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Crazy4ih’s Scout 64 Scout 80

Not much new going on. Stripped out the rest of the interior and dash. Picked up a NP205. 27 spline fig. 8 pattern. Had already been twin sticked and looks to have a vss output installed. Planning on running a ecobox but that will have to wait until bonus time unless I find a screaming deal on a used one somewhere.
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Small update. Still have a long ways to go. Cut off the inner fenders and radiator support. I’ll have to weld up the seams and then on to getting the body off the frame, cleaning the frame up, removing everything I don’t need and moving the front cross member. Then body will go back on and I’ll start laying out spring hangers, engine mounts etc. Hopefully I’ll have a driver by 2024 :rolleyes:

I also picked up a Ruff Stuff TJ front fender in clearance. Going to try to make that work. Think I’ll have room to dovetail the front fenders with a 5.3l in there?
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Small update. Still have a long ways to go. Cut off the inner fenders and radiator support. I’ll have to weld up the seams and then on to getting the body off the frame, cleaning the frame up, removing everything I don’t need and moving the front cross member. Then body will go back on and I’ll start laying out spring hangers, engine mounts etc. Hopefully I’ll have a driver by 2024 :rolleyes:

I also picked up a Ruff Stuff TJ front fender in clearance. Going to try to make that work. Think I’ll have room to dovetail the front fenders with a 5.3l in there?
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With the inner fenders removed it should leave plenty of space for a 5.3. The issue with putting a v8 in an early scout is that you either have to cut the crap out of the firewall or sit the engine far forward. I did the latter, just make sure you leave plenty of room for a radiator, fans, ect. I had a lot of trouble cramming a radiator, coolers, fan, and steering box between the grill engine and frame rails.
 
With the inner fenders removed it should leave plenty of space for a 5.3. The issue with putting a v8 in an early scout is that you either have to cut the crap out of the firewall or sit the engine far forward. I did the latter, just make sure you leave plenty of room for a radiator, fans, ect. I had a lot of trouble cramming a radiator, coolers, fan, and steering box between the grill engine and frame rails.
What steering box are you running? Scout 2? I am planning to run the engine far back as possible.
 
What steering box are you running? Scout 2? I am planning to run the engine far back as possible.

Jeep zj. It mounts inside the frame rails, I had a scout 2 box I was planning on using but they mount on the outside of the frame and that would have rubbed my tire really bad when steering while flexed since I used narrowed axles and h2 rims, and it also would have put the steering shaft in a really awkward configuration (would want to go through the coilover and shock hoop, although you will not have this issue).
 
Jeep zj. It mounts inside the frame rails, I had a scout 2 box I was planning on using but they mount on the outside of the frame and that would have rubbed my tire really bad when steering while flexed since I used narrowed axles and h2 rims, and it also would have put the steering shaft in a really awkward configuration (would want to go through the coilover and shock hoop, although you will not have this issue).
That's good to know. I am planning on using a SII box is I can find one cheap enough.
 
Shout out to Ruff Stuff Specialties. We all know their products and customer service are top notch already. When I ordered the clearance TJ front bumper to adapt to my Scout 80, I had paid for one with clevis mounts. It arrived without them. I sent an email to customer service explaining the issue. I figured they would just ship the mounts to me and I could weld them on later. Nope, they shipped me a whole new bumper with the mounts welded on and told me there was no need to return the other one since it was on clearance and they would lose money in shipping. Dan and his crew never cease to amaze me.


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Shout out to Ruff Stuff Specialties. We all know their products and customer service are top notch already. When I ordered the clearance TJ front bumper to adapt to my Scout 80, I had paid for one with clevis mounts. It arrived without them. I sent an email to customer service explaining the issue. I figured they would just ship the mounts to me and I could weld them on later. Nope, they shipped me a whole new bumper with the mounts welded on and told me there was no need to return the other one since it was on clearance and they would lose money in shipping. Dan and his crew never cease to amaze me.


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Wow good deal!

I do love their products, bought a few times and they will even ship to.me up in canaduh.
 
I mean, done yet?
Haha, is this your subtle way of telling me to get off my lazy ass and work on my shit?

No real progress. Still collecting parts. Axle is still bent. Bought a NWF eco box that should be here tomorrow. It’s a 6 bolt round pattern so I will need to buy a 8 bolt adapter or find a gm 6 bolt np205.
 
