.

Debating bronze methods on 35s, or stockers on 35s.
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Decided on 33.5s on the stockers. I didn't realize these trucks had a crash bar in the wheel well that becomes an issue with 35s. I don't want to cut it.
 
Aggie06 said:
I went with eibach on my Chevy, and have been pretty happy with them.
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They're great for the money. Not much more than spacers, plus you're putting new/better shocks in, and adjustable.

I put a pair on my 4runner years ago. Ran them 1 notch above stock, then went up all the way when I added a winch bumper and skid plate, then back down to stock when I added lift coils.
 
My tundra has more or less this kit on it (uniball uca and different rear shocks). That and a rear Truetrac have made it very capable and soft riding. I am thinking the same for the F150.

iconvehicledynamics.com

ICON 2015-20 Ford F150 4WD, 0-2.63

ICON 2015-20 Ford F150 4WD, 0-2.63
iconvehicledynamics.com iconvehicledynamics.com
 
YotaAtieToo said:
They're great for the money. Not much more than spacers, plus you're putting new/better shocks in, and adjustable.

I put a pair on my 4runner years ago. Ran them 1 notch above stock, then went up all the way when I added a winch bumper and skid plate, then back down to stock when I added lift coils.
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The eibach kit is adjustable struts and coils. Somewhere between Bilstein and a fancy coilover.
 
Aggie06 said:
The eibach kit is adjustable struts and coils. Somewhere between Bilstein and a fancy coilover.
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Dude I read that as "I went with that" instead of "I went with eibach" :homer::laughing:

I'm sure there are better options than the 5100s, but for most people just street pounding 99% of the time. They're great.

Old man emu is also really good for mild lifts with good ride quality.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Dude I read that as "I went with that" instead of "I went with eibach" :homer::laughing:

I'm sure there are better options than the 5100s, but for most people just street pounding 99% of the time. They're great.

Old man emu is also really good for mild lifts with good ride quality.
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5100s are better than the Eibach stuff in my opinion. In fact, I swapped a set of 5100s back into my tundra to rebuild the Icons and can’t tell any difference. (Once I rebuild the Icons and put the smaller spacers in the Icons I bet that changes. )
 
Lower it instead :flipoff2:

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Threw the spacers in. Fuck sway bar end links. 28k and seized up. Was able to work one out, but had to cut the other. Luckily the small parts store in town had one. 3 hours wasted fucking with those. The lower A arm makes you have to take your time cutting the way it's recessed.

Alignment and tires next. Then I'll just drive it and rack commute miles on the Civic.

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I drove your truck's twin over the weekend, 18 3.5 except it was already on 35's

Holy shit that thing is a rocket ship compared to my 06 5.3 chevy. I really wish I hadn't driven it. I was thinking it would be gutless with 3.55 gears and 35's but nope it roasted the tires without even trying.
 
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TiTRD said:
Decided on 33.5s on the stockers. I didn't realize these trucks had a crash bar in the wheel well that becomes an issue with 35s. I don't want to cut it.
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For future reference, that junk just bolts on. Otherwise the truck would be totaled over a fender bender due to frame damage
 
TiTRD said:
Threw the spacers in. Fuck sway bar end links. 28k and seized up. Was able to work one out, but had to cut the other. Luckily the small parts store in town had one. 3 hours wasted fucking with those. The lower A arm makes you have to take your time cutting the way it's recessed.

Alignment and tires next. Then I'll just drive it and rack commute miles on the Civic.

IMG_20220408_184404123.jpg
IMG_20220408_184717869_HDR.jpg
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These will be my next tire for my F150. In the 35 flavor though. The razr m/t on my truck now seem to be wearing quick for only 20k on them.
 
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Yours has a pretty similar stance to mine. I have rancho struts in the front instead of spacers. 33s. I’m intending to switch from 20s to 17s when I wear out the current tires. Mine makes V8 noises.
 
Picking up a 15 3.5 eco boost in a couple of days. Buddy is upgrading and giving me a deal on his.
I could do without the Nannie’s but I can turn most off/down with a little work.
Couldn’t quite pay for it completely out of savings so I’ll have a payment :homer: first time in awhile.

We ran together the other day and he walked away from me. Both pulling, me a little heavier.
His towing mileage was better than my empty mileage. My 5.4 3valve is falling down.
 
Those short boxes kill me. I get if you don’t need more truck, what is the sense in paying to run it up and down the road.
 
BUCKLAND said:
Those short boxes kill me. I get if you don’t need more truck, what is the sense in paying to run it up and down the road.
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In my case my 5.0 F150 gets better fuel mileage than the Nissan Frontier that it replaced. I don’t need a pickup that’s larger and going smaller doesn’t necessarily get you more efficiency.
 
BUCKLAND said:
Those short boxes kill me. I get if you don’t need more truck, what is the sense in paying to run it up and down the road.
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I only have room for so many cars in the driveway, my 5.5' bed F150, as annoying as the short bed may be once in a while is truck enough for the rest of the time. Can fit a dirt bike or most of my ATVs in the bed with the tailgate shut, 4WD for the winter, enough room for the whole family when needed, enough ass to tow another rig on a trailer if needed etc... Four door half tons are the Swiss army knife of vehicles for my use.

If I were to replace it I'd buy a 6.5 or a Supercab with an 8ft but I was shopping used and at the time a 4 door/6.5 wasn't easy to come by in my budget and I had a kid in a car seat so a Supercab wasn't in the cards.
 
I wanted the 6.5' bed but couldn't find one near me that wasn't a stupid platinum/king ranch, XLT is good enough for me.


The truck I bought checked all the boxes except for the bed and wanting the sport appearance package, which I am slowly fixing the second one. Was wanting a blue truck but I loved this green when I saw it.
 
BUCKLAND said:
Those short boxes kill me. I get if you don’t need more truck, what is the sense in paying to run it up and down the road.
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My new time supercrew is as much family car that can tow as a truck. If I need to do serious truck stuff I have the shop truck, a super duty with a real bed and a 3V V10.
 
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