What's new

DieselDoris 1947 CJ2a from Sweden


Well-known member
May 25, 2020
Member Number
I have copied all my posts from my build tread on Pirate, so I can continue here.

The original tread are here https://www.pirate4x4.com/threads/dieseldoris-1947-cj2a-from-sweden.1800282/

Hi, since you asked for more info here it is.

I can say that this is not the typical us Willys build, mostly parts from european cars and some parts from asian cars

My Willys when I bought it in May 2012.

It's a Willys CJ2a from 1947.
The car were 99% rustfree when i bought it, the previous owner had replaced the whole floor and the rear wheelwells.
Standard CJ2a frame with standard leafsprings front and rear.
Engine, gearbox, transfercase and axles are from a Volvo Laplander
The axles are Dana 44 with 5,38 gears, rear diff welded and front ARB locker.
Power steering from Volvo 164
Steel wheels 10*15 with almost new Super Swamper TSL-sx 31*13,5-15
Seats from Volvo C303
Warn M8000 winsch.

My first mod was to replace the seats with some highback black leader seats.

A built a 6 point cage. The Willys looks so cute and tiny with the windshield folded

Then i wheeled it alot

Old meets new

Upgraded the winch to a Warn 8274

More info and pics will come.
Last edited:
Next issue were the old drumbrakes.

I have converted to discbrakes all around, here are the specs/parts

There were already a mastercylinder and vaccumservo from SAAB 9-3 ver2 installed when i bought it.

Front brakes:
Disc: Suzuki Samurai 1,9TD
Calliper: Nissan Micra K11 front callipers.

Rear brakes:
Disc: Suzuki Samurai 1,9TD
Calliper: BMW 530 (E39) rear callipers

This combo workes great it looks up the rear wheels just before the front wheels.
I have parkingbrake on the propshaft so no cables to the rearwheels

My oldest son drives the Willys.

After the brakes were done it was time for beadlocks.

Hade a friend to cut the rings.

New rims

Welded the parts togheter

Ready welded and waiting to get painted

Painted and tire mounted

Just love wheeling it
n october 2013 I made my first competition as driver with my own car in Swedish Offroad Challenge.

Hade to put an aluminium or steel top on the cage according to the rules to have the car to pass raceinspection.
The rules say 3mm aluminium, 2mm steel if bolted or 1 mm steel if welded.
I chosed 1 mm steel because thats the lightest.

I started with a sheet with the front folded double.

Since my cage are curved in two directions i hade to cut out some pieces and weld it together again.

The finished top. I left the double folded edge form a lipp that covers the gap between the cage and the windshield so all the water will not flow down in to the seats etc.

Race ready

Some pics from the race.

We finished in 3 place in our class out of 7 that started in the class.
Skip44 said:
You said that was your first competition, coming out third your first time out must have made you feel wonderful. So do you plan on competing a lot more or just occasionally?


I were very happy with the third place.
It was my first competition as driver of my own car but I have competed with a friend for three years as his co-driver. It definitely adds alot more to the competion when you drive your own car instead of just beeing a co-driver.

The comps are a marked trail/circuit that have to be driven, along the trail there is different checkpoints for extra points, all checkpoints are voluntary, depending on the difficulty of the checkpoint they will bee scored accordingly.
To have the scores of the checkpoints we usually have to take a photo/photos with a part of the car visibly on the photo.
The trail/circuit is between 2 and 13 km long normally there is 10-50 checkpoints on one lap. Racetime between 8 and 24 hours.

The team that collects most points under the racetime is the winner.

At this comp the driver or co-driver had to touch the car and the sign on the picture. The car belongs to a friend of mine.
I had ordered new tires in September but of course they where the out of stock so I had to wait for them.

I started my the biggest project on a car I ever have tried any way.
I have no real experience in sheet metalwork but I though why not learn something new.

Started with a good over all clean up

Started to take it appart piece by piece. labeled all wiring and put all the bolts in labeled ziplock bags. It saved me alot of time in the end.

Here have I made the raise of the first fender. I have raised it 50mm. The grill moved approximately 30mm forward

Both fenders raised.

