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Dethmachinefab go fast buggy build.

Dethmachinefab said:
I've got two more to run from the bottom of the c pillar going down to the back of the y frame, two from the dash bar to the front of the y frame, and whatever needs to be done for shock towers and tie into front corners of the cab at the dash bar height.
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Understood. I think it will hold up. Granted, no FEA here, but still rocking lines and nodes.
 
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Made this steering column. I understand how to set proper distance from the seat, but what about height and angle? This is just tacked in where I felt was comfortable.
 
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Wheels are off to get new tires. Big weight savings, I should be at minimum 20lbs less per corner of unsprung weight. Old tires were 31.5" dia, new are supposed to be 29" so it will knock about 10mph off the top speed. Should run just over 100mph with the 12t front and 60t rear. Tossed on the rear brakes while it was apart.
 
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Is that on a sxs or a custom build? Looks way nicer than the golf cart body's of years ago. Damn, now I want to do a mini trophy truck with that.
 
Benny makes some nice glass, the fit and finish on those bodies is way better than regular off-road shit. My buddy has one of the first ones he did.

The Mini-Raptor, K-fab Style

Here's the pocket I added in the cases - lower corner: The other half will be a cover for this and not be pocketed out (at least I'm not thinking it w
www.minibuggy.net

View attachment 377590
 
bdkw1 said:
Benny makes some nice glass, the fit and finish on those bodies is way better than regular off-road shit. My buddy has one of the first ones he did.
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The video in that article shows how nice the glass is. The truck is painted black and is absolutely flawless. :smokin:
 
SLOWPOKE693 said:
That's on an X3 chassis.

Article about the build: These Mini Ford Raptor Pickups Are Really UTV-Based Luxury Pre-Runners


Please please please build one of these!!!!!
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bdkw1 said:
Benny makes some nice glass, the fit and finish on those bodies is way better than regular off-road shit. My buddy has one of the first ones he did.

The Mini-Raptor, K-fab Style

Here's the pocket I added in the cases - lower corner: The other half will be a cover for this and not be pocketed out (at least I'm not thinking it w
www.minibuggy.net

View attachment 377590
Click to expand...
Real nice, it wouldn't be long before i tore it all up smacking into something though. I'd absolutely build one to daily drive. Any idea what something like that weighs?
 
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New tires. Much lighter, and better grip. Got my steering shaft parts in, so that is next on the to-do list.
 
Worked on the steering a bit. Made tapered shims to level the steering rack. Rack was sitting at the rake angle and just maxed out the u-joint. Angles are much better to the steering column now.

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Are you planning on boxing in the sides of the bulkhead? I have seen racks mounted to single plates like that crack the plate from flexing. Desert Dynamics sand cars were famous for this....... Among other hacktackery......
 
Original idea was passing the bolts through both plates, with spacers in the center. Now, I can't because of the angle. May bolt through above and below it if I can't weld something. Access to the hardware is a bit tight already.
 
Auger the holes bigger and slightly oval, stick thick wall tube through both at the desired angle. Weld in and ditch the taper shims. Then box in the sides.

I always put through spacers on bulkheads to insure a flat mounting surface for the racks. I have had warped bulkheads pull on a rack hard enough to bind it up.
 
bdkw1 said:
Is that motor hydraulic clutch?
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No.

That's a great idea with the slugs for rack mounting. Pain to do now though, if I can get a car reamer in there it will be nice. The back holes going to be messy landing somewhere halfway between existing holes though. I'll see where exactly it lays out.
 
Blacksheep10 said:
Midwest guy? Have in '17? If so I likely met him through a friend at the sand
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By 17 he was in AZ, so probably not. We pretty much opposite directions, he went from OH to AZ, and I went from CA to KS at the same time.
 
Fit up two more tubes this afternoon. Running down to the y frame behind the seats. Front engine mounts will come from these tubes. I think that's it for rear tube work, besides the harness bar which will probably need to bolt in so i can pull the engine.

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I've got a weight estimate as well. Ran around the buggy with a scale.

91 lbs unsprung front corners.
105 lbs unsprung rear corners.
237lbs front chassis.
276lbs rear chassis.

Total 905lbs so far. Heavier than I want to be at this point, but not much I can change to save weight.
 
So where are you planning on putting the tank? Radiator?

Normally the beside the motor is a good place, but you kinda put tubes through there.
 
bdkw1 said:
So where are you planning on putting the tank? Radiator?

Normally the beside the motor is a good place, but you kinda put tubes through there.
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I'd like fuel up front. I should be able to make a funky shape to fit up there. Radiator can be behind the engine, or I put two one on each side. I'll be getting cores and building to fit.
 
A while back I mentioned cuting off the back end of the driveline assembly. Three reasons for this.

1st I'm limited to a 65 tooth sprocket, where I really should have a 70-72.

2nd I dislike the position and single shear tab where the links attach.

3rd its heavy and dumb.

So here is what I've mocked up so far. It lets the sprocket clear out the back.
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