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Drywall for the ceiling of a 25'x25'?

61scout80

Anchored. Finally.
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Crestwood, KY
I have very little experience in drywalling and I'm looking for suggestions for the lid of my shop that's about 25' x 25'. I'm not sure what size sheets are going to be the easiest for a newb. I will have a panel hoist, so I can't think of many disadvantages to longer sheets.

My local Menard's stocks 1/2" in 4x8, 4x10, & 4x12. I was thinking the 4x12 would give me a few less joints to finish, but is there a downside?


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why are you sheeting it?
Do you need to?

there is storage up there you will be blocking, little work areas need all the help they can get
 
White roofing tin then drywall as the next option. Drywall is only for interior spaces in my opinion. Its too fragile for a garage/3 season room.
 
It's a shop. Why even do anything other than exposed joists?
 
It's a shop. Why even do anything other than exposed joists?

I probably should have clarified the why in that first post. My house has an oversized 2 car attached and this detached garage. It also has a basement apartment / in-law suite.

My wife and I plan to move back to the west in the next few years. This area has become the go-to for people with money who want land in a nicer area. Especially those who lived in the urban areas of Louisville and are trickling into the suburban/rural areas. Those people are generally happy with an attached garage and not much else.

When we're ready to sell this place I think this detached garage will bring money if it's finished out nicely. I want buyers to see the shop as a multi-use space instead of simply a building to store the minivan and clutter. I think buyers will be able to see a shop, "man cave", art/podcast/vlog studio, homeschool classroom, teen space, or other multiuse bonus space without giving up indoor parking and storage.

I've added a ton of recepts, lights a mini-split heat/AC system, a place to hang a TV and so on. I'll be adding cellulose insulation above whatever I end up screwing to the ceiling.

For me it's a shop. Hopefully the next owner will see it as something useful they are willing to pay more for.

The house itself is a 2500 sq. ft. cape-style log home. The main living area is a dual master 3 bed 3 bath, big kitchen with custom cabinets and a wide-open living area. The apartment is a 1 bed 1 bath, separate entry and completely remodeled since we bought the place. It's on 5 acres, has 2 fully fenced horse pastures, stables, a creek down the middle, bridge over the creek, planters, koi pond, fire pits and a bunch of other better homes and gardens type of shit.


Yes.

It's fucking heavy, fragile, needs to be painted or it will turn to shit, needs to be mudded and you have very little experience in it.

Use white roofing tin instead. /thread.

That's what I wanted to do originally, but I couldn't find examples of how the garage door opener & rails would be mounted through it without it looking terrible. Have any examples of how to get all that stuff mounted cleanly?


why are you sheeting it?
Do you need to?

there is storage up there you will be blocking, little work areas need all the help they can get

This building is unique. I'll find pics to put in another post.
The building is cantilevered over a hill. Centered on the back wall is an elevated door to a 10'x25' storage loft. Below the storage loft are the 2 stables. From that elevated loft I can get above the main shop ceiling. Standing on the loft floor the top of the joists are about eye level.

Whatever I do on the ceiling will be there to hold up cellulose insulation.


If you have framing on 24 inch centers I would use 5/8 thick sheets

16" OC, shouldn't be a problem.



White roofing tin then drywall as the next option. Drywall is only for interior spaces in my opinion. Its too fragile for a garage/3 season room.

It's insulated and conditioned space.
 
House, shop interior when we toured, stable and current bloody mess the shop is in.
 

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If you're just gonna flip it then hang the thinnest drywall you can from whatever grid of scrap wood it takes to keep it from sagging in the time it takes you to sell..
 
If you're just gonna flip it then hang the thinnest drywall you can from whatever grid of scrap wood it takes to keep it from sagging in the time it takes you to sell..

I do everything I can to prevent being a hack. I also don't consider it a flip since we're living here until we're ready to move, which is optimistically 4 to 5 years at the minimum.
 
That's what I wanted to do originally, but I couldn't find examples of how the garage door opener & rails would be mounted through it without it looking terrible. Have any examples of how to get all that stuff mounted cleanly
Mount a piece of the perforated angle to the ceiling on each side (spanning 2 trusses/joists), then run your vertical pieces down from that.


Aaron Z
 
Only downside to 4x12s is they can be a bit ungainly to handle and like to break. If you have a lift and a helper you should be fine. For taping use the blue plus 3 mud and all purposes to glue the paper to the drywall.
 
