What's new

Do machinists do this?

One of my biggest wrecks was turning a V belt groove into a air compressor pulley. It barely fit in between the ways and I was turning it on a mandrel but I didn't think about cutting the right side v belt groove would pull it off the mandrel, at what I learned later was "Way too fast" speed:lmao:

The fact that I have my face and most of my fingers always amazes me.
 
One of my biggest wrecks was turning a V belt groove into a air compressor pulley. It barely fit in between the ways and I was turning it on a mandrel but I didn't think about cutting the right side v belt groove would pull it off the mandrel, at what I learned later was "Way too fast" speed:lmao:

First time with aluminum 5"x.125 tube. My lathe has a big enough through hole to just run it through the chuck. Took way to big a cut, the chuck spun. Next thing I know this thing is twisted up, split length wise, and my tooling is blowed the fuck up.:lmao:
 
First time with aluminum 5"x.125 tube. My lathe has a big enough through hole to just run it through the chuck. Took way to big a cut, the chuck spun. Next thing I know this thing is twisted up, split length wise, and my tooling is blowed the fuck up.:lmao:
Oh fuck yeah epic fuck up there LOL
 
One of my biggest wrecks was turning a V belt groove into a air compressor pulley. It barely fit in between the ways and I was turning it on a mandrel but I didn't think about cutting the right side v belt groove would pull it off the mandrel, at what I learned later was "Way too fast" speed:lmao:
If you had turned between centers like a real man it would have had nowhere to go. :flipoff2:
 
Ok, I guess I should confess, my big crash. Years ago, at my old company I was doing something on a long pipe/tube. Like Steve300 said it went right through the through hole and stuck out about 5 feet. I was busy cutting the end by the chuck. I guess the speed was to fast and the 5 feet sticking out had to much centrifugal force on it. It folded over. Now it was a swinging pipe. I was on the safe side of the chuck, but there was a giant tool box that held all the tooling for the lathe and mill on the other side. Of course it got beat to shit and sent stuff all over the shop. It made so much racket, we had neighbors from down the street come and check on us. I took a lot of ribbing over that one. Both of my business partners were ticketed machinists. They put up sign saying “no pilots on machines”.
 
I’m gonna tag this for entertainment purposes.
 
Yea, I admit defeat. I can’t weld aluminum to save my life. I believe my tig is to blame. That’s my story anyways. The weld won’t hold water. The thing is, I machined it almost perfect. I pounded the disc in and it almost he’d water without welding. Lol. I only need one end to hold water, so I’m getting a pro to weld the other end. I also made this cap with an o-ring that fits nice. I’ll get the pro to weld that neck in also.

9EFC69F6-DDD1-4182-92F5-536A0A10837D.jpeg
Post up some information maybe we can help. I honestly thought it was arse stick welded

Machine? Tungsten? Gas? Flow rate? Filler alloy? Amperage?
 
Ok, I guess I should confess, my big crash. Years ago, at my old company I was doing something on a long pipe/tube. Like Steve300 said it went right through the through hole and stuck out about 5 feet. I was busy cutting the end by the chuck. I guess the speed was to fast and the 5 feet sticking out had to much centrifugal force on it. It folded over. Now it was a swinging pipe. I was on the safe side of the chuck, but there was a giant tool box that held all the tooling for the lathe and mill on the other side. Of course it got beat to shit and sent stuff all over the shop. It made so much racket, we had neighbors from down the street come and check on us. I took a lot of ribbing over that one. Both of my business partners were ticketed machinists. They put up sign saying “no pilots on machines”.
There was a machinist here who had a similar oops, long piece of bar stock sticking out the back, at speed bar stock got whipping, caught the wall and tipped the lathe over. Dude was okay, but scared shitless.
 
There was a machinist here who had a similar oops, long piece of bar stock sticking out the back, at speed bar stock got whipping, caught the wall and tipped the lathe over. Dude was okay, but scared shitless.
Small lathe problems. :flipoff2:

Floppy bar stock is gonna beat its way through the wall, ceiling and floor like a loose con-rod sawing an aluminum block in half before my lathe moves. :laughing:
 
Small lathe problems. :flipoff2:

Floppy bar stock is gonna beat its way through the wall, ceiling and floor like a loose con-rod sawing an aluminum block in half before my lathe moves. :laughing:
Yeah it was a cheap shit manual to support making doodads for the CNC shop. The manual room here sucks donkey balls
 
Post up some information maybe we can help. I honestly thought it was arse stick welded

Machine? Tungsten? Gas? Flow rate? Filler alloy? Amperage?

