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pennsylvaniaboy

pennsylvaniaboy

make fullsizes great again
Joined
Jun 27, 2020
Member Number
2192
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1,060
Has anyone used a custom switch panel builder, like what 12voltguy used to do on the old site. Either toggle, carling, etc. Cant find much online that isnt boat related.
 
Seems a lot of people are going to stuff like this:

Products - Switch-Pros

store.switchpros.com store.switchpros.com

There's another really common one now....I think it's cheaper but can't recall the name right now.
 
yeh, there is the auxbeam too. torn on that cause i want switches that aren't thru a touch board..
 
pennsylvaniaboy said:
yeh, there is the auxbeam too. torn on that cause i want switches that aren't thru a touch board..
Click to expand...
Yeah...fan of analog myself....but the penalty is size/weight. I was thinking of going the touch route to simplify in a JHF style 4WS crawler to keep weight down, especially with a very spartan buggy with minimal 'dash'....pretty much just a trans tunnel 'doghouse' and no real firewall for visibility.
 
Big fan of old school K4 water proof switches, although I did recently go from old school relays to the MSD solid state block.
 
Those are tempting and seem so simple, maybe that is the right call.
 
Sean said:
Yeah...fan of analog myself....but the penalty is size/weight. I was thinking of going the touch route to simplify in a JHF style 4WS crawler to keep weight down, especially with a very spartan buggy with minimal 'dash'....pretty much just a trans tunnel 'doghouse' and no real firewall for visibility.
Click to expand...
same here. and they make some sweet mounts that are real hand for like a PSC column. I think I would still keep my fans and ignition analog. Beyond that, everything else is semi non essential.
 
From personal experience, I’m with JohnnyJ. I have a switch panel ( can’t recall name and will snap a pic in a few minutes) that is connected to the relay panel via a ribbon cable. I got a nick in the cable even though it was in a loom. EVERYTHING went dead. All 8 items on the switch were dead. Ignition, starter, lights. I had to hotwire it to get back to the trailer.

I plan to rewire old school. In the meantime I carry a prewired on / off and starter switch - just in case.

IMG_0284.jpeg
 
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white-rhino said:
From personal experience, I’m with JohnnyJ. I have a switch panel ( can’t recall name and will snap a pic in a few minutes) that is connected to the relay panel via a ribbon cable. I got a nick in the cable even though it was in a loom. EVERYTHING went dead. All 8 items on the switch were dead. Ignition, starter, lights. I had to hotwire it to get back to the trailer.

I plan to rewire old school. In the meantime I carry a prewired on / off and starter switch - just in case.

IMG_0284.jpeg
Click to expand...
That's been one of my fears. It's one of the reasons I went with 2x 8-slot switch pros instead of one big 12-slot. Everything critical to the vehicle is on one switch pro, so if something shits itself I can just swap plugs around and not be stranded. I've also heard of units melting. Though personally very happy with the switch pros and never had any issues.
 
This is specific to a Jeep JK setup, but the bulk of information on building it would work for any vehicle really:



That guy has a series on the setup, so make sure to go to YouTube for the rest if it interests you.

Good luck with what ever you choose... :beer:
 
i wish aux beam had a smaller relay board/module

i also wish someone offered a more univeral/stand alone aux beam switch panel that i could combine with the MSD solid state relay
 
What is your usage/application?

There are a lot of nice setups available for $$$ but probably would be more at home in something that isn't a DD.

Personally I think stuff like an SPOD are trendy and for people who can't wire anything themselves.

You can get a bank of toggle switches and relays for pretty cheap that do the same thing. How much is your budget?

Personally I think anything past a set of fog lights you cross a bridge where you need to add a dedicated fused tap on the battery that goes to another larger fuse/relay panel. That needs switches whether hot all the time or ignition switched. That harness needs to get in the cab somehow. Gotta lay the infrastructure early on otherwise you end up with taps on taps on taps spaghetti.

That uber cool stuff is great but I'm more of a simple pimple kind of person.
 
I have a 12volt guy panel in my buggy, zero issue's to date. Everything is run though it and a Eaton fuse relay box. Check that, I had a wire between a switch and CB get toasty when a CB popped and I reset it a few times before I realized the CB was hot.

As much as I hate having a giant solid state controller they are appealing. Compact size and fairly simple goes a long way.
 
I've always built my own with Carling switches and breakers, went with an SPOD BantamX this time and love it. so much cleaner and easier to work with. I did use a Carling On-Off-On (Momentary) for my winch, but everything else went through the SPOD.
 
Skinny said:
Personally I think stuff like an SPOD are trendy and for people who can't wire anything themselves.
Click to expand...

A DIY MOSFET style sPOD is beyond most people. If you have examples, post 'em up.

Their big drawback is the price, but they sure are nice.


94toytruck said:
Compact size and fairly simple goes a long way.
Click to expand...

Most definitely!
 
white-rhino said:
From personal experience, I’m with JohnnyJ. I have a switch panel ( can’t recall name and will snap a pic in a few minutes) that is connected to the relay panel via a ribbon cable. I got a nick in the cable even though it was in a loom. EVERYTHING went dead. All 8 items on the switch were dead. Ignition, starter, lights. I had to hotwire it to get back to the trailer.

I plan to rewire old school. In the meantime I carry a prewired on / off and starter switch - just in case.

IMG_0284.jpeg
Click to expand...
This is a shitbox of a switch panel.
And where is the puke emoji when you need it?
 
