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D60 Spindle Blocks

TTMotorsports

Red Skull Member
Joined
Jan 7, 2021
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3315
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Lucerne Valley, CA
OK So many years ago I know ruffstuff was selling full float axle ends to run a D60 front spindle and hub. Well I'm building a TTB Front end and am contemplating designing some new knuckles for that to get better brakes AND steering arm location for my steering geometry. So who makes a D60 5 Bolt Ford Spindle Snout Blocks now days OR should I just get a couple machined to the exact dimensions and such I would want to design them for.

Thanks.
 
There was a thread a while ago somewhere. No one makes them that I’m aware of. I have an idea on a project about using them. Branik made them at some point but I’ve never actually been able to get anyone to take my money there.
 
Yeah I sold a set about a year ago I had new never used since my build plans changed and now I wish I didn't since i'd use them.
 
Nice front range makes my long travel snouts blocks so ill hit them up to make some that are my design. Totally forgot they have other stuff on their website
 
Why not just use a TTB D50 spindle?

The '05+ UB cups that various shops sell would be a pretty good base to build a knuckle around and save a fair amount of time.
 
The weight would be on the spindle bolts w/D50 vs splindle bolts and spindle snout w/D60

1626180070582.png
 
Chief Rocka said:
Can you explain why the difference is irrelevant?
Click to expand...
:shaking:

Because he can just weld the caliper mount tabs onto the knuckle and get the same depth of bore engagement between the knuckle and spindle as a typical Ford D60.

Or he can bolt the caliper bracket outside like you'd see on some GM axles and get the same depth of engagement between the knuckle and spindle as a typical Ford D60
 
I redrilled my TTB spindles to Chevy pattern. With 1/4" caliper bracket behind them, they index to pretty much right where they need to be on a KP D60 front, still have enough engagement to the knuckle to be good, and I like the pick-n-pull pricing.
 
I have a D70 rear and it is nice to have the same bearings and spindle lock nuts front and rear. I already have a D50 TTB front end so I'll probably make new knuckles with that since attempting to weld a structural steering arms and new brake caliper mounts onto the cast knuckle isn't gonna happen.
 
OK so when I get the spindle block machined should I do it like factory with the center recessed into the knuckle to hold the load and the studs just hold it onto the knuckle. OR should I machine down the OD of the spindle to be perfectly round and have that as well as the center recessed into the knuckle. This is going onto a prerunner truck with 40" tires and a turbo 6.0L with some power.
 
I don't see the material at the OD of the bolt flange helping much. Imagine how much the spindle could flex before that area starts doing much of anything to resist movement.

I'd drill it for twice as many bolts/studs and run grade 10s.
 
I'd have unit bearing blocks made instead, skip the inferior spindles altogether and keep those two front locking nuts as spares for your rear axle. I've seen and heard of bent spindles but never a bent unit bearing. I'd rather carry a spare slip on rotor and a unit bearing as opposed to a spindle, hub, rotor, studs, bearings, seal ect.
 
I'd like to go unit bearing but I don't feel the extra cost to buy those, new locking hubs, new stub shafts etc are worth it compared to having a spare setup in my pit box at camp and to check it as part of my prep.
 
Does anyone have an exact dimensions for the Ford 5 bolt Dana 50/60 spindle bolt pattern? Like spindle to knuckle bore and bolt locations. I know they are a 7/16" bolt so I would just have the spindle setup for 10 studs to be installed.
 
TTMotorsports said:
Does anyone have an exact dimensions for the Ford 5 bolt Dana 50/60 spindle bolt pattern? Like spindle to knuckle bore and bolt locations. I know they are a 7/16" bolt so I would just have the spindle setup for 10 studs to be installed.
Click to expand...
IIRC it's not a radially symmetrical pattern (because god forbid some mechanic install it with the keyway pointed somewhere other than up). I would just stick a spare knuckle without studs on the spindle, rotate it so its holes are about half way between the spindle holes and then transfer punch it onto the back side of the spindle flange.
 
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So bringing this back from the dead. What unit bearings can I run to keep the stock length ford outer stub shafts and looking hubs. Thinking of going that route for simplicity sake and availability of snout blocks.
 
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