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Ford 1220 - Compact Tractor Backhoe build

FordFascist

Ford Bigot
Joined
May 21, 2020
Member Number
826
Messages
448
Loc
Reno, NV
I purchased this tractor in August of 2013 in Chowchilla, CA - with a sign-on bonus from a tech company I had the misfortune of working for.

It's a 1991 Ford 1220 4x4 - 3 cylinder Shibaura 1.0L Diesel, 17 hp - Hydrostatic transmission, Cat-1 3 point hitch, a multi axis Gannon scraper, power beyond hydraulics and a rear locker. I bought it originally to move shit around and help me maneuver my trailers around my yard in Campbell, CA. I love this thing. It's great.

Fast forward a few years

I became a refugee in NV a few years back and have now decided I need a backhoe. I was trying to find the original Ford New Holland 756 backhoe for this thing - but those are next to impossible.

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Since moving up here and building a newer, better shop (build coming) I had to rent a lot of equipment. It bothers me to rent so much shit when I can just own it. Commence backhoe hunt.

The 756B backhoe weighs about 650 lbs fully equipped - which is my baseline for my tractor. As stated earlier, those factory attachments are next to impossible to find for a 30 year old compact tractor.

I was fortunate enough to find a dimension chart for said attachment and went on the hunt for something similar size.

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I was surfing Craigslist and found a Bush Hog 665H which is damned near the same size for $1800. It's a 3 point hitch and Cat-1 3 point mounts aren't very strong from the factory on compact tractors. I knew I had to adapt it to a subframe style mount so it would not break my tractor. A quick trip to Gardnerville and it was mine.

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The next step in this process is to build a subframe. The original subframe kit appears to be simply a few pieces of 3/8" band iron that are attached to the front. Three-point backhoes have a pretty rigid design since they rely on the tractor only to hold them up - this makes building mounts to a subframe pretty easy.

I figured I could build something stronger - so I reached out to MtnYota since he actually followed through with a mechanical engineering degree and he recommended I use 5" structural C-Channel.

I put a 2.5" .188 wall tube between the two rail sections to keep it from twisting, and then added some 3/8 brackets under the loader subframe to attach the front of the backhoe subframe.

I used some 3/4 x 1-1/2" bar to go over the axle - space is pretty tight with the brakes.
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I have the subframe braced and built - I need to finish painting it Ford Blue.

I will add some more pictures of the final bracing tonight. Still waiting on the hydraulic hoses - apparently "trying" the original hoses is a bad idea - as in they may not always be in top condition. Good thing I was standing back.

More progress tonight....
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That backhoe brings up memories, not good ones :laughing:

Hope you like it when you're done, we found the little 3PH backhoes to be clumsy and underpowered.
 
I boxed in the outer section of the rear of the backhoe attachment and added some gussets to the rear of the frame.

I decided it was time to paint it Ford Blue. This is definitely not a Concourse-level paint scheme. The paint is super thick, almost like a bed liner. I'm hoping it will hold up to the abuse of being on my tractor.


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Still waiting on the hydraulic hose, then I will build a mount for the quick connect fittings, and then finally connect the backhoe and go dig some shit up in the back yard. At some point I will paint the BH to match the rest of the tractor.
 
That mount is beefy. I would imagine that will take a lot of abuse off the tractor..
 
Got it working. I need to refit the seat since it puts your head even with the ROPS bar.

Otherwise it's working pretty well. Not much movement about the tractor. You can move the damned tractor with this thing which is pretty cool. It also means I don't need a jack to get to any of the wheels anymore so that's a plus. I'll get some action shots this week.

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Yes, this has paid for itself in equipment rentals. I needed to finish a trench from my house to my shop to run water, Cat6, etc... Only then can I reinstall the grass and irrigation that a yard in this part of the world requires. It's been over 100 up here and smoky for the last month so it's kind of tiring to be out here digging all day.

Fun fact about Northern NV, all the mob movies where they dig a grave in the desert are bullshit. The ground here is like digging through asphalt, and there are cantaloupe-sized rocks everywhere. My GF felt sorry for me so she helped spray down the ground to keep the dust to a minimum.

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Hey this is a great thread. I just picked up a 1990 1220 with front loader. I've been searching everyday for a reasonably priced backhoe attachment. None around me. I'm In Victoria BC. Im considering just ordering one from China. There are quite a few different brands that are sold in North america that are straight out of China. Cost is around 2500$CDN shipped to Vancouver where I can pick it up. Will cost me around 6500CDN to purchase from dealer in NA.