Only downside to 4x12s is they can be a bit ungainly to handle and like to break. If you have a lift and a helper you should be fine. For taping use the blue plus 3 mud and all purposes to glue the paper to the drywall.
4x12 I would think that you would need a helper

I sheet rocked the room in my rental garage by myself. Made a big 'T' out of 2x4's that was just a little too long to stand up
Put sheetrock up, jam T in there to hold it and secure it

wasn't fun but that is how I got the project done, but no way I could do that with 12's by myself
 
That's what I wanted to do originally, but I couldn't find examples of how the garage door opener & rails would be mounted through it without it looking terrible. Have any examples of how to get all that stuff mounted cleanly?
Unistrut gives tons of options to make that stuff mount "cleanly" and look total proffessional.

Whether drywall or roofing steel, do NOT notch the panels around shit like the track hangers. You must remove the track mounts and whatnot, then remount after installing full sheets (this can be done in sections, so you don't have to full remove the rail, just temporary support it on scaffolding/2x4 structure/whatever).

The hackfuck stuff happens when people try and notch around that perforated angle stuff.
 
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My old place had drywall on the ceiling of the 2-car detached and it was saggy and looked like shit. It wasn't finished and I know that didn't help. Even the attached garage had a finished ceiling with texture and all and all the joints started dropping their tape while I was there. That place was built in '82 and I'm guessing I was the first owner that used the garages for more than parking spots and leaving the doors open all the time let a lot more humidity in.

Since yours is climate controlled, you'll probably fare a whole lot better, but I'd personally go with a 3/8" or so plywood and lathe joints and hit it with white paint.

Without shopping around, HD shows 11/32" sanded yellow pine for $28/sheet. It'd run you about $600 to do 25x25. Drywall would be around $200 for the board + mud & tape and a shit load more time. I'd spring for the extra $400, hang it and paint it in a day.
 
My old place had drywall on the ceiling of the 2-car detached and it was saggy and looked like shit. It wasn't finished and I know that didn't help. Even the attached garage had a finished ceiling with texture and all and all the joints started dropping their tape while I was there.
See ceiling....

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For what you want from the building, I would do 5/8 drywall.


I am in the middle of installing white roofing metal in my wife's 30x50 dog barn. 10' sheets.

I installed 20' sheets in a guys 40x60 and while it came out real nice, it was more of a PITA than it was worth
 
OSB makes things easier to mount and painted white still gives plenty of light

Overhead mudding and taping sucks. If you insist then tape but do final coats of mud with a high nap roller and thin mud. Gives it some texture to hide screwups but not ugly like popcorn
 
The advantage of 5/8" drywall is that it is fire rated - a good option to contain things if something bad happens.
well, the heavyweight stuff is the fire resistant stuff
what you want on a ceiling is the lightweight stuff, esp on 24" centers
 
Definitely check to make sure that your ceiling members can support the additional load you're putting on them.
C'mon man. :laughing:

No matter what is up there, it can hold drywall+insulation. Have you ever seen 25 foot 2x2s freespanning a ceiling.
 
How much are you asking? :flipoff2:

At the prices places around me are selling for right now, $600k today and $1.1 by next Wednesday! :flipoff2:

You could frame in an attic door in the ceiling, might as well do it now. It will be plenty useful for storage and you can still achieve a finished look.

There is one, hard to see in pics. That ladder in the back of the shop goes to a loft over the stables. If you climb that ladder and turn 180 you have free access to the attic.

Definitely check to make sure that your ceiling members can support the additional load you're putting on them.

the members are SPF No.1 2x12's spaced 16" O.C. With an attic live load of 20 PSF and dead load of 10 PSF they calc' out. The building was built in 2000 prior to the 30% derating of SPF spans due to newer rapid growth forest products that do not have the tight grain of slower growth wood.

In engrish, The fucker is stout. :laughing:
 
Even though the website said 2x12's were stocked at my local Menard's, they aren't. I went with the 10'-0" sheets, so far it's going reasonably well. That extra 4 feet of panel would have been really sweet on the ceiling. The lift, premarking my 16" oc's while on the table and a collated screw gun make this a manageable job to do alone. It's just slow going, especially when you aren't used to working over your head. I'm enjoying the process too.

I'll need to sort out something with those home-built OSB doors. The lower one goes to the stable, the upper one to the storage loft and attic. I'm pretty sure I could wood panel over the existing and put some foam on the back to insulate them. I think they'll be a project that's going to wait until I have the drywall done.

I'm debating a wall-mounted opener now. Since I have a low ceiling already it might be nice to get that thing out of the bay....

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