Tiha
Red Skull Member
2016 Chevy equinox, 2.4 AWD 105k miles.
My daughter has had this car for 4 years. She just went and bought a Tahoe. So it is left up to me to sell this for her and get as much money as I can for her.
First the muffler was so bad I had to replace it just to be able to hear any other noises and to see better while driving. It was loud. lol
When turning sharp I hear a rumble, like old school limited slip that needs additive. Now on a test drive last night there is a really bad vibration most of the time 30-40mph. Only when accelerating and not every time. I had not driven this vehicle since the test drive when she bought it 77 k miles ago.
Wheel bearings, axle shafts all check good. Had even pulled the E-brake as I had read the linings fall off but they are good.
Changed oil in rear end. With limited slip additive, no change.
Noise is definitely from the rear end.
I am at the point where I am thinking this is the Rear differential clutch pack actuator. For those that don't know, this is bolted to the front of the rear diff basically. It has a clutch and a motor that control power to the rear wheels. There is the actuator and a module. If you change one you have to program it or change both.
That setup is $2500. So gotta be sure. Probably won't replace it but don't want to tell the buyer that is the problem if that is not the problem.
I have no idea how to troubleshoot it, but I learned some other things about the vehicle last night I did not know.
For starters, the RF tire is a 225/60 17. The other 3 tires are 225/65 17. But a mis matched tire on the front, why would that affect the rear?
If I put 4 matching tires on it, is the damage done? Or is there a good chance the noise and vibration will go away?
I don't know where she got the front tires, probably something her boyfriend at the time did. But they done screwed up.
Next, the tires on the front both have great tread, Kelly all season something, even if they are different sizes. The tires on the rear are bald Michelin something.
Could that cause it?
the left rear TPMS sensor gives the --- signal, it is dead. Does the GM AWD take tpms into account when controlling the rear diff?
I did read where as if you pull fuse #48 under the hood that will disable the AWD system and if the noise goes away then the cause is most likely the actuator or controller.
Got too late and I did not do this last night.
This is all kind of stupid I know. but getting this right is a big difference between getting her $5k or what $2k as is if it is the actuator?
Or should I put the bad muffler back on to cover the noises and say, "just needs a muffler"
Thanks for the help!
My daughter has had this car for 4 years. She just went and bought a Tahoe. So it is left up to me to sell this for her and get as much money as I can for her.
First the muffler was so bad I had to replace it just to be able to hear any other noises and to see better while driving. It was loud. lol
When turning sharp I hear a rumble, like old school limited slip that needs additive. Now on a test drive last night there is a really bad vibration most of the time 30-40mph. Only when accelerating and not every time. I had not driven this vehicle since the test drive when she bought it 77 k miles ago.
Wheel bearings, axle shafts all check good. Had even pulled the E-brake as I had read the linings fall off but they are good.
Changed oil in rear end. With limited slip additive, no change.
Noise is definitely from the rear end.
I am at the point where I am thinking this is the Rear differential clutch pack actuator. For those that don't know, this is bolted to the front of the rear diff basically. It has a clutch and a motor that control power to the rear wheels. There is the actuator and a module. If you change one you have to program it or change both.
That setup is $2500. So gotta be sure. Probably won't replace it but don't want to tell the buyer that is the problem if that is not the problem.
I have no idea how to troubleshoot it, but I learned some other things about the vehicle last night I did not know.
For starters, the RF tire is a 225/60 17. The other 3 tires are 225/65 17. But a mis matched tire on the front, why would that affect the rear?
If I put 4 matching tires on it, is the damage done? Or is there a good chance the noise and vibration will go away?
I don't know where she got the front tires, probably something her boyfriend at the time did. But they done screwed up.
Next, the tires on the front both have great tread, Kelly all season something, even if they are different sizes. The tires on the rear are bald Michelin something.
Could that cause it?
the left rear TPMS sensor gives the --- signal, it is dead. Does the GM AWD take tpms into account when controlling the rear diff?
I did read where as if you pull fuse #48 under the hood that will disable the AWD system and if the noise goes away then the cause is most likely the actuator or controller.
Got too late and I did not do this last night.
This is all kind of stupid I know. but getting this right is a big difference between getting her $5k or what $2k as is if it is the actuator?
Or should I put the bad muffler back on to cover the noises and say, "just needs a muffler"
Thanks for the help!
According to the internet it’s Fuse 48 under the hood. Let the next guy worry about it .
Btw they burn oil and if it is cold the pcv freezes and blows the rear main so badly that it will be empty in under 100 mile.