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DIY Driveshaft Tech

Anyone done a CV driveshaft recently? Like a real CV, not a double cardan that dumbass mouth breathers think is a CV.

I'm thinking of just welding a pair of Chevy outer CV cups into some bolt flanges that fit my transfer case and axle flanges. Yeah I know they wear out quick at speed but I'm willing to make that compromise in exchange for tolerating stupid angles.
 
Helped a buddy build a shaft with a 1480 at the tcase using a twisted 30 spline stub shaft. He's ghetto and wanted square, but I did like that he sourced a flange yoke with the same pattern as the 205 flange. He had to turn the center ring on the flange, but the holes lined up.

My project has an E350 van rear axle with the flange. I'm wondering if this is the same pattern as the super duty flanges?

If so, I could find another van D60 and steal the flange for the front axle. Then just need 1410 flanges or yokes at the tcase.
 
chaplinfj60 said:
well fudge. i am basely doing that too using busted knuckle carrier bearing kit and it feels like i get one side ok the other gives me greif. i may completely start over tonight

the bearing is bolted down to the table and i am spinning the shaft. but fudge i feel like i a dog chasing his tail.

i will keep at and use a smaller hammer and more patience for sure


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You need to be hold both sides.

Install it in the car first.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
My project has an E350 van rear axle with the flange. I'm wondering if this is the same pattern as the super duty flanges?
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Yes it is.

But if you weren't lazy you'd have already known that because you'd have cross referenced the yoke.:flipoff2:
 
Bebop said:
That's what I have in my buggy.
Works great.
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Chebby GMT800 CVs or something else?

I'm only thinking Chevy because they're readily availible and proven to not be complete trash. I'm not opposed to other applications if it turns out the Chevy bell is too big to convieiently fit on flange with room outside for bolts.
 
arse_sidewards said:
Chebby GMT800 CVs or something else?

I'm only thinking Chevy because they're readily availible and proven to not be complete trash. I'm not opposed to other applications if it turns out the Chevy bell is too big to convieiently fit on flange with room outside for bolts.
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F550

I wanted big shit.
 
Heres my sloppy shafts, have built several of each like this with great results

2x2x1/4 and receiver tubing with toyota single joint ends (42*)

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Rear shafts I use 2.5 schedule 40 and toyota ends.

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Schedule 40 vs stock

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I like to put stickers on them to watch them get scratched off.

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On a similar note. Where is everyone getting their yokes and flanges? They aren't super expensive, but I believe the nv271 is 32 spline output. Any reason they won't swap onto a 205 or atlas?

Edit: did more Google'n and it looks like they're completely different style

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Driveshaft & CV Joint Components in Florida, USA | Driveshaft Parts

Driveshaft Parts has a lot of drive shaft parts in stock, including u joints, high speed cv parts and more. For high-quality drive shaft parts and CV joints. Contact us!
www.driveshaftparts.com www.driveshaftparts.com

geek out here and if they are out of stock get the part number and search the web...

i use this part of the site alot, however i dont think they have tcase flanges, but have not searched hard enough. weld yokes can be had for 20$ all day long. and often enough it gets a part number that you can take to ebay or amazon or where ever and get it with a place you have accounts all ready for so you dont have to do all that again

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last rig did a 14 bolt pinion for my front carrier bearing. cut the gear off, and built out from there. if i recall correctly 14 bolt pinion was 1.75 OD, easy find pillow block.

this buggy, didn't have a 14 bolt so had a friend turn down a couple dana 50 ttb pinions i had to 1.25 and did the same thing.

going OG and using ttb d50 shaft for the front. 1350 ends, solid shaft...

Northern drivetrain yokes and slips everywhere else.
 

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On my dedicated crawler, I built both front and rear out of 2" .375 wall. Had the machinist at work bore the end for the yokes/slip spline and it worked great. They were heavy, but I had 0 concern if that driveshaft was on a rock. Actually using the exact same front shaft in my dual purpose rig now. Rear I ponied up for a Tom Woods 1350 CV shaft due to road usage this go around.
 
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