I'm basically going to copy exactly what you've done here, though my backhoe attachment will have its own reservoir and hydraulic pump that goes onto the PTO.

Can you get me some specs on your backhoe? Appreciate your reply!
 
I'm leaning towards the bh5600. It can dig deeper then the lw5 and is much much lighter. I'd love to know what yours weighs, reach, digging depth etc. I actually used the diagram you shared at the beginning of this thread to find the closest backhoe to the original 756B
 
Hey this is a great thread. I just picked up a 1990 1220 with front loader. I've been searching everyday for a reasonably priced backhoe attachment. None around me. I'm In Victoria BC. Im considering just ordering one from China. There are quite a few different brands that are sold in North america that are straight out of China. Cost is around 2500$CDN shipped to Vancouver where I can pick it up. Will cost me around 6500CDN to purchase from dealer in NA.

I'm basically going to copy exactly what you've done here, though my backhoe attachment will have its own reservoir and hydraulic pump that goes onto the PTO.

Can you get me some specs on your backhoe? Appreciate your reply!
Why go the PTO route? If you have a loader you are 3 hydraulic lines, 3 sets of quick connects and a tee away from having hydraulics without needing to setup a separate pump and tank.

Aaron Z
 
The BH6600 is closer to size as the Bush Hog 665H. I would recommend you go that route. I've been digging trenches for my internet and plumbing for my shop in the moonscape that is Northern Nevada. The ground here is very dense and has tons of rocks, but the backhoe did great.

The PTO option is not the best way to go as the 1220 has enough power to use the backhoe to its full capacity. PTOs create more maintenance and more of an issue getting the center of rotation of the backhoe closer to the axle centerline. Your 3-pt hoe sticks out way too far from a 1220 to be useful as is (which is why you are solid mounting it).

You should have Power Beyond hydraulics already if you have a loader. Ford 1220 uses open center hydraulics so get open center hydraulic controls and a power beyond fitting for the backhoe and plumb it in-line with your loader. It's a very well-known setup.

High Pressure Line -> Loader High Pressure -> Power Beyond -> Backhoe high pressure
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Hey thanks for the reply! Missed the email, I picked up a Wallenstein GX600 yesterday for 3000$ CDN. About as good as it gets up here after searching for 3 months. I'm happy with it.

But I'm wondering if you could send me some pictures of how the subframe is mounted on your tractor? I'll be building my subframe in April! Heading off to Thailand for the month of March and forgetting about all the work that there is to do! Haha

I've noticed the weight of the backhoe has made it a hell of alot easier to steer, so obviously less weight on the front end. Have you found that the backhoe has created any issues for you being there when trying to use the loader?

Also since we have the same tractor, so you mind sending me some pictures of your hydraulic lines from the loader valve to the backhoe. How your plumber into the reservoir etc.

I really appreciate the replies!
 

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Hey thanks for the reply! Missed the email, I picked up a Wallenstein GX600 yesterday for 3000$ CDN. About as good as it gets up here after searching for 3 months. I'm happy with it.

  1. But I'm wondering if you could send me some pictures of how the subframe is mounted on your tractor? I'll be building my subframe in April! Heading off to Thailand for the month of March and forgetting about all the work that there is to do! Haha
  2. I've noticed the weight of the backhoe has made it a hell of alot easier to steer, so obviously less weight on the front end. Have you found that the backhoe has created any issues for you being there when trying to use the loader?
  3. Also since we have the same tractor, so you mind sending me some pictures of your hydraulic lines from the loader valve to the backhoe. How your plumber into the reservoir etc.

I really appreciate the replies!

I've numbered your questions for an easier response:

  1. Covered in post #3. It's much easier to see this thread on a computer
  2. The backhoe has made my tractor far more stable. Without an attachment on the back end (either a box scraper or backhoe) the 1220 is ridiculously front heavy. Once you bring that backhoe closer into the rear axle centerline the weight balance will be far better.
  3. I'll see if I can take some pictures later. There are a lot already on here. Your Power Beyond port will be labeled on your loader valve so that's a good place to start looking.
 
Ok right now I have my power beyond returning to the source. As this diagram shows.

Where do the other 2 hydraulic lines connect to? I'm assuming one gets T'd into the return line? Really appreciate the help!


I am going to read through the manual and see what I can find.
 

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Hook the PB on the loader valve to the pressure side of the backhoe. Couple the PB hose from the backhoe to the original PB hose on the loader valve (the one you just removed).

"T" the return hose to a return. There should also be a fitting on the passenger side of the drive assembly that you can screw a fitting and terminate the return there as well.
 
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