No name tig/stick welder. I would say Chinese, but actually it’s probably too old to be from China. The tungsten is that purple tip stuff that is suppose to be for steel or aluminum. I always get pure argon so I can weld either, but I have had the welding shop fill my bottle with the wrong stuff before. All three of those could be the reason.

When I welded good with aluminum, it was on my old company Miller syncrowave. But that was many years ago. I have welded with this welder decently in the past, but it’s been a few years And I had a dedicated tungsten. Even then, I don’t know if it would hold water.

Small lathe problems. :flipoff2:

Floppy bar stock is gonna beat its way through the wall, ceiling and floor like a loose con-rod sawing an aluminum block in half before my lathe moves. :laughing:

Yea, same here.

Theres a reason people mount steady rests on the back side of a headstock. Nothing is straight and when it gets to 1K rpm bad shit happens

Ive only seen that on a production CNC lathe. It could feed more material in. Neat idea. Wouldn’t be hard to do If I had more need.
 
Wouldn’t be hard to do If I had more need.

We just have an old semi drum brake with a piece of 4x4 square tubing mounted vertically from it that has a short piece of pipe welded to the top with a delrin bushing. The bushing bore is the same size as the headstock bore. Just drag it over when turning a long bar. It doesn't have to be exact just has to keep the bar from spinning out wider and wider. It has worked for many years to keep long bars from folding over and killing things/people.
 
No name tig/stick welder. I would say Chinese, but actually it’s probably too old to be from China. The tungsten is that purple tip stuff that is suppose to be for steel or aluminum. I always get pure argon so I can weld either, but I have had the welding shop fill my bottle with the wrong stuff before. All three of those could be the reason.

When I welded good with aluminum, it was on my old company Miller syncrowave. But that was many years ago. I have welded with this welder decently in the past, but it’s been a few years And I had a dedicated tungsten. Even then, I don’t know if it would hold water.
Picture of the machine then? Does it have a pedal? Does it have high frequency start? Does it have high frequency continuous?
 
Picture of the machine then? Does it have a pedal? Does it have high frequency start? Does it have high frequency continuous?
It has thumb wheel. (I like it better than pedal.) It has the high frequency continuous. I’ll get a pic tomorrow.
 
1699416651085.png
mainly looks like contamination. I doubt it is the material itself because the "professional" weld on the other end looks decent enough. I'm going with filler material, tungsten and or gas. Again, what filler are you using? If you flex a non-flex head torch it can crack internally and produce similar results.
 
1699416651085.png
mainly looks like contamination. I doubt it is the material itself because the "professional" weld on the other end looks decent enough. I'm going with filler material, tungsten and or gas. Again, what filler are you using? If you flex a non-flex head torch it can crack internally and produce similar results.
That pic is where the pro went over my weld. I don’t know what filler I’m using. The tube is good material, the plate may not be. (I can tell by how it machines.) But I think it is the tungsten or gas. I don’t have a flex head and I don’t flex it. The torch is relatively new. (1-2 years) The welder is probably 20-25.
 
I got some bad argon earlier this year. Never had it happen before and i was kicking my own ass for a while trying to work through it.

Top was everything I could manage with the bad argon. Bottom was barely even trying once I swapped the bottle out. Yes I know they both suck but you can see the difference :flipoff2:

IMG-7316.jpg
 
That's a Miller.

 
We just have an old semi drum brake with a piece of 4x4 square tubing mounted vertically from it that has a short piece of pipe welded to the top with a delrin bushing. The bushing bore is the same size as the headstock bore. Just drag it over when turning a long bar. It doesn't have to be exact just has to keep the bar from spinning out wider and wider. It has worked for many years to keep long bars from folding over and killing things/people.
At home the 30t press is next to the lathe so if I'm turning something long it runs right behind. I just drill a hole in a chunk of wood at the right height and smoosh it down in the press. Didn't plan it that way at all but it sure is handy :laughing:
 
That's a Miller.

Before I even looked at the label on it I said that in my head
 
Top Back Refresh