ANGRYBLACK said:
Link> Racewire Solutions

He can make a custom rocker switch panel.
rs=w:600,h:300,cg:true.jpg

You need to call him or Email your Specific's and he can build you a relay based PDM as well. Uses GXL wire IIRC. I have a few of his PDU's and they are freakin time savers from making your own.
rs=w:600,h:300,cg:true.jpg
Click to expand...
I have looked at his column mount and multi function switch too.

RWS Turn Signal Combination Switch

this is a setup that has my eye too
PDS Multi-Function Turn Signal, Horn & Headlight Switch



multi switch.jpg


paired with a more basic set of ign/ switches

1731070758009.png
 
snivilous said:
That's been one of my fears. It's one of the reasons I went with 2x 8-slot switch pros instead of one big 12-slot. Everything critical to the vehicle is on one switch pro, so if something shits itself I can just swap plugs around and not be stranded. I've also heard of units melting. Though personally very happy with the switch pros and never had any issues.
Click to expand...
I have done that on the latest car I wired. Not necessarily for redundancy purposes, but it was a nice added bonus.
The Switch-Pros do NOT melt on their own. This is 100% a result of overloading the unit with transient current over the capabilities of the MOSFETs.
Which is another reason why you'd want the RCR12 over the 9100.
 
Skinny said:
Personally I think stuff like an SPOD are trendy and for people who can't wire anything themselves.
Click to expand...
Explain why every single motorsport application is going to a PDM and replacing analog switches with electronics?
Coming from the side of the builder, this makes the electrical system simpler while more versatile and powerful at the same time.
Short of parts cost and complexity, there are no drawbacks to this type of system.
Cost is usually mitigated by the fact that you are saving a lot in labor if you are paying someome to wire your car.

Skinny said:
Personally I think anything past a set of fog lights you cross a bridge where you need to add a dedicated fused tap on the battery that goes to another larger fuse/relay panel. That needs switches whether hot all the time or ignition switched.
Click to expand...
That method usually ends up with very big and heavy harnesses that are full of redundant wires. Adds time, cost (minimal) and weight.
Not saying it doesn't work. It is just some of the drawbacks.

Big4x4ride said:
I've always built my own with Carling switches and breakers, went with an SPOD BantamX this time and love it. so much cleaner and easier to work with. I did use a Carling On-Off-On (Momentary) for my winch, but everything else went through the SPOD.
Click to expand...
People who have actually done it usually say this.
It's very nice.

Arickvan said:
i wish aux beam had a smaller relay board/module

i also wish someone offered a more univeral/stand alone aux beam switch panel that i could combine with the MSD solid state relay
Click to expand...
It is called a Switch-Pros RCR12
 
Anyone familiar with Marlin Technologies Can Buss modules?

M-Flex CAN Bridge, Color Displays, CAN I/O Controllers | Marlin

M-Flex is our standard electronic control devices that are a quick-to-market and provide flexibility in terms of software and hardware customization.
www.marlintech.com www.marlintech.com

They built the systems for some AG equipment I used to service, good stuff very robust IP67 on all their stuff.
They are selling their M-Flex line of gear on Digikey and it seems like they provide the configuration tool as well.

The possibility to split the I/O modules on the chassis seems like a awesome feature.
Have on in the front under the hood, one in the cab, or one in the rear and one in the front.
Stuff like that.
This will be a reasonably complicated system instead of plug and play but if someone is inclined to go down that road this might be a useful system and decently economical.


The 8 key display is $255
1731071515217.png


The 4 I/O modules are $314 each
1731071581938.png


The 8 I/O modules are $450
1731071698797.png
 
CarterKraft said:
Anyone familiar with Marlin Technologies Can Buss modules?

M-Flex CAN Bridge, Color Displays, CAN I/O Controllers | Marlin

M-Flex is our standard electronic control devices that are a quick-to-market and provide flexibility in terms of software and hardware customization.
www.marlintech.com www.marlintech.com

They built the systems for some AG equipment I used to service, good stuff very robust IP67 on all their stuff.
They are selling their M-Flex line of gear on Digikey and it seems like they provide the configuration tool as well.

The possibility to split the I/O modules on the chassis seems like a awesome feature.
Have on in the front under the hood, one in the cab, or one in the rear and one in the front.
Stuff like that.
This will be a reasonably complicated system instead of plug and play but if someone is inclined to go down that road this might be a useful system and decently economical.


The 8 key display is $255
1731071515217.png


The 4 I/O modules are $314 each
1731071581938.png


The 8 I/O modules are $450
1731071698797.png
Click to expand...
10amp per I/O. No data on transients.
Get a switch pros, it's cheaper, smaller and better.
 
Bebop said:
10amp per I/O. No data on transients.
Get a switch pros, it's cheaper, smaller and better.
Click to expand...


Would you trust the whole truck to be run thru a switch pros? You likely have installed the most of anyone here.
 
pennsylvaniaboy said:
Would you trust the whole truck to be run thru a switch pros? You likely have installed the most of anyone here.
Click to expand...
That is exactly what I do, all the time.
My personal buggy was the first one where I've done this and it worked flawlessly since 2019.

I have never seen a single issue that wasn't due to a bad install/planning from the builder.
 
Will Scarlet said:
This is specific to a Jeep JK setup, but the bulk of information on building it would work for any vehicle really:



That guy has a series on the setup, so make sure to go to YouTube for the rest if it interests you.

Good luck with what ever you choose... :beer:
Click to expand...

This is what I used with a custom built switch mount for Carling switches
 
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