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Does a swap from a VF1A to RF1A t-case require driveshaft length change?

eacook1

Red Skull Member
ST4x4
Joined
Feb 25, 2021
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3550
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Temecula, CA
Does anyone know the length difference of these two cases.

I currently have a stock VF1A in my 93 solid axle 4Runner. If I swap to a single RF1A case in, should I expect to have to modify the length of my brand new front driveshaft?
 
Totally dependant on the truck and how much slip you have in the driveshaft and where your front axle is. Only way you will know is to do the swap and measure.
 
Totally dependant on the truck and how much slip you have in the driveshaft and where your front axle is. Only way you will know is to do the swap and measure.

I think he's wondering if the flanges are in the same spot.

I'd say the last sentence is a little ridiculous. There are other ways to know, either. Measuring up both tcases or finding someone who has done the swap.
 
I think he's wondering if the flanges are in the same spot.

I'd say the last sentence is a little ridiculous. There are other ways to know, either. Measuring up both tcases or finding someone who has done the swap.


Should be an easy thing to determine. A straight edge and a tape and 5 minutes.
 
I think he's wondering if the flanges are in the same spot

Exactly this, I don’t have an RF1A case to measure. And couldn’t find the info online.

If the flanges are in the same spot in relation to the end of the trans then I don’t need new drive shafts. If they are close then I would have to figure out if mine will work or not and how much more a t-case swap is going to cost me.
 
I think he's wondering if the flanges are in the same spot.

I'd say the last sentence is a little ridiculous. There are other ways to know, either. Measuring up both tcases or finding someone who has done the swap.
How is that ridiculous? He very well may have enough slip in the front shaft to make up the diff, especially if he has the typical long travel front Toyota SAS shaft with 9ft of slip in it. I would also be more worried about the rear shaft be ause then you can't even drive the truck to work. Dude already looked online, can't find anything just buy the case and bolt that fucker in, if $200 bucks in shaft work is grinding the project to a halt, don't go out for coffee or to eat for a month while the trucks on jackstands, then just repeat that for a few more months and do dual cases.
 
Exactly this, I don’t have an RF1A case to measure. And couldn’t find the info online.

If the flanges are in the same spot in relation to the end of the trans then I don’t need new drive shafts. If they are close then I would have to figure out if mine will work or not and how much more a t-case swap is going to cost me.

I can measure a stock case, the adapter I have is pretty buried above the belly pan, but I might be able to get an eye on it
 
How is that ridiculous? He very well may have enough slip in the front shaft to make up the diff, especially if he has the typical long travel front Toyota SAS shaft with 9ft of slip in it. I would also be more worried about the rear shaft be ause then you can't even drive the truck to work. Dude already looked online, can't find anything just buy the case and bolt that fucker in, if $200 bucks in shaft work is grinding the project to a halt, don't go out for coffee or to eat for a month while the trucks on jackstands, then just repeat that for a few more months and do dual cases.

As mentioned, someone has probably done the swap somewhere and can give advice. Or people can measure.

Spending a ton of money just to find out its different isn't the only way.

The idea was that if he has to retube both drive shafts, may as well do duals at the same time.
 
Jeez, up your Google skillz:flipoff2:

Post 19-21

 
The idea was that if he has to retube both drive shafts, may as well do duals at the same time.
Again you are spot on! Maybe I didn’t explain well enough in my original post.

Im trying to figure out all the costs between a single 4.7 case and duals and I don’t want to retube the shafts twice, it’s just a waste of money.
 
Again you are spot on! Maybe I didn’t explain well enough in my original post.

Im trying to figure out all the costs between a single 4.7 case and duals and I don’t want to retube the shafts twice, it’s just a waste of money.


Good news is that since you are using an r150, you’ll be 23 spline even in a single case. So if you later decide to go duals, you shouldn’t have to worry about swapping input shafts for the 4.7-geared case.
 
Jeez, up your Google skillz:flipoff2:

Post 19-21

Haha, yeah, I didn’t have a lot of time at work today when I posted this question, I spent too much time watching cat videos. :flipoff2:

Thanks for your effort!
 
How is that ridiculous? He very well may have enough slip in the front shaft to make up the diff, especially if he has the typical long travel front Toyota SAS shaft with 9ft of slip in it. I would also be more worried about the rear shaft be ause then you can't even drive the truck to work. Dude already looked online, can't find anything just buy the case and bolt that fucker in, if $200 bucks in shaft work is grinding the project to a halt, don't go out for coffee or to eat for a month while the trucks on jackstands, then just repeat that for a few more months and do dual cases.

Few simple measurements from the internet community should be free, and you’re saying it’s not possible to know? :shaking:
 
Last edited:
Few simple measurements from the internet community should be free, and you’re saying it’s not possible to know? :shaking:
Funny coming from the same guy that told me drive to some tweakers yard in TN off craigslist to measure a frame while I'm looking at the FSM with better measurements.

My point was just buy the case and drop it in there and it will most likely fit, stop overthinking it.
 
My point was just buy the case and drop it in there and it will most likely fit, stop overthinking it.
I just don’t have the funds right now to just drop it in there. I just spent nearly 6K on my SAS once you add on wheels and tires. Maybe these parts are cheap elsewhere but in socal people are asking 300-500 bucks for a stock RF1A. Add in everything I need to get it behind my 3.0 and it adds up. I don’t want to do driveshafts twice so that’s the reason for my original post.
 
It's a Toyota, Every part from every year is interchangeable, If its not you haven't bought enough Toyota parts yet.

Shoot for doing the duals, because your going to be there eventually, And did you do a long front slip?

EDIT

Even if you need to run what you got and stockpile parts.
 
I do have the long slip yoke on the front.

So besides wasting my time and labor, why not build a single 4.7, then switch to duals and use that case for the rear case? When I build the single 4.7 I’m not buying anything I can’t use for the duals right?
 
Funny coming from the same guy that told me drive to some tweakers yard in TN off craigslist to measure a frame while I'm looking at the FSM with better measurements.

My point was just buy the case and drop it in there and it will most likely fit, stop overthinking it.

It's not that hard to understand he doesn't want to do drive shafts 3 times. If he needed to do driveshafts, he thought he would just wait and do duals and shafts all at once.

Do you not research anything before you do it? Or do you just throw thousands of dollars out hoping for the best? :laughing:
 
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