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Dowl pin puller design/tech

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So it seems the snap on cg 503 slam hammer dowel pin puller i used to have isnt made/sold anymore. I really liked the design and it never failed me. Well i lost it when i walked away from a shop.

So cant seem to find another one worthy of my dollars so i want to make one useing c5 or r8 collets.


So just for starters which style collet makes the most grip?

Where can i find a generic outer sleeve/reciever/pocket/head thats not a giant billet or $150?
 
go with ER collets, they got a ton more grip than the ancient tech single angle drawbar style shit
also much easier to adapt, just buy a chinese collet chuck with a 3/4" straight shank and then adapt that to your slide hammer
 
look up the size ranges of the collet sets, they make er16, 20, 25, and 32
iirc some of those snapon ones were pretty small, so er16 might be enough and give better clearance
 
[486 said:
;n363662]https://www.ebay.com/itm/402699591364
for whatever reason mt4 ones are cheapest, just get any old m16x2 bolt to stuff in the back and weld on a 3/4-16 nut or whatever your slide hammer uses


so looking at different styles i dont see if they are a given pitch for the metric threads, any clue on what they would be?


Need 3/4x16 nf if there is any chance of finding some thing that is dirrect fit.
 
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so looking at different styles i dont see if they are a given pitch for the metric threads, any clue on what they would be?


Need 3/4x16 nf if there is any chance of finding some thing that is dirrect fit.

The back end taper determines what the thread pitch will be. There's standard thread sizes for the back end of tapers that get used with draw bars and pull studs. There is no taper I'm aware of that uses that thread but it would be a big expensive one, somewhere north of CAT40 if it exists.

If you want to cobble together old tooling you can't be afraid to break out the tap and die set. You're gonna be time and money ahead making something smaller work.
 
so looking at different styles i dont see if they are a given pitch for the metric threads, any clue on what they would be?


Need 3/4x16 nf if there is any chance of finding some thing that is dirrect fit.
when they just say "m16" or "m12" they imply the 'standard' coarse pitch of 2.0 and 1.75 respectively

3/4-16 is very unlikely as most drawbars tend to use the coarse threads for longevity. Bridgeports with R8 being an outlier using 3/8-24

Just grab whatever and weld something to it. Pre and post heat around 400 degrees in the oven will keep it from immediately snapping off in the heat affected zone.
 
so looking at different styles i dont see if they are a given pitch for the metric threads, any clue on what they would be?


Need 3/4x16 nf if there is any chance of finding some thing that is dirrect fit.

Cat 50 holders have 1" threads. Cat 40 are 5/8". I don't think you'll find anything off the shelf with 3/4".



You could go with a collet block like this and just weld a 3/4" nut on the back. I can look at mine when tonight and check....might be possibly to bore out the back and thread it for 3/4". I'd assume any dowels are not going to be long enough to poke out the back of the collet, let alone the through-hole in the block.

s-l500.jpg - Click image for larger version Name:	s-l500.jpg Views:	0 Size:	31.0 KB ID:	364076



Not sure how hard these shanks are, but you can get 3/4" straight shanks - could potentially just thread the shank and use a coupling nut to the hammer.
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Edit:

Son of a bitch...they do make a 3/4-16 threaded one for a a lathe. But for the price, I'd be more tempted to make one of the others work!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lathe-ER32-...-/291353868983

Click image for larger version Name:	s-l1600.jpg Views:	0 Size:	153.8 KB ID:	364085


Edit edit:

I think this might be your answer if ER16 is big enough. $30.


https://taigtools.com/product/er-16-adapter-for-3-4-16-spindle/
1045ER_9086.jpg
 
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Cat 50 holders have 1" threads. Cat 40 are 5/8". I don't think you'll find anything off the shelf with 3/4".



You could go with a collet block like this and just weld a 3/4" nut on the back. I can look at mine when tonight and check....might be possibly to bore out the back and thread it for 3/4". I'd assume any dowels are not going to be long enough to poke out the back of the collet, let alone the through-hole in the block.


I know. That's why I said "north of cat40"

I'm sure there's some obscure taper nobody uses anymore that you can't buy let alone buy with a collet chuck that used 3/4.
 
Ok. Thats what i was thinking.

Talked my machinest at work and he said the holder were pretty hard and tapping would prob be harder than its worth and just tigging a nut would be the easit answer. So we're all on the same page.

Thank you guys
 
Ok. Thats what i was thinking.

Talked my machinest at work and he said the holder were pretty hard and tapping would prob be harder than its worth and just tigging a nut would be the easit answer. So we're all on the same page.

Thank you guys

That last one I posted would be a direct fit.


I didn't even know I needed a dowel puller. Now I feel the need to make one, just in case. :laughing:
 
Youre right. I missed your last line.

Any chance you finding that in a er20?

Er16 onLy seems to go up to 3/8"
er20 goes up to 1/2".
 
Not cheap like that one. The one in the red case I posted is ER32....but at $100 I'd probably go back to welding a nut on the collet block.


These guys have an ER32 one for $75 with some collets.
http://www.webfootcustomcalls.com/wfcccart/chucks_and_collets/collet_chucks/beall_34-16

And another 32 in the $100 range.
https://www.amazon.com/Lathe-Woodworking-Dowel-Collet-System/dp/B07G8MNKYG?tag=91812054244-20


Can't find anything threaded in an ER20 or ER25 flavor.


For those prices, I'd probably just buy the cheapest ER 20,25 or 32 holder on ebay and weld on a nut or coupler. I'm seeing a couple 20 and 25 holders and blocks for $10 shipped.
 
Not so many lately but i really could have used it recently and and been wanting to have it again.

One of the drive systems at my work uses them and it was a fucking fight to get them out without it.

I knew what i wanted but its nfa. So homebrew and cheap and ibb/pbb pulls through again.
 
The holder and collets showed up.

Now i understand why they stop at 3/8"


Tiny parts.
Cant post a pic for some reason though
 
So it seems the snap on cg 503 slam hammer dowel pin puller i used to have isnt made/sold anymore. I really liked the design and it never failed me. Well i lost it when i walked away from a shop.

So cant seem to find another one worthy of my dollars so i want to make one useing c5 or r8 collets.


So just for starters which style collet makes the most grip?

Where can i find a generic outer sleeve/reciever/pocket/head thats not a giant billet or $150?
Morse taper collets would have the most grip as far as collets you would want to use for something like this.

You might have to have the tapered socket made or scrounge one out of an old drill press, but they will give the absolute strongest grip out of all the collet types I can think of.

C22313D29EC6C873D202CDCAC79ECB9C63C6D156139966A0CA.jpg Morse #2 collets.
 
the shallower taper does normally have more grip
but on a slide hammer the taper on the front of the ER collets clamps harder when you hit
 
the shallower taper does normally have more grip
but on a slide hammer the taper on the front of the ER collets clamps harder when you hit
Huh. yeah I didnt think of it like that.

All i know is I need to stop over tightening my 3MT collets on my mill.

Either that or get a small sledge to hit the drawbar with.
 
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