Can I come and do subframe bushings at your house?
Examples why I shouldn’t be a auto mechanic
- Thread starter ThePanzerFuhrer
- Start date
Can I come and do subframe bushings at your house?
I can tell you that the underside of my 2008 and 2004 eurotrash specials are better than the underside of any similar year domestic or japanese car. My mom's 2014 ford escape is already going rotten.
and they're not that hard to work on
SanDiegoCJ
Non-Lemming
I grew up in Wisconsin and hated working on cars there as everything is all rusted. Turns a simple job like changing shock absorbers into a nightmare.
ThePanzerFuhrer
The Rock Breaker God
- Thread starter
- #34
sure now that I know how to do it easy. Come visit the great north woods of wi!!
I really wasn’t planning on changing this stuff but I took it to get aligned the old timer said I should replace a few parts first. Well mr overachiever decides I’m not just gonna replace a few bushings. That leads to dropping subframe which leads to the subframe bushings getting replaced.
Today I’m gonna tackle the 6 small control arm bushings in the subframe. It looks like your supposed to use a tool to squish them before pushing them in. Not sure how this is gonna work yet lol.
Last edited:
ThePanzerFuhrer
The Rock Breaker God
- Thread starter
- #35
I can tell you that the underside of my 2008 and 2004 eurotrash specials are better than the underside of any similar year domestic or japanese car. My mom's 2014 ford escape is already going rotten.
and they're not that hard to work on
I have to agree. I’m whining but in all reality it’s actually not bad at all. Our Ford and Chevy trucks of this vintage are horrible.
As to work on they are not any different than any other 2000 and newer vehicle when there is 50 lbs of shit in a 10 pound bag. The only issue I have with them is the fucking electrical connectors. Everyone is different and they are sometimes a multi step process to get them unhooked.
aczlan
Good Morning!
I think they give a bonus to whatever engineer can get the widest variety of connectors possible...
Aaron Z
TTMotorsports
Red Skull Member
There is lots of bolts on trucks that I was parting out that I don't even try to loosen. I know 99% of the time they are siezed up and I just get the cutoff wheel and get them out of the way.
ThePanzerFuhrer
The Rock Breaker God
- Thread starter
- #38
Haha your doing it wrong. I just put a impact on and tighten them up to break them off. Ain’t got no time for delicate grinding lol.
TTMotorsports
Red Skull Member
oh it's usually an exhaust or part i'm not keeping so don't care about cutting it wrong or anything.
No pictures... but I used the outriggers on my service truck to "press" leaf spring bushings into a set of used springs. Worked like a charm.
I've also used the outriggers to break beads on tires I wanted to swap out.
I've also used the outriggers to break beads on tires I wanted to swap out.
That's what a Milwaukee 1/2" impact is for. If it won't take it off it will break it off.
MuntCuffin
Upgrayedded user
Im a farm mech and pit for a 4400 series car when not in season.
I get bitched at a lot for being a "perfectionist." The latest is the lighting/wiring project on our 48 row corn planter. All the wire is in loom as it should be and leads into an organized and labeled control box. Seems fucking asinine to want wires and shit hanging off and hacked together on $1mill worth of equipment.
I get bitched at a lot for being a "perfectionist." The latest is the lighting/wiring project on our 48 row corn planter. All the wire is in loom as it should be and leads into an organized and labeled control box. Seems fucking asinine to want wires and shit hanging off and hacked together on $1mill worth of equipment.
WTF?
degenerate at large
You've peaked my interest and i can't quite connect all the dots from the pic;
so the hollow ram functions with a port-a power pump or something similar? and the outer sleeve/housing lodges against the arm/housing while the piston pulls the bushing into the seam?
Thefishguy77
Part time dumbass
No pictures... but I used the outriggers on my service truck to "press" leaf spring bushings into a set of used springs. Worked like a charm.
I've also used the outriggers to break beads on tires I wanted to swap out.
Thanks for the tip
ThePanzerFuhrer
The Rock Breaker God
- Thread starter
- #45
Yeah. This is just a normal hydraulic cylinder with a hole that runs through the middle of it. So in my picture the cylinder base is pushing against the car frame. A threaded rod has a nut and washer on the end of the cylinder. It runs through the cylinder a passes through the hole in frame through the bushing and another washer on the other end of bushing. You jack up the cylinder and it ever so effortless pulls the new bushing into place. I use a electric power pack but a hand jack is just fine.