Here are pics of how I sorted the cut out for the grill. I had no problems clearing the headlights.

Miesers thread have been very helpful,thanks for the step by step instructions.
I have had christmas two times this winter

My new tires arrived to my dealer in Sweden in mid Januari, I were like a child on christmas morning before I had a chance to pick them up. When I got them they were only five weeks old from the production date.

Not that big differens

Here is the axle in stock location, I need to move the axle approximatly 2 inches to the rear and cut a little bigger arch.

This how much I will raise and widening the arch. On this picture the front axle is moved 1,5 inch forward to it's final position
I cut the wheel arc with a jigsaw with a metal blade it was very easy but the rest of the cutting and measuring wasn't that easy.

Ops it became a big hole....

I ordered new inner fenders from a local metalshop.

I welded the pieces together al the way around, so there are no sharp edge that can cut my tires.
It was a very long time since I updated here. Have a little to much to do on work.

After I welded the inside of the tub it was time to lift of the tub and flip it over to weld the underside.

After that I painted the tube and the frame.

On the rear kick up you can see the mounting plate for my rearwinch.

I have made boxes that my rear points of the cage is mounted on. in the middle of the box there is a plate standing to support the cage.

Here are we in the final stages of assambly the car.

I've got help from to friends.

Finally it starts to look like a car again.

Both the last pictures are taken the same day. One in the morrning and one in the evening.
We are on the way to a meeting/just for fun comp with friends
Some pics from the first testdrive after modification.

Problems with the bumper hitting everything first is almost gone

On the trailer home.

Everything worked very well exept that i have to move the rear axle 7mm to the rear on driverside. it's not centered in the wheel well.
Just some poser shots in the backyard.

I have made a skidplate in 3 mm steel with some reinforcement on the inside.

And mounted on the Willys
Some random pics from the summer.

Standard poser shoot

Standard versus mine

Mieser said:
How do you like the gearing with the M40 based 4spd transmission? Does the Laplander use a lower geared version than the car?

Nice job on the build. All you need to do now is lower the seats, cage, and windshield and you could be as short as a stock one :evil:
The gearing works very well with tires up to 35" If I need some speed I have to use 2:nd or 3:rd gear when offroading

Diffrences on the Laplander version and the car one is that the output shaft have bigger splince compared to the car version. Gearing is the same.

My gearing are as follows.

1:an: 3,13:1
2:an: 1,99:1
3:an: 1,36:1
4:an: 1:1
Reverse: 3,25:1

High 1.36:1
Low 3.25:1

I got tired of hitting the nut on my u-bolt for the axle all the time so I eliminated them. This is how I did it.

This solution gave me approximately 20 mm of more clearance under the leaf springs

I have also cut my hood to fit the high-line fenders. Since I had the Willys stamp in my hood I hade to save it. It wasn't an option to remove it.

I have kept the original bend on the lower edge so there is no sharp edge.
Under coming winter I will stretch the hood roughly an inch.
Yes! I was hoping you'd post up :) Need to get some more folks from the WIllys section over here too!
Last weekend of September it was time to do a competion again.

This time it was i Stockholm so we had a 420 km drive there one way.
We drove up on the Friday and the comp started at Saturday morning at 10 o'clock before that it were race inspection and some other prep.
My class basically only have two rules: max 35" tires and only single motor winches.

Race time:
saturday 10:00 to 23:00
sunday 04:00 to 10:00
from 23:00 to 04:00 o'clock we weren't allowed to touch the cars

The trail we drove were approx. 3-4 km and had 13 special-tests.
The tests were scored from 150 to 700 points and the trail 100 points.

We started of with an easy lap and took test 3,4,5,9,10 and 13.
rest of the laps we took between 4 and 8 test depending on traffic and darkness.

All cars were given a wire with an eye on that reached 1m out from the windshield frame, in the wire at was a card attached were we stamped all tests.

And now some pics

Almost ready to leave from home

Part of test 2, I'm on my way down to the right.

