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Critique My Water Heater Installation

Grnd93

Grnd93

The Dude
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
236
Messages
738
Loc
Michigan
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Mom’s water heater took a shit yesterday. There was a shutoff on the cold side, but in chasing what I thought was a leaky Union I had to remove it.

replaced the tank today and added a couple extra valves.

cold on the left, hot on the right. In the event the tank leaks bothering can be shut off and the crossover in the middle opened. This will allow for water on both sides of every faucet while it is out of commission.

I should have done this when I replaced the tank 10 years ago.

Yes, my soldering sucks.
 
IT STINKS!

Sorry, thats all I got
 
If you leave that crossover open about half way, it would reduce your heating bill because the tank wouldn`t have to heat up cold water all the time.
 
I used those lines and both failed what I would consider pre-maturely, flooding my attic TWICE (once for each line)
 
grumpy356 said:
I used those lines and both failed what I would consider pre-maturely, flooding my attic TWICE (once for each line)
Click to expand...

This is my first time using them. There is a slight difference in the spacing between the copper pipe and the fittings on the water heater. I think this is what caused the unions on the old tank to leak and eventually rust through the top of the tank.

if I have any issues with them I’ll run pex from the tank to the shut offs. I don’t have a crimper currently and wasn’t in the mood to buy one for this project. When I redo my bathroom I may invest in one.
 
No need for an expansion tank here unless you have a water hammer problem. Only install those on tankless heaters and that’s manufacture spec/warranty thing not code. Pretty sure it’s a cold weather/ freezing thing?:homer:

oh and joints look like shit. To properly critique maybe a shot of the overall installation and not just the blurry bypass?
 
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What is the reasoning on being able to have cold water from both taps if the hot water tank fails instead of just cold water from cold tap?
 
Crimsen said:
What is the reasoning on being able to have cold water from both taps if the hot water tank fails instead of just cold water from cold tap?
Click to expand...

None really. But I wanted to be able to completely isolate the tank from the house if it fails. To throw 1 extra valve in wasn’t too big of a deal to me.
 
Grnd93 said:
This is my first time using them. There is a slight difference in the spacing between the copper pipe and the fittings on the water heater. I think this is what caused the unions on the old tank to leak and eventually rust through the top of the tank.
Click to expand...

just heat up the fittings up top and reposition the pipes, remove the hangers if you gotta

don't even need unions at the tank, just use sweat x npt adapters, solder them after tightening them, desolder if you need to remove them
 
Install looks fine, don't listen to these assholes.

But you really should tell your mom to shave her beard.
 
Fill me in on the flex lines. I’ve heard that they are inferior to copper line, but when I went to re-plumb mine and I tried to barely put a bend in it, it just kinked in half, so I said fuck it and used them. They are used under sinks and toilets at the same pressure, but not continually heated obviously.

FWIW water heater is under the stairs and easily inspected, I usually turn the water off when we are out of town more than 1 night also. If they fail, do they slowly start weeping, or just split wide open?
 
Gatorgrizz27 said:
I tried to barely put a bend in it, it just kinked in half, so I said fuck it and used them.
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you don't bend hard copper, you heat the fittings so you can move the pipes
if there ain't enough pipe to get the movement, then you can add a couple 45s or whatever to get it flopped around to the right area
 
You know, you don’t have to use the whole roll of solder on each project. you can save any leftover and use it later...

aside from that and the 2 extra needless valves, looks fine.
 
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[486 said:
;n346611]

you don't bend hard copper, you heat the fittings so you can move the pipes
if there ain't enough pipe to get the movement, then you can add a couple 45s or whatever to get it flopped around to the right area
Click to expand...

I think he means the corrugated looking flexible copper lines made for water heaters:lmao:
 
I'm all in favor of valves everywhere. I don't see the point of that middle one, though.

Ball valves > gate valves. Good choice.

Watch those braided flexlines. They suck.

These don't:

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You put a pan under that tank, for WHEN it springs a leak?
 
[486 said:
;n346611]

you don't bend hard copper, you heat the fittings so you can move the pipes
if there ain't enough pipe to get the movement, then you can add a couple 45s or whatever to get it flopped around to the right area
Click to expand...

No, I bought the roll of copper line which I assumed could be tweaked a few degrees by hand. It uses flares and compression fittings. Couldn’t get the corrugated ones to work either due to being too short.
 
Possum said:
No need for an expansion tank here unless you have a water hammer problem. Only install those on tankless heaters and that’s manufacture spec/warranty thing not code. Pretty sure it’s a cold weather/ freezing thing?:homer:
Click to expand...

I thought expansion tanks were instlled by water heaters because as the cold water heats in the tank the volume expands causing undue pressure on the tank and water lines. I went with a tank less and couldn't find anything about needing an expansion tank. Guess because the volume in the heater is much smaller. I put one in anyway, figured for the 50 bucks might as well.
 
All of the valve handles should have faced the same way while in the service position.
 
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