DIY Rear End Jig

[Firstram]

That's why everything on this unbolts and the critical pieces are replaceable.

Reading and understanding all of the words is such a lost art. I guess analyzing photos is on the way out too

 

[arse_sidewards]

Reading and understanding all of the words is such a lost art. I guess analyzing photos is on the way out too

Are you blind or just stupid?

Sure he can remove and replace the stands or cut new aluminum blocks but anyone with more than six brain cells can see he's gonna need to do a lot of work to make his jig accommodate other axles.

 

[Firstram]

Are you blind or just stupid?

Sure he can remove and replace the stands or cut new aluminum blocks but anyone with more than six brain cells can see he's gonna need to do a lot of work to make his jig accommodate other axles.

Look Asshat, I can see and understand how difficult that would be with clapped out equipment in a basement. While reading and understanding the words and numbers I noticed that the OP, who builds 2 custom rear ends a month, cut the diameter for 3 1/2" tubes. Turning bushings to step down to 3 1/4" and 3" tubing seems pretty simple to me. If you want to use all 6 of your brain cells to make new clamps instead of bushing down, thats your business.

Go back to the first post and start over, sounding out each word as you read thru the build again. If you still don't understand I'll break out some crayons, do you have a favorite flavor?

They unbolt. I have this set up for 3", 3.25 and 3.5.

 

[Warforged]

Are you blind or just stupid?

Sure he can remove and replace the stands or cut new aluminum blocks but anyone with more than six brain cells can see he's gonna need to do a lot of work to make his jig accommodate other axles.

Just to be clear. The 4 jig risers already move left and right just by loosening the set screws. So adjustments are less than 5 min.
I use a solid bar and run it through all 4 blocks, adjust as needed, tighten down then remove the bar. All set!
As far as the aluminum blocks go, they are already done. I have 4 blocks for 3" tube, 4 blocks for 3.25 tube and 4 blocks for 3.5 tube.
I have machined pucks for the following rears:
Gm 7.5", 8.2", 8.5" (10 bolt), 8.875" (12 bolt car & truck), 9.5" (14 bolt) and 10.5" (14 bolt truck)
Ford 7.25", 7.5", 8", 8.8", 9", 9.75", 10.25 and 10.5"
Dana D30 7.2", D44 8.5", D60/61 9.75". I have not made any for the D27, D36, D40, D70 or D80. If a job comes up I will spin some up in the lathe.
All pucks work with my 1.5" x 72" or 1.5" x 60" 4140 turned, ground & polished alignment bar.
Additionally, I have pucks for floaters. The rear end under my Chevelle uses floater housing ends.
All these pucks were made as jobs came up and do not count into the original time frame building the jig.

Hope that help answer any questions about adjustability. I can do a lot with this jig. Dare I say, more than most other jigs I've seen?

 

[Firstram]

 

[arse_sidewards]

Look Asshat, I can see and understand how difficult that would be with clapped out equipment in a basement. While reading and understanding the words and numbers I noticed that the OP, who builds 2 custom rear ends a month, cut the diameter for 3 1/2" tubes. Turning bushings to step down to 3 1/4" and 3" tubing seems pretty simple to me. If you want to use all 6 of your brain cells to make new clamps instead of bushing down, thats your business.

Go back to the first post and start over, sounding out each word as you read thru the build again. If you still don't understand I'll break out some crayons, do you have a favorite flavor?

His setup is gonna make it damn near impossible to assemble an axle "wrong". But, he traded away the ability to easily and conveniently work on a wider variety of shit in order to get that.

For assembling new axles it will certainly be faster/easier to use what he built than to use v-block style stands on an I-beam but that comes at a cost of not being able to deal with as much stupid stuff.

What happens when he encounters a center section that's slightly bent? His jig isn't strong enough to be used to hold an axle back in shape while a truss gets welded on. Being able to just roll with that stuff without issue is worth something.

Just to be clear. The 4 jig risers already move left and right just by loosening the set screws. So adjustments are less than 5 min.
I use a solid bar and run it through all 4 blocks, adjust as needed, tighten down then remove the bar. All set!
As far as the aluminum blocks go, they are already done. I have 4 blocks for 3" tube, 4 blocks for 3.25 tube and 4 blocks for 3.5 tube.
I have machined pucks for the following rears:
Gm 7.5", 8.2", 8.5" (10 bolt), 8.875" (12 bolt car & truck), 9.5" (14 bolt) and 10.5" (14 bolt truck)
Ford 7.25", 7.5", 8", 8.8", 9", 9.75", 10.25 and 10.5"
Dana D30 7.2", D44 8.5", D60/61 9.75". I have not made any for the D27, D36, D40, D70 or D80. If a job comes up I will spin some up in the lathe.
All pucks work with my 1.5" x 72" or 1.5" x 60" 4140 turned, ground & polished alignment bar.
Additionally, I have pucks for floaters. The rear end under my Chevelle uses floater housing ends.
All these pucks were made as jobs came up and do not count into the original time frame building the jig.


Hope that help answer any questions about adjustability. I can do a lot with this jig. Dare I say, more than most other jigs I've seen?

I understand the premise. I figured you had a complete set of pucks and clamps. I'm sure it works great for assembling new axles quickly. I'm just giving him shit for being too stupid to understand the tradeoffs you made.

I think the clamp system is fine if you always have the material to make new clamps kicking around. It's definitely a rigidity improvement over v-block style stuff that only has lines of contact.

Sorry for the thread derail.

 

[Warforged]

For a bent rear end I have a piece of W6x16 with 2 adjustable clamps that can slide along the webbing. I use a bottle jack and heat to get them straight.
The rear end jig is for assembly not for straightening.

 

[Firstram]

Fuckin moron.

I'm just giving him shit for being too stupid to understand the tradeoffs you made.

I do understand how the quality of his work would make you feel inadequate. It's ok, human nature can be like that. You can look for ways to criticize his stand if it makes you feel better about yourself

 

[arse_sidewards]

I do understand how the quality of his work would make you feel inadequate. It's ok, human nature can be like that. You can look for ways to criticize his stand if it makes you feel better about yourself

I started off by saying that I wouldn't build one like that I'd build one off an I-beam because it's more versatile albeit slower.

You're the one who was acting like a woman and reading way to much meaning that wasn't even there into that simple statement. It wasn't even directed at you. Getting offended on others behalf over things that aren't offensive to begin with is the kind of thing liberal women do.

I wasn't even saying he did it wrong, just that I'd do it a different way. I don't have the volume to justify or the space to dedicate to a jig like he built. That should go without saying.

The rear end jig is for assembly not for straightening.

I could tell.

I figured you used your welding table for straitening.