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Crazy4ih’s Scout 64 Scout 80

crazy4ih

Red Skull Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2021
Member Number
3724
Messages
69
I took delivery of my first Scout since I sold my last one back in 2007. It’s pretty much a blank slate for me to do whatever. The only thing it has going for it so far is it seems like the body is fairly solid, but I haven’t really taken a really close look yet. Someone swapped in a Nissan 4 cyl engine at some point and converted it to 2wd. It’s missing doors, windshield, top, tailgate, headlights, most bolts and seats. The wiring is all shot to hell as well.

I am not 100% sure what direction the build will take but initially I’ll be collecting body parts and then probably tackle engine and transmission/T-case. I am leaning towards a LS swap. I had some thoughts on swapping the body onto a JK rolling chassis but not entirely sold on that yet. Time and money will tell.

I’ll update as I make decisions and move forward with the tear down and build.
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My $.02

Stick with an inline engine. Pre-66 scouts (as you probably already know) either require firewall mods or the engine shoved forward to clear a v-type engine. You could possibly put a 60deg V6 in there, but I can't think of one I'd use. Inline 6 would probably necessitate the radiator being mounted outside the radiator support like the 66-up V8 Scout 800s.

I recently acquired a few 3.0L GM industrial engines (basically the Iron Duke 4cyl). Will bolt to any small block chevy bellhousing. I have a factory 2wd Scout I got years ago for part for the 48K original mile one I have. I'm never going to use the body or frame, thought about installing the 3.0L with an SM465 and a RHD NP241. I have a set of late 60's 4wd axles to make this 4wd, or use a set of 1/2t full size axles. Would give a decent power boost over the factory 4cylinder, reduce weight (those IH 4cyls are heavy), and get something under the hood that you can get parts for easily while maintaining the factory vibe.

If you like any of these ideas feel free to steal them:grinpimp:. I'll probably change my mind and install a Isuzu diesel with trans and t-case because bowtie stuff is too common and I can't seem to have stuff that is easy to get parts for:homer:
 
Like previously said you will have to either move the engine farther forward or clearance the firewall a little to fit a v8. I have a 4 cylinder 800 I put a 5.3 in and chose to move it father forward and cut the old cross member out. It made it easy to put in, but trying to get a radiator to fit along with a steering box inside the frame was tough with it that far forward. The stock bulkhead would also need to be heavily modified as the front body mount is in the middle of the cross member. Do not move the engine forward if you do not want to cut the shit out of the engine bay. Here is a pic of the engine. It is easy to work on though.

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My dad has a 65 with a 5.3 in it. stock the two trucks are pretty much identical in terms of the bulkhead and the front cross member. His engine sits behind the front cross member and and utilizes the original bulkhead and inner fenders. He had to cut a little by where the throttle pedal goes and use headers that hug the block and dump out the middle. It is tight but he was able to run a radiator in the stock location and the engine bay looks a whole lot cleaner. If you do not plan on completely cutting the crap out of the engine bay, run the motor father back.
 
I am picking up a another Scout that has most of the sheet metal I am missing and what I don’t use I have a buyer for so win win. I will probably move the front crossmember to the Scout 800 location or even possibly look around for an 800 frame to use. I have toyed with the idea of ditching the inner fenders and making fender supports from tubing. It would open up the engine bay quite a bit but I still anticipate having to trim the firewall a bit.
 
Small update. I’m just about done stripping the parts Scout and trying to decide if I am going to bother keeping the top or tailgate as they are pretty bad rust wise and beyond what I really want to attempt to repair or pay someone to repair. I also picked up 1 ton axles from a 2000 Ford Superduty and I’ll be picking up a 5.3/4l60e/np261 next week. The axles are leaf spring driver side drop. I was originally looking at 05 & newer super duty axles but I think for now I’ll stick with leaf spring. So that’s about it. Still parts gathering and still needing to clean out the other half of the garage so I can make room to actually work.

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Is anyone else running 99-04 super duty axles in their early scout? If so, what leaf springs are you using? I don't really want to run a lift spring as I want to stay low as possible and being that these are SOA already I'll be gaining some height anyways.
 
You could run wagoneer springs. Or YJ springs up front.

Any 52" plus rear spring would prob work well. Depends how much body you want to cut.

If you're doing tons I'm assuming at least 37s.
 
You could run wagoneer springs. Or YJ springs up front.

Any 52" plus rear spring would prob work well. Depends how much body you want to cut.

If you're doing tons I'm assuming at least 37s.
37’s are the plan for now.
 
I've been snapping up a lot of parts lately, maybe I can help. Where are you located?
Like Gozuki said. West coast. Appreciate it though but unless it is something small shipping is usually a deal breaker.
 
Like Gozuki said. West coast. Appreciate it though but unless it is something small shipping is usually a deal breaker.

Near Salinas, CA? I just bought a '64 tub & frame off a really helpful seller who is looking to get some Scout stuff moved. If that's a reasonable trip for you I can send you his info.
I was able to get it hauled to a friend's shop in Salida so I can pick it up in August. If you're between here and that region I might be interested in that top and tailgate when I head out, how bad are they?
 
