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Enclosed trailer/car hauler

Arps

Well-known member
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
165
Messages
647
Loc
NE Indiana
Im going to start shopping for a new trailer and Im looking for advice. Ive never owned one before, give me the low down. What to look for, what to avoid, what brands suck?
Is Aluminum an option? V Nose?
 
I helped my father in law buy an enclosed trailer last year. Things I learned.

V nose may be slightly easier to pull straight, but has a bigger surface area for side wind.

Check you width. The ones that look like an open car trailer with the fenders on the outside are too narrow for anything but a really small car. There is also 8' wide and 8.5' wide that look the same.

Pay attention to axle wieght. They will build a 20x8.5 with 3500 lb axles :homer: I guess they are for hauling pillows or something because the trailer itself takes up more than half the capacity. 5200 lb axle minimum, but I'd look for 7k lbs, they aren't common, but we found one. Like travel trailers, they'll often go triple 5200s over 2 7k. I don't like trippes personally.

Watch the ground clearance, some of them are super low and get damaged easily by even curbs. Not the end of the world as they are easy to lift.
 
Good info there,

What are you doing with it?

I had a 24ft and it was awesome, but dang it was big.

Now I have a 16ft x 8.5. I love it. Small, lite. I can haul/store my corvette in it. Hauled a ford escape in it. It was cheap. moving, 4 wheelers.
Is a great trailer. Rides a little rough empty compared to what the 24 ft did.

Flat nose vs, V nose. You get used to either one. Taking off you are white knuckled, paranoid. 45 minutes later you forget you have a trailer back there.
the extra space is the V nose is nice but the flat nose is a smaller trailer over all.
 
I had a 24' Haulmark back in 2001 when I was racing cars, really nice trailer but sold it and the car in 2007. I'm currently looking for a 20' aluminum trailer. I agree, pay attention to axle weight and go 5200lb minimum.
 
Picked up a Charmac 8.5x24’ 12k with a 2’ V-Nose last fall. It was the best option on the lot. The 28’ ones had the room, but 10k and empty weight wouldn’t handle the buggy and SxS. 20’ felt like it would get tight with a buggy.

I rented an enclosed to move the toolbox and such last summer. It’s a little thing, but that v-nose had a chrome cap up the center. All the headlights and shit reflecting off of it into my rear view was annoying and distracting. Mine doesn’t have the chrome cap, but the silver is noticeable occasionally.
 
I've got a 24' look enclosed I ordered new.

I ordered it with 7k axles, an extended tounge, And a re-inforced ramp door.

I read a horror story on the old site about an enclosed that bent the door right off the bat because the buyer didn't specify he was going to be using it for cars or someting like that

Longer tounge is nice for tight turns. And with the 7k axles I'm not really terribly concerned with weights.

It is a heavy trailer though.

I do really wish I had ordered an extra foot of height when I bought it though. I didn't even think about it.

I can't really fit any SUVs or trucks in there.

I did squeeze an 07 expedition in by letting all the air out of the tires and it still rubbed the roof. I've gotten a Liberty in there but an Xterra will not fit.

The height thing annoys me enough that I'm seriously considering selling it and ordering another new trailer
 
Picked up a Charmac 8.5x24’ 12k with a 2’ V-Nose last fall. It was the best option on the lot. The 28’ ones had the room, but 10k and empty weight wouldn’t handle the buggy and SxS. 20’ felt like it would get tight with a buggy.

I rented an enclosed to move the toolbox and such last summer. It’s a little thing, but that v-nose had a chrome cap up the center. All the headlights and shit reflecting off of it into my rear view was annoying and distracting. Mine doesn’t have the chrome cap, but the silver is noticeable occasionally.

My father in laws has the 2' V with the polished cap. We pulled it home at night and I noticed it right away, even as passenger. The plan was to scotch Brite it and either call I good or throw some paint on it.

We used it to move our whole house and it was pretty nice, I added e track and a few anchors. The 2' V does add room, but can be wonky with loading a bunch of squares and rectangles. I'd probably opt for a flat front if it were mine, then have more room for a generator box on the front.

