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Drop Pitman Arm vs Tie Rod flip

ZSK

Well-known member
Joined
May 26, 2020
Member Number
1413
Messages
77
Loc
Gladwin, MI
I have a '97 F250HD with the leaf spring TTB D50, I did some bartering and I'm into the truck for almost nothing. Keeping with the low buck theme, I'm piecing together a front lift kit in an effort to have some cheap fun with a cheap truck. I picked up a pair of drop brackets for the beams and some mini leaf packs for about 3 1/2" of lift. I want to correct the tie rod drop angle change or at least get it back close to the stock angles.

Is it a better route to flip the tie rod ends to the top of the steering knuckle with welded inserts or to get a drop pitman arm? End costs looks very similar with either route.
 
I have a '97 F250HD with the leaf spring TTB D50, I did some bartering and I'm into the truck for almost nothing. Keeping with the low buck theme, I'm piecing together a front lift kit in an effort to have some cheap fun with a cheap truck. I picked up a pair of drop brackets for the beams and some mini leaf packs for about 3 1/2" of lift. I want to correct the tie rod drop angle change or at least get it back close to the stock angles.

Is it a better route to flip the tie rod ends to the top of the steering knuckle with welded inserts or to get a drop pitman arm? End costs looks very similar with either route.

I've already done the 1ton TR flip, and am going to do the drop pitman arm next (6+" lift).


You can get the TRs horizontal with just the TR flip; if you are accurate about 3.5" of lift.

Because that is what the flip nets you.
 
drop pit increases leverage on steering box sector bearings.. but that is easy route.

who makes ford taper bushings? GM taper is easy to find, but not the same. Just reamed my knuckles and pitman arm.
 
I've already done the 1ton TR flip, and am going to do the drop pitman arm next (6+" lift).


You can get the TRs horizontal with just the TR flip; if you are accurate about 3.5" of lift.

Because that is what the flip nets you.
arent you swapping a D60 up front? just go crossover and skip the drop pitman arm
 
drop pit increases leverage on steering box sector bearings.. but that is easy route.

who makes ford taper bushings? GM taper is easy to find, but not the same. Just reamed my knuckles and pitman arm.

I'm not sure if anyone makes the Ford taper bushing, haven't found any after a quick search. I did go back to your thread and had overlooked the reamer the first time through. I might try turning a pair on the lathe if I can't find them pre-made.
 
I'm not sure if anyone makes the Ford taper bushing, haven't found any after a quick search. I did go back to your thread and had overlooked the reamer the first time through. I might try turning a pair on the lathe if I can't find them pre-made.

FWIW;
I got the taper bushing from an EB/FSB store (forgot which one).


IIRC; these are the ones I bought:
https://shop.broncograveyard.com/Knu...uctinfo/12775/
 
I would do the tie rod flip. I had a drop pitman arm on my old Bronco, and broke the output shaft on the steering box. You are not going anywhere when your pitman arm is laying in the dirt with a piece of the output shaft in it. The 'drop' puts additional leverage on the box's output shaft.
 
I would do the tie rod flip. I had a drop pitman arm on my old Bronco, and broke the output shaft on the steering box. You are not going anywhere when your pitman arm is laying in the dirt with a piece of the output shaft in it. The 'drop' puts additional leverage on the box's output shaft.

Exactly.



When that happened to me in my F-350 ( :mad3::mad3: ); I was introduced to hydraulic-assist steering.

I plan on adding hydraulic-assist steering to my Bronco as well.
 
The thing no one has brought up yet is to make sure your tie rods will clear the leaf springs if you decide to go over the knuckle. Assuming it clears, that is the better way to go as has been mentioned; more clearance and less stress on your steering box.
 
Anyone using a drop pitman arm would be wise to do something like this

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jxU2GdWzqjo

Why is this not a thing, except on little Jeeps? It seems fairly brilliant and easy... Is it just a solution in search of a problem?

20200829_120133.jpg
 
I'm not sure if anyone makes the Ford taper bushing, haven't found any after a quick search. I did go back to your thread and had overlooked the reamer the first time through. I might try turning a pair on the lathe if I can't find them pre-made.

I used these:

https://www.skysoffroaddesign.com/pr...462c3cd0&_ss=r




Used them to do the flip on my 96 bronco, worked well. As '84 Bronco II mentioned, make sure the tierods will clear your leafs before you drill out your knuckles. Honestly, not sure theyll clear, so id def check.
 
The thing no one has brought up yet is to make sure your tie rods will clear the leaf springs if you decide to go over the knuckle. Assuming it clears, that is the better way to go as has been mentioned; more clearance and less stress on your steering box.

Thank you

I used these:

https://www.skysoffroaddesign.com/pr...462c3cd0&_ss=r




Used them to do the flip on my 96 bronco, worked well. As '84 Bronco II mentioned, make sure the tierods will clear your leafs before you drill out your knuckles. Honestly, not sure theyll clear, so id def check.

and Thank you.
 
The thing no one has brought up yet is to make sure your tie rods will clear the leaf springs if you decide to go over the knuckle. Assuming it clears, that is the better way to go as has been mentioned; more clearance and less stress on your steering box.

Check the Tie rod and draglink. My tierod cleared when I did my flip but my drag link wanted to run straight through the passenger side leaf.
 
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