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Diy snow plow for k5?

WESTOF7

WESTOF7

Fueled by hate and boric acid
Joined
Aug 6, 2020
Member Number
2422
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220
Loc
Frozen Wasteland
Looking to make a plow for my k5

Are there any plans available to make one of these? Don't have any experience with truck mounted plows.

Was thinking of reciever mounting it and using the 8274 for raising/lowering then have side to side manually controlled with pins. I'd like to have the side to side powered but not sure how I'm going to do it yet.

For the actual plow I was thinking of just cutting out braces, making a frame and using a sheet of 16 maybe 14 gauge. I was thinking I could use multiple pieces of threaded rod to form the sheet to the radius of the braces.

What should I use for a cutting edge?

What should I use for blade dimensions?
 
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Find a blade for a couple hundred bucks and pin it to the axle. Very common with the toyota guys here, I have one and I'll post some pictures when I get home.
 
Literally see 5-10 plows a week for under 500 on marketplace. Why go through all the hassle of building a custom plow when you can buy a used one for probably about the same as you'll have into fabbing one? I've seen them as low as 200 for complete (claimed) working units.
Maybe your location is different then mine but the time and effort you'll have into it will be money ahead buying a used piece...
 
pin to the axle? what do share the pics.

this is not a great pic but how mine is done on my landcruiser

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chaplinfj60 said:
pin to the axle? what do share the pics.
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Some potato pics of mine from years ago. Tweak the lift frame a bit and weld shackle mounts to the axle tubes to pin the frame pivots onto. Stupid simple and they actually work better this way since the blade follows the ground being tied to the front axle instead of the frame. Since these were taken I put a 12v pump and cylinders on the frame with a chinese winch controller for angle.

And as a bonus you now have shackle mounts to tie down to the trailer :laughing:

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No fucking way would I weld plow mounts to that tin can Toyota axle.
 
I havnt pushed snow with anything but a grader. But that makes sense to me
 
Aisin said:
No fucking way would I weld plow mounts to that tin can Toyota axle.
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If the mounts are at the spring perches it's a non issue, I know plenty of guys that have been running this setup for 15+ years with no issues. Hell it probably straightens the piece of shit back out.

IMG_0092.jpeg
 
If you want diy powered angle. I think someone here mentioned have a heavy spring hold it one way with a tiny HF or whatever winch to pull it the other way.

I put a $150 utv plow on my 4runner. It's pretty cheasy and lame, but beats a shovel :laughing:
 
YotaAtieToo said:
If you want diy powered angle. I think someone here mentioned have a heavy spring hold it one way with a tiny HF or whatever winch to pull it the other way.

I put a $150 utv plow on my 4runner. It's pretty cheasy and lame, but beats a shovel :laughing:
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I remember someone at the old place rigging one up like a capstan with a couple wraps around the drum and the cable going to both sides of the blade.
 
Years ago I picked up a well used western plow for $50. Had to make brackets to mount it to the truck, but the plow and plow frame was all there. I have moved it from my ‘53 dodge crawler, to a k5 blazer, to my 80’s Ford. Been on the ford going on 15 years. Has an aftermarket bumper on it, so cut out some cross tubes and mounted the plow lift unit. 2 bolts and 2 cables and it comes off. Since the F150 has been sas’d (leaf’s), and I built it as a capable hunting rig (lockers, 35’s, winch, oba, etc) I didn’t want to hamper the off road ability by having the plow mount brackets being the lowest point on the rig.
Made a crossmember/mount out of 4x4 tubing, mounted to the front of the frame, between the spring hangers and behind the bumper. Welded tabs to the bottom that the plow frame mounts into and pinned into place with tractor pins (double shear).
The A-frame for the plow got bent on the prior truck, so rebuilt with a similar design, but without the mount brackets. Added a 6x6 square tube (might be 4x4) riser at the mount point (base of the A) and added a single mount tab to the top. Tab A in slot B, and pin it.
Attachment point is almost level with bottom of the bumper, and the plow drops in 30 seconds. Unhook the chain from lift arm, pull 2 pins, and drive away.

Mine didn’t have side to side cylinders when I bought it. Only took chasing windrows for a couple times before that needed remedied. Had a 6” cylinder (double acting) laying around, so made a mount to tie it to the A frame and the factory plow frame. Worked fine (slower than double cylinders) but pretty flawless until you hit something solid with the plow. I’m assuming plow cylinders (single acting) will bypass under a lot of force. Double will not (at least not fast enough). I hit a ridge of ice with the blade angled, with threw the truck sideways into a gate post at around 10mph. Bent the plow frame and u-shaped the 1.25” rod on the cylinder.

I guess it depends on how much you have to plow, heavy or light snow, and your overall plan for the k5, but I think you would be better off finding a used plow and making it fit your rig, then reinventing the wheel. Just make it modular.
 
Come springtime I can find <$500 plows with pumps pretty easily. At least if you start there you already have your power up/down/angles. Usually you only need a big power and ground and then 3 wires for controls. Even if you start with a big plow and cut it down I think you'd be money ahead going that way
 
Depending on how your driveway is, I'd rather have a pusher with sides than an angle plow.

Kicking it to the side can be handy though for long runs.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Depending on how your driveway is, I'd rather have a pusher with sides than an angle plow.

Kicking it to the side can be handy though for long runs.
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This is why we buy the hiniker scoop plows. Best of both worlds.

snowplows.hiniker.com

6000 Series

The ULTIMATE Parking Lot Plow Move snow more efficiently with a Hiniker trip-edge Scoop plow. The unique concave shape captures snow, providing greater capacity, less spillage, and faster, more efficient clean-up—plus the protection of a full width, three-section, high-clearance trip-edge...
snowplows.hiniker.com snowplows.hiniker.com
 
ThePanzerFuhrer said:
This is why we buy the hiniker scoop plows. Best of both worlds.

snowplows.hiniker.com

6000 Series

The ULTIMATE Parking Lot Plow Move snow more efficiently with a Hiniker trip-edge Scoop plow. The unique concave shape captures snow, providing greater capacity, less spillage, and faster, more efficient clean-up—plus the protection of a full width, three-section, high-clearance trip-edge...
snowplows.hiniker.com snowplows.hiniker.com
Click to expand...

We use boss V plows at work. They're cool and all, but so damn expensive ($14k for plow and mount :barf:) and I don't think they are all that great for what we do, mostly parking lots so they're inverted 90% of the time.

We just got a snow wolf pusher for the loader and it's pretty sweet. It's like 18' wide in a pusher mode. You can angle side to side and flip the side back if you just want to wing to the side. Again, $30k, I don't think it's worth it over a regular fixed snow pusher.
 
In

Just got my first truck plow this past spring. Western plow that only has up/down and tilt left/right. Did some work on it these past few days and ready to go. I've plowed a mega shit ton of deep stuff (4 or 5 feet) with a regular backhoe, but not much with a truck plow.

I agree with others that the po should start with a used plow and build it up.

I've often thought about building a big ass plow for my J10 on tons and 42s or even my backhoe....
 
I've got an old Western Hydraturn on my squarebody. I didn't want to have the plow mount on for summer driving and wheeling so I made my own that is easily removable. I've got 2" ID receiver tubing welded to the back side of the bumper. The mount has 2" OD tubing that slides up and in and is pinned with 1/2" bolts. It's braced back to the swaybar mount as I'm no running a front swaybar.

It is removable in 15 minutes with a floor jack.
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