One day, I'd like a ~25' gooseneck with basic living quarters in the front.
 
Arps what do you plan to haul in the enclosed and what size trailer are you thinking about? SxS weight vs typical rig weight will slightly skew any recommendations.

Here's a pretty decent thread from awhile back about enclosed goosenecks for trail rigs (wide door and tall ceilings).
 
Im just planning on taking my X3 and maybe a quad. Im thinking an 8.5x20 or so.
 
Im just planning on taking my X3 and maybe a quad. Im thinking an 8.5x20 or so.
For reference, lots of room for a 2 seater in a 24’ (maybe 1’ of wall and the small v-nose on front of the door opening.

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Axle weight is key. Recommend at least 5200# axles, but 7500# is better. Can't have too much axle on a trailer imo.

Tie downs are important. For cars and sxs, e-track is probably enough. Heavy trucks though you'll want to add something more substantial.

Lifts are super easy to do like someone else said. Plan on doing one if you take the trailer on gravel roads. Add bogey wheels too.

I love my 28' goose. Get a goose if you can. Solid as a fuckin rock.
 
OP, I'm assuming you're pulling it with a pickup? Word to the wise--people are mentioning tongue length. My first trailer was a 7'x18' open car hauler that I pulled with my pickup. One lucky accident was that it was difficult to cause damage if I jack-knifed it too far. As in, the frame of the trailer would eventually contact the truck on the tire. It was a comforting feeling, even if it was only useful a couple times. Then I got my 8-1/2' x 22' open car hauler. All was well while pulling with the pickup, although I did notice I couldn't jackknife it nearly as far because of the extra width at the front of the trailer. One day I got smart and bought a brand new RV. Guess who kissed the RV body to the trailer on day freaking 1? That's right. With the widebody tow vehicle and widebody trailer and short tongue, that MFer would make contact WHILE MOVING FORWARD. Crank the wheel to get in a gas station, regret it forever.

Anyway, I tell you this Wildcat's-a-dipshit story to explain why so many have brought up tongue length. Tongue length is more important on a wide trailer. And a wide trailer is the only enclosed you want to tie down a SXS in. If you also happen to be towing with a wide vehicle, you want a 48" or better tongue.
 
I'm kinda dumbfounded by the spread axle configuration that every race trailer seems to use. Are those always torsion axles? And can a guy get torsions with a normal non-spread setup? I have to scrub the hell out of my tires to get in the driveway, so I've always disliked the idea of spread axles. It's also why my current 14' open trailer has a single 5k axle, by the way.
 
Axle weight is key. Recommend at least 5200# axles, but 7500# is better. Can't have too much axle on a trailer imo.

Tie downs are important. For cars and sxs, e-track is probably enough. Heavy trucks though you'll want to add something more substantial.

Lifts are super easy to do like someone else said. Plan on doing one if you take the trailer on gravel roads. Add bogey wheels too.

I love my 28' goose. Get a goose if you can. Solid as a fuckin rock.

Solid as a rock and can easily sleep on the gooseneck. May be slight overkill for a single SxS though.
 
One thing I remember seeing in the old redbull trailer and probably others was raised floor on the sides to make the rig sit higher. You end up with a ton of storage underneath and the bonus is you can work on it a little easier.
 
I'm kinda dumbfounded by the spread axle configuration that every race trailer seems to use. Are those always torsion axles? And can a guy get torsions with a normal non-spread setup? I have to scrub the hell out of my tires to get in the driveway, so I've always disliked the idea of spread axles. It's also why my current 14' open trailer has a single 5k axle, by the way.
They certainly scrub with tight turns but man, do they go down the road nice. I've wondered if they are always torsion axles because a spring hanger setup couldn't handle the side loads when scrubbing. My 38' tri-axle pulls awesome.

RE the OP's original questions, if you order one and want to haul the extra length, plan on a work bench in the front. Buy it insulated and prewired and have the plugs in the front mounted at work bench height. This one had a double stack of 3/4" plywood with the SS topper. Solid enough to beat on anything.

