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Dana 60 knuckle measurement

Superduty

Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2021
Member Number
4555
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17
I am looking for a measurement from a 2005+ Ford knuckle. I think any year from 2005-2016 will be the same. The red marks in the photo below shows the points between which I would like measured.

Thank you


20211118_181233.jpg
 
Yeah, I'm not sure we can get too exact on it for the reasons you stated.

Do you see any other potential good spots to measure? If not an eyeball with a tape measure will do.


Thank you
 
I'll give you a number with a tape measure tonight.
Top of my head says 10.5" ish.
 
I can climb under my rig later with a tape, but my measurements will probably be marginal as well. are you looking for the inside to inside measurement? out of curiosity, what are you trying to accomplish?
 
I can climb under my rig later with a tape, but my measurements will probably be marginal as well. are you looking for the inside to inside measurement? out of curiosity, what are you trying to accomplish?

Thank you for the offer, I don't think I need it anymore. I agree any measurements are marginal at best due to the lack "square" planes and the fact it is cast.

I was trying to see if a knuckle I had was tweaked in any way. A buddy of mine is coming by today and I should be able to measure the one on his truck to double check. Regardless, I no longer think the knuckle is tweaked (and there was zero reason for it to be tweaked - not on a hardcore crawler).

When I installed it, I had the upper caster bushing seated all the way against the top of the C. I think the proper way is to let that caster bushing sit in the C and let it find its own resting spot once you torque the bottom, then top, then bottom. Which in the end sometimes results in that caster bushing not being fully seated. Maybe someone can confirm that process? I looked at as many pics I could find online and most show that caster bushing not fully flush against the top of the C.
 
wow. ok. I have that exact problem currently. got my diff from the wreckers. my driver side castor bushing has always sat "high" . I've tried to re seat it multiple times to no avail. and I've done balljoints twice now with no change to that side. the pass side sits nice and flush like all others I've seen. I've even bought a new castor bushing from ford to see if I had a bad one. nope...
 
wow. ok. I have that exact problem currently. got my diff from the wreckers. my driver side castor bushing has always sat "high" . I've tried to re seat it multiple times to no avail. and I've done balljoints twice now with no change to that side. the pass side sits nice and flush like all others I've seen. I've even bought a new castor bushing from ford to see if I had a bad one. nope...

I have spent more hours searching the forums than I care to admit for a good answer to this and haven't found any solid answers. Someone must have discussed this on a forum before, I am just not finding it.

Do your knuckles become difficult to turn if you try and set the driver's side bushing flush? I also have some new bushings on the way in an abundance of caution, but I am pretty sure you have to let the bushing simply settle where it wants. I followed the Spicer BJ instructions exactly.
 
I don't notice any difference in turning effort. just never been able to match it to the pass side. I've tried to hammer it down multiple times, and only managed to brake off a part of the bushing. I'm almost considering getting a "new" axle because it pisses me off that much.
 
You’re not suppose to smash the collar down. That’s a good way to cause premature ball joint failure and the shitty steering due to binding ball joints.

Lube the collar on the outside diameter only. Clean the bore as needed until the collar can slide all the way in freely.
Install knuckle & put nuts on both ball joints.
Torque ball joint nuts per service manual, usually start at bottom at like 75 ft-lb then about same on top & keep on tightening as needed to install cotton pint then about 150 ft-lb on bottom.

Jeep’s upper ball joints is telescoping type, to compensate for variety in housing to housing and knuckle to knuckle in production vehicles. None of Dana 60’s ball joints are telescoping, instead they use the collar for that.


 
I've tried nearly everything to get that one side to seat properly. didn't start out hammering on it. but after multiple attempts, and a few ball joint sets, I've gotten frustrated and heavy handed.
 
TrailTamer are you saying that the collar must be all the way seated?



Ball Joint Torque sequence:

Bottom nut 35 ft lbs
Top nut 70 ft lbs, then advance it to the next cotter pin slot
Bottom nut 140-160 ft lbs
 
FWIW, In this VIDEO from CJC Offroad the camber bushing they are removing and then the new Carli bushing they install are not seated all the way.

And the photo in post #2 of THIS THREAD is supposedly a stock camber bushing that is also not seated. There is also the FSM instructions in that thread and there is no mention one way or the other about fully seating the bushing.
 
Last edited:
No. Torque ball joints’ nut to spec determine where the collar will be.

Force the collar to go all the way in will prevent lower ball joint’s taper from seating.
 
Install instruction and the video in this link explain it well

 
TrailTamer thanks for the video. Very informative and confirms the bushing need not seat all the way.

EMF method is very similar to the Carli method in the video i posted, but for the torque specs.

I would note that the torque sequence for the EMF joints is different than OEM type joints.
 
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