Near Salinas, CA? I just bought a '64 tub & frame off a really helpful seller who is looking to get some Scout stuff moved. If that's a reasonable trip for you I can send you his info.
I was able to get it hauled to a friend's shop in Salida so I can pick it up in August. If you're between here and that region I might be interested in that top and tailgate when I head out, how bad are they?
Im in Bakersfield, about 4-5 hours from Salinas. I think i know who the guy in Salinas is though. I think i have talked to him before
 
I picked up a set of CJ Dana 44’s to throw under my Scout 80 and sold the 1 tons for now. I know they are weaker but the price was right and they have detroit lockers front and rear, have high steer and the rear has a 30 spline Warn full float kit installed. The rear is an old offset CJ Dana 44 and I am in the process of tearing it down because the long side axle tube is bent, but I also discovered that the threads on the end of the spindle are a little messed up to the point I had to use an impact on my spindle nut to get it off the last 1/4” of the spindle. Warn no longer produces the kits so getting a new spindle from them isn’t an option. The axle housing end and the spindle appear to be old style Big Ford ends and bolt pattern and I havnt found any bolt on spindles that match.

So I am looking into buying a 1 5/8 x 16 die to chase the spindle threads. Anyone ever done this? If so did it work out? Cheapest die I can find is about $90. Would I be better off just taking it to a machine shop to have them chase the threads if they even have a die that size?

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Almost be worth it just to retube it completely with heavier wall, center the housing and just get 2 new straight shafts made.
 
Get a new dana 44 and put the locker and gears from that one in it. Why run an offset housing if you are running a transfer case with a centered output? Retubing is expensive and super labor intensive. I would avoid it if you can.
 
Also CJs never came with a front 44, as far as I know. So unless the frontend was swapped with something else it is a dana 30.
 
Get a new dana 44 and put the locker and gears from that one in it. Why run an offset housing if you are running a transfer case with a centered output? Retubing is expensive and super labor intensive. I would avoid it if you can.
Because full float! Soo strong...
 
I picked up a set of CJ Dana 44’s to throw under my Scout 80 and sold the 1 tons for now. I know they are weaker but the price was right and they have detroit lockers front and rear, have high steer and the rear has a 30 spline Warn full float kit installed. The rear is an old offset CJ Dana 44 and I am in the process of tearing it down because the long side axle tube is bent, but I also discovered that the threads on the end of the spindle are a little messed up to the point I had to use an impact on my spindle nut to get it off the last 1/4” of the spindle. Warn no longer produces the kits so getting a new spindle from them isn’t an option. The axle housing end and the spindle appear to be old style Big Ford ends and bolt pattern and I havnt found any bolt on spindles that match.

So I am looking into buying a 1 5/8 x 16 die to chase the spindle threads. Anyone ever done this? If so did it work out? Cheapest die I can find is about $90. Would I be better off just taking it to a machine shop to have them chase the threads if they even have a die that size?

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C35436F4-23B1-4795-88C1-EA9C04124BE0.jpeg

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Is that just a 5 bolt ford dana 44 spindle with a chunk cut off? Don't know much about early dana 44 crap but if that is the case then just get a new spindle off of an obs f150 or bronco from the junkyard.
 
Because full float! Soo strong...
I am just curious as to what the rear pinion angles would look like. Might lose flex and wear out u joints faster with it being offset like that. That frontend has a pumpkin on the passenger side to. He will have to get a new transfer case anyways, although I do not know of any transfer cases that have the rear output offset, are passenger side drop, and are easily adapted/can live behind a 5.3 with 37s. A Dana 18 might work, but I do not know how it will be living behind a v8.
 
I am just curious as to what the rear pinion angles would look like. Might lose flex and wear out u joints faster with it being offset like that. That frontend has a pumpkin on the passenger side to. He will have to get a new transfer case anyways, although I do not know of any transfer cases that have the rear output offset, are passenger side drop, and are easily adapted/can live behind a 5.3 with 37s. A Dana 18 might work, but I do not know how it will be living behind a v8.
Ya the 18 from his scout shoukd be offset.
 
Finding a centered rear 44 is probably the best option. I am trying to be cheap and use what I have. But at the same time I am probably creating twice the work by trying to use the offset axle then seeing that it is less than ideal and changing it. As far as TC I don’t have one yet. Been looking for a passenger drop NP241c, or go with an ecobox/205 combo. Guess it really depends on how much room there will be between the transmission and rear axle.
 
Keep in mind, angle is angle, doesn't matter if it's up and down and/or sideways. Lots of toy guys running LC/FJ axles can testify.
 
Ya if running a Double cardan I'm sure it would be fine.
 
Got the Nissan engine out today. I sure wish it would cool down already. Was in the mid 90’s by the time I finished. Next will be taking the body off the frame. I need to see if I can find measurements for door widths etc so I can brace everything up before I pull the tub. This scout came with no doors, tailgate or windshield so I couldn’t really measure while everything was attached.

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