Because it is pulling it self aligns and keeps everything nice and square. Definitely in the top 10 of a tool taking a shitty job and making it enjoyable.
If your replacing bushings on equipment this is a must have. Takes the pounding/missing/smashing if of installing the new bushings. I have a big 1 1/2” piece of all thread with a big stepped washer that fits a bunch of different size bushings.
Last edited:
TTMotorsports
Red Skull Member
I have never heard of the hollow ram but I want one now since my portapower just sits on the shelf and never gets used anymore. Can think of tons of times this would have came in handy.
A_G
Semi-Controlled rage
No pictures... but I used the outriggers on my service truck to "press" leaf spring bushings into a set of used springs. Worked like a charm.
I've also used the outriggers to break beads on tires I wanted to swap out.
ive done the same i used them to press a bearing in a flange plate before. I did use it one time to hold a bead open so i could replace the valve stem.
A few weeks ago we used a 1/4 inch rachet chain binder, a couple bits of 3/8s chain two bolts and some like 8th inch plate to press in some bushings in a semi trailer bogey assembly
Chain through the bushings plates on the back side bolt to keep the chain from going through the plate and then chain binder in the center to pull it in.
Last edited:
TTMotorsports
Red Skull Member
The sketchiest auto mechanic thing I've ever done it use a lowered S10 pickup to compress a fullsize 80's c10 coil spring and then use hose clamps to hold it compressed to get it into the truck then released the hose clamps. so sketchy but worked.
![[486]](https://data.irate4x4.com/avatars/m/0/94.jpg?1700178133){kind=avatar}
[486]
ugh, that guy again?
I smashed the front springs for my fox body at work, wrapped them in about ten wire coathangers, brought them ten miles home, then installed them and cut the wires.
anatram
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 20, 2020
- Member Number
- 624
- Messages
- 65
What model mud pump? If the roughnecks who set your lines in correctly used a little grease, a 4x4 and a hammer will knock your liners right back out into the liner wash cavity.
[486]
ugh, that guy again?
I made the mistake of cutting my springs too short so it was on the bumpstops
it looked really mean but it made an already horrific handling car into even more of a shitpile
so it got some ttb coils with the pigtails cut off now it sits high enough for winter duties
How long are you getting out of these liners? I grease them up good and they usually pop right out with the puller, now the valve seats are a different story. Our mud pump is a 5x6 gd 150gpm.
70 tp
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 25, 2020
- Member Number
- 1383
- Messages
- 104
It’s a 7.5x8 Gardner Denver. We pump our cement thru it on a regular basis also. Even with a good post wash, they are really in there. Normally we split the liners out with a torch. Last couple times we used a liner puller and they were “tight”. The puller uses a 1.5” threaded rod to crank them out. I found a hollow cyl that will take the puller rod. Should be easy now to stand back and let the air powered pump jack them out. Took a lot of the work out of it when we did the draw works on the 135.
70 tp
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 25, 2020
- Member Number
- 1383
- Messages
- 104
The valve seats are kinda fun also. I use a straight torch and cut a couple notches in the seats vertically and let them set a bit. Then hook something under or through them and know them out. The notch and heat let them shrink a bit. Use a new one to gauge how far to cut before it gets to close and you notch the housing. I’m going to try the hollow ram on them next, just have to build some big washers to hook under them.
you should have said something.
I have the fancy tool to put M3 bushings in regular tension arms.
used once.
I think you could get it done with a few hose clamps. gonna be sketchy. You have to drmel some of the M3 sleeve down so it will go tight enough.
anatram
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 20, 2020
- Member Number
- 624
- Messages
- 65
No matter what you are pumping through the liners you shouldn't have to use a torch to get them out. Are your guys greasing the liners before they set them in place? What about the paint on the backside, how are the retainer nuts? The big question is who is supplying your liners? If they are greased, they should slide out with a couple of whacks with a hammer. Even on a bad rig in the gulf that had sat idle for 18 months, getting destroyed by saltwater/air, I have never had to use a torch to bust out a set of liners. Hell even with valves and seats, I have never had an issue.
ThePanzerFuhrer
The Rock Breaker God
- Thread starter
- #59
You want to rent or sell that thing? It’s the big hose clamp looking thing?
It says it's for 330s, but it surely fit over a M3 bushing cause i did it.
The cups may be different. I assume the clampy bit will work.
If you just need the clampy bit it would cost less to ship.