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I am in the process of tearing down my front axle. I needed to check caster on the inner c’s and I need to replace seals, TRE’s etc. I removed the out knuckle and I think I found what was called a Castor Corrector? I remember these from back in the day either SSS or another LL dealer sold them. Is it something I should keep them or just ditch them? I am going to cut and turn the C’s anyway, so not sure they are needed.
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I would get the axle mounted with the pinion angle you want then worry about a cut and turn. I would probably ditch the caster adjusters, pretty sure they put unnessecary stress on the u joints. Although I have not seen that style before (only ever rebuilt chevy 44's) so it might be stock. Not too sure though.
 
Yeah. Found that as well and SSS still has them on their site also. Guess maybe I have a Scout 2 Dana 44. Guy I bought it from wasn’t sure.
Most early Dana 30/44 jeep/ scout/ chev should have upper ball joint threaded sleeves. Some are straight some are offset you can use them for caster or camber I had a set used for camber wheeled the hell out of my Scout 44 never hurt u joints. It may put a little weee bit of load on the side gears of the diff but likely no more or less than turning the wheels does.

Measure the width. If it was spring under could be a Jeep wagoneer or scout. Spring over GM.
 
Small update. Rear axle is now straight. Time to truss it and install the Ruff Stuff offset spring perches. I still need to decide what spring to run in the rear, but I think I am leaning toward Chevy S-10 rear springs.

Found and bought a 6-bolt round NP205 case in AZ and had my wife pick it up when she was visiting her friend in Sedona. Going to swap all the internals from my figure 8 case. So now I can bolt right up to the Eco Box I have with no adapter. I need a 32 spline short input instead of the long input that came with the case I bought.

Think I have settled on using a 4l80e transmission instead of the 4l60e. Beefier and I think overall should be a little shorter (I think). I need to source a NP241 32 spline input for the ecobox to replace the 27 spline input.

Other than that I have just been making space in the garage so I can take the body off the frame and roll the frame into the garage to work on it in the shade since 100 degree temps are just around the corner. I decided to remove the body filler from the passenger side rocker panel to see how bad it was underneath and to my surprise, it’s one of the cleanest rockers I have seen on an old scout. Not sure what the previous owner was thinking. Custom body work and filled seams? Still scratching my head.

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Holy shit they laid that bondo on thick! Rocker looks mint.
 
Still not much going on but finally have started working on this again. We moved at the end of July and finally cleaned the side yard enough to get my scout back there. I bought a Yes Welder CT2050 combo Tig/ Stick/Plasma machine back when they were first on kickstarter a ways back. Finally put it to use and cut off old engine mounts, shock mounts, spring hangers and got the Dana 27’s out from under the Scout. Welded in a new front crossmember then removed the original S80 front crossmember. I have the front pretty cleaned up and ready to mock up the placement of the 5.3 before removing the body and cleaning up the rest of the frame.

Now that I have the scout up on jack stands, I can see that there was a lot more shitty body work and excessive use of bondo than previously thought. From underneath I can see a lot of self tapping screws poking through the sheet metal in the rear quarter and can see the screw heads starting to pop through the bondo on the exterior. I still haven't decided how much body work I want to do since I will be aggressively trimming anyways. Other than buying a 4L80E off of Offer-Up that’s about it for now.
 
Any reason not to remote mount my battery in the stock passenger fuel tank location? Seems like I could probably fit a dual battery setup in there fairly easily.
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Any reason not to remote mount my battery in the stock passenger fuel tank location? Seems like I could probably fit a dual battery setup in there fairly easily.
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Go for it. I was going to do this before I cut them out for trailing arms. Was planning on putting batteries on one side and an air tank on the other.
 
Go for it. I was going to do this before I cut them out for trailing arms. Was planning on putting batteries on one side and an air tank on the other.
That’s what I was thinking as well.
 
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Getting ready to mock in the LS. New body bushings will be here Monday. Wanted to get the body bushings in first before placing the engine. Also dragged the front fenders and grill out of storage and stick them on there temporarily. Looks so much better with a front on there. I’ll probably keep them in there until I mock in the engine just to make sure the height is good. Other than that no real work.
 
What are the details on the s10?
It’s a friends rig we have been working on for a while. Stock v6, 4l60E, NP205, NWF Ecobox, 05+ Superduty axles, radius arms with ORI’s in front, leafs in back, full hydro steering, e-lockers, 41.5” Pit Bull Rockers, ~132” wheelbase, chopped bed. Almost done. Working on the small stuff (lights, electrical, fluids, PS and Trans coolers, etc..) to get it finished and running.


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Previous owner apparently decided to play hide and seek with the driver front body mount. Sheet metal, riveted in, covered in body filler, covered by bed-liner, covered by some type of tar membrane waterproofing.
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