Midsection of test 2, it was 200 mm deeper at it's deepest:mad3: I had alot of water/mud in the tub when I came out of it.

Test 3 were a series of ledges.

On my way down to the stamp at test 9. On the tree to the left of the car you can see the stamp.

My co-driver stamping our card.

On the way out of test 9.

Making the stamp in test 10.

Test 10, winching down backwards as it was a nasty edge at the bottom.

We drove 16 of 19 hours
On the 10th lap we broke the steering arm on the axle and our race were over.

We came in third place in our class out of 7 in the class.

Class 2
Bröt 18300points
Beer Monkeys 17250points
Diesel Doris 16850points
Hagbard 13000ppoints
Skottkärra 10700points
Quagmudders 5700points
Crazy Frog 5500points

The car after we have towed it to pit.

On the way home.

More pic in this link:
Challenge 4 Botkyrka 27-28/9 2014

Overall the car have worked over our expectations by far.
We drove 10 laps on the trail and if I counted right we have done 52 tests
and that isn't to bad in a car over "60" years old
We will definitely try to do the whole serie of 5 comps next year
Mieser said:
So what worked well and what didn't? What will you be changing in the future? How did you break the steering arm?​
The most of the car works very well. I drive a lot of places were my competitors have to winch. It would be nice with softer suspension so I can drive faster on the trail but as it is now it works very well with sideslopes.

On top of my to do list:

I have to mount my rear winch most of the comps have a test were you have to winch down something steep.

All switches have to move so I can reach them with the 4-point harness on, I have planned a panel with switches under the roof on the drivers side.

Manufacture a new steering arm that will hold up

This is the most important fixes for the moment.

My steering arm is a home-built high-steer arm made by the previous owner that is welded together of 8-10 pieces of steel. One weld had cracked/broken of fatigue.

Two bonus pics of my 360 degree fairlead.

The nut have thread M60 and socket size 80mm
We had a clubmeet a couple of weeks ago and here are some pics.

Some air under the tire.

And even more.
Discovered how little
of the tire that touches the ground at 1,5 bar pressure

Visited a friend today and weight the Willys on a 4-wheel scale.

All weights are with Winch front and rear, bridgeladders, highlift and my standard kit of winch equipment (slings, snatch block, etc)

Without driver

With me in driverseat

I will move the battery from the engine compartment and place it under the passengerseat.
I were out with some friends and drove for a few hours today.

The route we took my wasn't what we had planned:shaking:

The ground was frozen with 1-2" of ice on the water and the mud, it wasn't enough to hold to drive on, but it was very hard to break to get up again:mad3:

One car length after this pic is take my left frontwheel were disappeared in the mud.

Had to use the winch to get out of that hole

I found a little present from the forrest in one of my wheels
a chunk of ice
In an earlier post I showed the tire print of my Pitbull Rocker.
Here are two pics with different pressure to compare, if someone is interested.

1,5 bar and approximately 380 kg load.

0,25 bar and approximately 380 kg load.
Yesterday evening I started the back half of my steel roof.

What I started with

Roofplate and tubing are painted with weldprimer

How it looked when I left.
Yesterday evening I finished the rear half of the roof.
And I also Welded on a loop to for the rear winchline on the cage, so I can secure the car in sideslopes etc.

Now it's just to paint it.
It hasn't happen much with the Willys

I have drilled drain holes under my winch to drain out mud and water.
It doesn't happen much with the Willys.

But I have made new frames to mount the seats on and a batteryframe.

Most of my time I have been researching future upgrades like new engine and different options for new front suspension
Finally finished the bracket for my circuit-breaker. I will make a busbar out of solid copper.

I have started my rockerguards.

I will make the footstep out of 40*3 mm tube with a 90 degree bend.
The underside of the rocker will be very similar to Meisers.

Welded together and I have welded the underside of the rocker.

Beginning of footstep.

And with a piece of steel on.

The angle iron on the inside bolts threw the floor.

When they are painted grey most people will not notice that they aren't stock

Tomorrow the will be of to sandblaster

I really hope they will hold up better for some abuse