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They certainly scrub with tight turns but man, do they go down the road nice. I've wondered if they are always torsion axles because a spring hanger setup couldn't handle the side loads when scrubbing. My 38' tri-axle pulls awesome.

RE the OP's original questions, if you order one and want to haul the extra length, plan on a work bench in the front. Buy it insulated and prewired and have the plugs in the front mounted at work bench height. This one had a double stack of 3/4" plywood with the SS topper. Solid enough to beat on anything.

misc july 07 013.jpg
Totally agree on the work bench thing, that would be a primary reason for me to go enclosed.

On the spread axle thing—I hope it’s only done on torsion axles. On leaf axles, you wouldn’t get any resistance to bucking, since they’re not independently suspended. I guess you’d still get some sway resistance, but otherwise I think it would just be for looks with leaf springs.
 
I’ve never seen a spread axle trailer that was leaf spring but that doesn’t mean they don’t exist.

While I like the concept of the smoother riding torsion axles (I have no first hand experience with these axles) I’ve never cared for how low those trailers sit to the ground for our intended purposes of off-roading. While it’s possible to lift a torsion axle trailer for additional ride height, it’s more difficult/expensive.
 
I have a 2016 Featherlite Enclosed. 8.5 x 24 - V-nose. All aluminum interior, including the floor. Not a stick of wood on it. Has 5200lb, 8-lug axles with Goodyear Marathon 235/80-16 E tires. It was close to $18k five years ago, but it's a great trailer. Weighs about 3600lbs empty.
 
I have a 2016 Featherlite Enclosed. 8.5 x 24 - V-nose. All aluminum interior, including the floor. Not a stick of wood on it. Has 5200lb, 8-lug axles with Goodyear Marathon 235/80-16 E tires. It was close to $18k five years ago, but it's a great trailer. Weighs about 3600lbs empty.
That’s a cool trailer. Any reason you went with 8 lug 5,200 pound axles vs the standard 6 lug for that’s one axle?
 
That’s a cool trailer. Any reason you went with 8 lug 5,200 pound axles vs the standard 6 lug for that’s one axle?
Now that I've got 16s on the Enclosed and 16s with 14 plys on the Crawler Hauler, looking at my flatbed buggy hauler on 6 lug 15s seems weak. But making room for the bigger tires would be way involved.
 
Now that I've got 16s on the Enclosed and 16s with 14 plys on the Crawler Hauler, looking at my flatbed buggy hauler on 6 lug 15s seems weak. But making room for the bigger tires would be way involved.
Definitely understand the bigger/better wheel and tire selection of 16’s but was just curious for the reasoning behind 8 lug 5,200 pound axles vs just going with 8 lug 7k or 8k axles.
 
That’s a cool trailer. Any reason you went with 8 lug 5,200 pound axles vs the standard 6 lug for that’s one axle?
That's how it was on the lot... Had I ordered it, would have probably preferred 6k or 7k axles.
 
That's how it was on the lot... Had I ordered it, would have probably preferred 6k or 7k axles.
Thanks for the response and makes sense about that’s how it was.

Was just too different of a setup for me not to inquire.
 
Thanks for the response and makes sense about that’s how it was.

Was just too different of a setup for me not to inquire.

The RV side door and one-piece roof are also nice features.

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Definitely an RV latch on the side door and upgrade to the keycode model. I always leave my truck keys in my trailer vs having the risk of losing them if I flop/roll. Also, unless you plan to use the side door for an ATV, opt for 3' instead of 4'. It gives you more wall space and is easier to swing open if you are parked next to someone else.

Also consider an awning. I use it all the time.
 
Definitely an RV latch on the side door and upgrade to the keycode model. I always leave my truck keys in my trailer vs having the risk of losing them if I flop/roll. Also, unless you plan to use the side door for an ATV, opt for 3' instead of 4'. It gives you more wall space and is easier to swing open if you are parked next to someone else.

Also consider an awning. I use it all the time.
Nice looking trailer. It doesn't appear to be insulated, does it sweat at all inside.
 
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