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Excavator questions

Mr Stubs

Mr Stubs

Taste my rainbow, bitches
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
101
Messages
2,032
Loc
Land of liquid sunshine
I’ll start a thread here about what my future plans are and can have you guys tell me your opinions soon.

But to help me out and maybe other searchers, how about some excavator tech? Believe me, I got lots of questions.

So I believe that for my application a midi will be my best option. Steel tracks on a machine between 12-18k.

I have search model numbers for 308, 80, and 78. What other brand model numbers are going to help me search for this size of machine?
 
Another question would be, it seems that many of the machines I’m seeing have rubber bolt on pads. Now I assume that they do as the name implies, bolt on and bolt off easy.

With that being said, will they be worth a shit being used in a dirt/forestry application? And if not, do they have any sort of resale value?
 
depends on model year. Some of the Bobcats are going to be E machines. E50 and the like.



E60 is about 13k-14k

a 444 is about the same range but older

model numbers change with the min clearance tail swing stuff too. That is nice if you will be in tight areas.

If your just going to be using a bucket it doesn't matter so much, but if you plan to run anything like a chipper make sure to get one with a pump that can push it.


I really liked the midi size. Big enough to do just about anything. Resale is going to depend on hours and if its beat to shit or not. Of course the economy taking a fall would put a lot on the market and drive prices down.
 
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Mr Stubs said:
Having the ability to run a brush head would be quite nice. Is verifying the pump size fairly straightforward? How do I figure this out if I just walk up to a machine at action?
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Well usually they can pair the head to the machine. So if your getting a newer machine and a new cutter shouldn't be a problem. Some of the older machines didnt have enough flow to run them. The cutter will require so many gallons per minute. The only way to know as far as I know is look up the machine specs.
 
slowlygettingthere said:
Well usually they can pair the head to the machine. So if your getting a newer machine and a new cutter shouldn't be a problem. Some of the older machines didnt have enough flow to run them. The cutter will require so many gallons per minute. The only way to know as far as I know is look up the machine specs.
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Ok, I know that Richie Brothers action site has good spec lists on machines.

Are all different attachments using different GPM flows or am I safe looking for machines with X amount of GPM flow and above?
 
Whatever you get make sure it has a hydraulic thumb. It blows my mind that a thumb isn't standard equipment with the option to opt out of it and not the other way around.
 
AK_F250 said:
Whatever you get make sure it has a hydraulic thumb. It blows my mind that a thumb isn't standard equipment with the option to opt out of it and not the other way around.
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I learned on a Cat 320 cl with a stiff thumb....fuck a stiff thumb or no thumb machine. My next machine was a 320 CLU with a hydraulic thumb. The zero turn and thumb made everything gravy. It also ran a hammer, pulverizer, and shear.
 
Zero turn, thumb, and blade are required. I need to be able to use this in a forestry application harvesting trees. I have to be able to pick them up easily to load log trucks, cut into firewood, use with a brush rake, etc..,
 
My thoughts on rubber tracks are I don't care for them unless it is a machine that is in a city /municipality where concrete and asphalt could be damaged. Steel tracks and the farm store for 4 -6 cow mats with some strap hooks and for crossing driveways.
 
https://www.machinerytrader.com/list...ngton&CTRY=USA

So what’s the deal with this style of dig arm on a pc78uu6? Advantages, disadvantages, novelty design?

0B1ECBD1-73F0-4741-8533-01C4A95DC2D6.png
 
Let's you offset the boom to one side of the machine. If you were digging a trench alongside a building and couldn't get the tracks to line up. Lot of extra pins and weight if it's not needed.
 
What's the average diameter of the trees?

I used a 307e and 75x link belt with a grapple quite a bit last year moving logs and brush. Also used a 303.5 for small yards. Then a 315f with a 20k lb winch and a 145x link belt with a shear head (like a feller buncher with a blade) a little also.

They are all impressive for their size. I wouldn't want anything smaller than the 307/75x machines. A ~15t machine will fit almost the same places and can do a lot more. A 307 may be able to lift the log and drag it around, but loading it on a truck is a different story. The extra reach is also infinitely better. I'm not sure if you'll see a big price difference, because a the range you're looking in is the most popular size.

As far as brands, a lot of excavators are built by a different company than painted for another. Go for a brand that has good support near you.
 
Chzbrgr said:
Let's you offset the boom to one side of the machine. If you were digging a trench alongside a building and couldn't get the tracks to line up. Lot of extra pins and weight if it's not needed.
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So I could use a machine like this, it would allow the ability to grapple a tree with a thumb and still be able to back up in tight areas.

My other option was using a pole tong hanging from the bucket.
 
If you are near Silverdale, do not recommend buying from Kitsap Tractor. Their prices are ok, but the after sales support absolutely sucks! Bought my tractor there, ended up buying my mini (U55-4) from Sound in Everett. Depending on your means would also recommend looking into a new one as Kubota will give you interest free financing, including attachments if purchased with the machine. If you are using this to make money a used one may save a little bit up front but the reliability of the new machine can more than make up for the price difference.
 
