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D60 outer axle seal?

Honky Lips

Welcome to the shit show.
Joined
May 21, 2020
Member Number
876
Messages
371
Loc
Omaha, Ne “ish”
So my 60 is leaking out the pass side tube. In an effort to avoid pulling the diff, is there an oil seal for the outer tube to stop the leak?
 
Otherwise, seal-z-it are the seals you want for the outer ends.

Ruffstuff, wfo any on the 4x site that supply axle building stuff should have them.
 
I used a chimney brush and rod attached to a drill to clean tubes and brake cleaner of course. Sealzit worked well along with good inner seal. When I switched to RCV the tubes looked as good ever.
 
You have to pull the shaft to install the seal anyway so quit being a little bitch and spend the extra 5min it takes to chimney brush the damn thing and blast it out with air.
 
Frig me learn something new everyday wish I had of seen these seals it seals when I just built my 60 last year.
 
Thanks for nothing guys. I wanna be lazy

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So, bump.

My front Ferd 60 is torn down. To Seals-it or not?

$45 each : Economy Axle Seal – Seals-It

Innernet says outer seals just keep crap in. Do they?



Fernco donuts are $10, and available by the 1/32nd.
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Looks like three happy Seals-it customers...
 
So, bump.

My front Ferd 60 is torn down. To Seals-it or not?

$45 each : Economy Axle Seal – Seals-It

Innernet says outer seals just keep crap in. Do they?



Fernco donuts are $10, and available by the 1/32nd.
do-donuts-main.jpg


Looks like three happy Seals-it customers...

Seems like if they keep crap in they also keep crap out... so if you were to clean your tubes thoroughly then they would only be able to keep oil in and crap out. Who knows though, maybe I'm wrong and they let crap in and keep it in:confused:
 
Disagree, I've had zero issues with seals-it outer seals. Ran them for 2+ years now on a Dana 60. They're almost must here in the northeast rust belt unless you like rusty shafts and muddy rust water in your tubes.

Problem for the OP wanting to be lazy, they actually require more attention than just inners. Your inners could still leak, filling the tubes and starving the diff of oil and one would never know because the outers stop the leak there. So I find myself checking diff levels more often than I did without the outer seals.
 
Front shafts move around in the tube with turning and rotation. The outer seals don't work all that well way out on the end of the tube where the movement of the shaft is the greatest
 
Front shafts move around in the tube with turning and rotation. The outer seals don't work all that well way out on the end of the tube where the movement of the shaft is the greatest
I agree with your theory but companies have solved this issue like Marlins eco-seal for Toyotas. And considering most Toyota axles are bent that little $15 seal does wonders.

My plan was to try and use a seal similar to the eco-seal on the front Dana 60 IF the seals-it gave me issues. Haven't had an issue YET so never went down that path. I think the seals-it being long helps with the shaft rotation keeping the seal from wearing out. Granted my 2 years with them only equates to 300 miles or so of off-road only. The seals-it seals may not last anywhere near as long in something seeing street use or higher speeds than my crawler.

Edit: I installed these solely to keep stuff out of the tube, I never had intentions of this being a backup to the inner. Just trying to keep my inner tubes and shaft as rust free as possible.
 
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Had them in 2 rigs for multiple years and they work fine. They aren't a replacement for inner seals but they do keep shit out the tubes which leads to inner seals leaking
 
What happens if you break an inner shaft towards the splined end? Them seals able to be removed on the tail so it's not a total pita fishing out a broken shaft?
 
I'm not sure it would be a problem getting the shaft out with a strong magnet and the seal in place. The splined portion is typically smaller than the rest of the shaft if it broke at the splines.

Maybe it's just me but most inner failures I've seen the yoke break's or it breaks just behind the yoke.
 
Seals-it seals work awesome, wtf are you guys talking about? A $15,000 dollar spidertrax steer axle uses their own version of expandable seal carrier. Every comp buggy and Ultra4 car I know of is using that seal to keep $90 a gallon gear oil inside $5,000 dollar third members.

The only reason I could see that what the OP wants to do wouldn’t work. Is lack of prep. The seal (any seal) needs a polished surface to ride on. If you cleaned the housing ID really good so the O-rings sealed good. Cleaned the axle down to bare metal all the way from the splines to where the new seal is going to ride. Then polish the diameter of the shaft where the seal is going to ride. The expandable seal will totally work. My little brother’s Toyota has seals-it seals out at the ends of the tube to keep the gear oil out of the grease in the knuckle balls.
 
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