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drive shaft weld on part numbers

chaplinfj60

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good morning

i am trying like hell to find part numbers and or drive shaft weld on parts for toyota 1985-1995. i have found some but not liking what i found. i use to use rock tactics but they are no longer in business as far as i can tell. i dont need long travel just factory slip will be fine. trying to get away from square drive lines
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thanks
 
Not sure if this will help, but have you tried toyodiy.com for part numbers?
Edit: I just checked, they do not show part numbers for the weld on pieces. There are part-numbers for the flange side of the ujoint. I have a few old drive shafts I’m scavaging to make a two new shafts. I have to cut all the ends off and take them to a driveshaft shop since I want my shafts balanced.
 
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I edited my post, not sure if you saw it. I could get into the site, it’s really great for all Toyota part numbers if you haven’t used it before. It also allows you to cross reference part numbers on all models.
 
Doesn’t Marlin sell old drive shafts that need rebuilding? Or it’s some other popular OffRoad outfit. Can’t recall where I’ve seen them.
 
Stealership!
They will have a #, still stock (warehouse) quite a bit of stuff.
Actual hard part will be IF it carried over to newer junk.
 
from what been finding this is my ujoint

37302-35050 & 5-1510X (1.142x2.047) the 5151x is a spicer number form i can tell​

 
Didn't the 2x4 use a different tube and cross?
Honestly never compared em...

I'm purty sure the early first gens had smaller flange bolts or flanges , I need to check my stash.
 
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This might be what your looking for?

them are it but dam they are proud of them i may switch to 1350 all the way around just for the simple availability at most parts stores. maybe. still thinking
 
You are pretty close to Des Moines. Call Inland Truck Parts. They may do mostly OTR truck stuff, but I've had them build shafts in the past, and they can get OE or OE level parts. I've only ever had the Omaha location work on my stuff, but the guy out there is super knowledgeable and never seems to be stumped for solutions. I'm certain that they can get you the components.
I will say that if you have them build the shaft, there are cheaper solutions out there. I had a front driveshaft made for my '99 Dodge 2500 V10 4 years ago. Used genuine Spicer everything and they welded, balanced, and fully assembled, ready to bolt in with new straps and bolts. Total bill was $700 something, and about $400 of that was parts, but it was yolks, slip joint, u-joints, everything. They also only build with chromoly tube as they hate anything else. I have the CAD locked in all the time, and it's as tight as the day it was put in, about 30k miles later. Happy with the peace of mind, but I thought an off-road shop could have done it cheaper.
I'd call them. Ask for the Driveline shop. Explain to them what you are trying to do, and they may give you the part numbers even if you don't ultimately buy from them as they know they are not the cheapest and most of the shop guys are hot-rod types anyway (at least that I've ran into over the years).
 
Didn't the 2x4 used a different tube and cross?
Honestly never compared em...

I'm purty sure the early first gens had smaller flange bolts or flanges , I need to check my stash.
79-83 had smaller joints and bolts. They're kinda not worth anything except to Sami guys since the stock front cv will go right into the back of a Sami with a couple adapters.
 
You are pretty close to Des Moines. Call Inland Truck Parts. They may do mostly OTR truck stuff, but I've had them build shafts in the past, and they can get OE or OE level parts. I've only ever had the Omaha location work on my stuff, but the guy out there is super knowledgeable and never seems to be stumped for solutions. I'm certain that they can get you the components.
I will say that if you have them build the shaft, there are cheaper solutions out there. I had a front driveshaft made for my '99 Dodge 2500 V10 4 years ago. Used genuine Spicer everything and they welded, balanced, and fully assembled, ready to bolt in with new straps and bolts. Total bill was $700 something, and about $400 of that was parts, but it was yolks, slip joint, u-joints, everything. They also only build with chromoly tube as they hate anything else. I have the CAD locked in all the time, and it's as tight as the day it was put in, about 30k miles later. Happy with the peace of mind, but I thought an off-road shop could have done it cheaper.
I'd call them. Ask for the Driveline shop. Explain to them what you are trying to do, and they may give you the part numbers even if you don't ultimately buy from them as they know they are not the cheapest and most of the shop guys are hot-rod types anyway (at least that I've ran into over the years)
i ac
79-83 had smaller joints and bolts. They're kinda not worth anything except to Sami guys since the stock front cv will go right into the back of a Sami with a couple adapters.

i actually work in des moines so i will give them a shout. thanks


 
if i only posted this thread last week because i was in omaha then. lol lol sure i will but not sure when i will be there next. :)

No rush, they aren't going anywhere
I know I'm going to be in Omaha before MIOBI's Toys 4 Tots. I'd most likely be going on Sunday the 10th. If you two wanted to hash out what you might want and what you might want for them, I'd be happy to be the scamazon driver:laughing: If you two want to hash this out and PM me when you figure it out I can make it happen.

I might be interested in buying a couple of drivelines myself. I have multiples of everything 'yota except driveshafts, and the loader operators at U-Pull-it are hard on them.
 
woo too cool bud. i may have talked my self into 1350 just because of there is a plethora of 1350 junk out there and the new parts are cheap too. but nothing has been decided yet. this is the part where i start to over think my ideas. HAHAHAHAH
 
woo too cool bud. i may have talked my self into 1350 just because of there is a plethora of 1350 junk out there and the new parts are cheap too. but nothing has been decided yet. this is the part where i start to over think my ideas. HAHAHAHAH
:laughing: I know what you mean. I just jerked the body off of a second-gen 4runner this morning, parting it out for my other second-gen I'm building for a family rig. After I had the body off, I spent too much time staring at it and measuring with a tape measure. I 'had' a plan for how I was going to build the 4Runner, but after 20 minutes of looking and measuring now I have other ideas.

I'm jealous of people who can formulate a plan and stick with it. Probably the ADHD:lmao:
 
so we build a drive shaft this weekend. wow is all i can say. it took a little bit of creative thinking to get the two different sizes of parts to fit inside the tubing, but all things are possible with a lathe.

the 1410 end was stupid easy, just turn it down till a press fit inside tubing and the toyota end we used a second piece of tubing welded to the toyota to get it to match the tubing. a bushing. no more slop like i had from the square shaft. YAY
thanks pitbull......

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and the next question, has anyone used this part, and or does this use the ujoint as all 1984 - 1995 toyota flange. it says it crosses over. so could i use my flange and factory ujoint and this part?

SLIP-JOINT TOYOTA Tocoma - 37302-35050
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i cant stick with a plan to save my life. its amazing sometimes that get anything in my shop done at all. lol lol

Small goals.
"Today, I will make reverse lights work. If I get that done, I will try to get those wires secured. After that it's a free for all."
4 hours later, the reverse lights work, I've found 3 more good LED floods, thought about mounting 2 of them, burned 9 boxes and 2 scraps of 2x4, drank 3 beer, found a spare gas cap for the pathfinder farm car, and organized my ammo can of electrical stuff.

I don't know why everything always takes so long.
 
Small goals.
"Today, I will make reverse lights work. If I get that done, I will try to get those wires secured. After that it's a free for all."
4 hours later, the reverse lights work, I've found 3 more good LED floods, thought about mounting 2 of them, burned 9 boxes and 2 scraps of 2x4, drank 3 beer, found a spare gas cap for the pathfinder farm car, and organized my ammo can of electrical stuff.

I don't know why everything always takes so long.
yep exactly. lolololol
 
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