Also, fuck those rubber pads.

They were basically required on everything because of fire danger.

​​​​​​Cat pads unbolt, the link belt ones do not. Well they do, but it's the whole track pad unbolting.

I'm sure there is a resale market. I've heard rumors that they are like $80/ea new.
 
Mr Stubs said:
So I could use a machine like this, it would allow the ability to grapple a tree with a thumb and still be able to back up in tight areas.

My other option was using a pole tong hanging from the bucket.
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No, it's just more shit to wear out, stick to a traditional boom.

Tongs are pretty handy. When you get good, you can hook and unhook them without getting out.
 
sothpaw said:
If you are near Silverdale, do not recommend buying from Kitsap Tractor. Their prices are ok, but the after sales support absolutely sucks! Bought my tractor there, ended up buying my mini (U55-4) from Sound in Everett. Depending on your means would also recommend looking into a new one as Kubota will give you interest free financing, including attachments if purchased with the machine. If you are using this to make money a used one may save a little bit up front but the reliability of the new machine can more than make up for the price difference.
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Unfortunately the money that it will be making is more along the lines of savings.

Rebuilding the road? Won’t pay someone else.
Digging the septic? Won’t pay someone else.
Trenching for power? Won’t pay someone else.
Building pads? Won’t pay someone else.

Helping with pre-commercial tree thinning, rough estimate is 2k per log truck load. That’s after tax net profit.


So I will have the ability to resell the machine at a later date but a buy new price of over 100k is more than I can swing. I would rather have a 50k used machine and a 50k pole barn. Then at least I have a place to store my possessions.
 
Mr Stubs said:
So I could use a machine like this, it would allow the ability to grapple a tree with a thumb and still be able to back up in tight areas.

My other option was using a pole tong hanging from the bucket.
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It doesn't swing the boom to an angle like your thinking. It stays straight with the machine just moves side to side. Hard to describe.
 
I have a Kx-057 4R. Hydro thumb and 4 way blade. Nothing flat around here and no good gravel unless I truck it in for the main log roads. I know a 080 would not strain as much, but I like where I can get with the 057. Would be awesome with a mulching head. :smokin:
 
Mr Stubs said:
Welp, that does fuckall for me then... thanks.
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In other words the boom can rotate to dig straight along either track. If the boom doesn't rotate, you have to move the tractor to offset the hole/ditch/grave whatever. So say you want to dig around a stump. It is much easier with a movable boom instead of having to take the time to reposition the tractor. Unless you buy a huge tractor and can just dig it up without having to cut the roots.


Think of it like this. bad drawing but i'm from Alabama.

excav.jpg
 
The 2 rectangles are your tracks. The triangle is your digging area with a non movable boom. The shape above the tracks on the right is your digging area with your typical movable boom.


If your going to be working in any kind of tight area (around trees you don't want to fawk up, buildings, ditches without much clearance on both sides) I would get a movable boom. Although I liked mine when they moved at the house instead of on the boom itself. There is usually more swing that way.
 
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Mr Stubs said:
Lessens the chance of knocking the bark off of trees that won’t be going to harvest during a commercial thin.
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The digging and lifting capacity of a similar sized zero swing is dramatically less than that of a conventional machine. Basically, you'll be paying more for the convenience of not having to watch your ass. I seriously doubt that the damage a conventional machine would cause in the woods would offset the added cost of a zero swing...
 
So I have found a semi promising machine. Problem is that it has rubber tracks.

So is it economical to go from rubber to steel? Anyone done it and have any idea on cost? I was going to call the local dealer and ask them what they would charge but who knows if I get a real price or the soaker bath price...

Used rubbers have a resale value? Are they machine and model specific or more of a general generic size?
 
Mr Stubs said:
So I have found a semi promising machine. Problem is that it has rubber tracks.

So is it economical to go from rubber to steel? Anyone done it and have any idea on cost? I was going to call the local dealer and ask them what they would charge but who knows if I get a real price or the soaker bath price...

Used rubbers have a resale value? Are they machine and model specific or more of a general generic size?
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How about: "Is it even possible to simply swap out rubber for steel?"

I've never wondered about it, but I would guess there'd be more involved than literally swapping the tracks.
 
slowlygettingthere said:
In other words the boom can rotate to dig straight along either track. If the boom doesn't rotate, you have to move the tractor to offset the hole/ditch/grave whatever. So say you want to dig around a stump. It is much easier with a movable boom instead of having to take the time to reposition the tractor. Unless you buy a huge tractor and can just dig it up without having to cut the roots.


Think of it like this. bad drawing but i'm from Alabama.

Click to expand...

Well, my ego just got a huge boost. My potato-CAD skills aren't looking tea-bag right about now.:lmao:
 
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