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Crate Motor and Long Distance Traveling/Hauling Reliability

CDA 455 II

ANFAQUE2
Joined
May 19, 2020
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No Country For Old Men
My query involves swapping in a brand new crate motor and trusting it to do multiple 5,000+ mile trips all over North America, including Alaska and North Yukon/Northwest territories.

Once a brand new crate motor is installed and dialed in; is it a set-and-forget set up?


I would like to do long distance (coast to coast) traveling with my '94 Bronco while towing a camper trailer.

I'm in the process of putting ton-axles in, as well as other upgrades.

The 302 5.0L has 250,500 miles on it currently.

I am not mechanically inclined other than routine maintenance.


I figured I'd put a few thousand miles in said crate engine via local traveling before setting off on a serious sojourn.
 
I don’t think it would be any different than any engine in a new vehicle unless you’re going with something strange. I think the bigger potential issue would be all of the other components with 250K+ miles of wear and tear on them.
 
1) I don’t think it would be any different than any engine in a new vehicle unless you’re going with something strange.

2) I think the bigger potential issue would be all of the other components with 250K+ miles of wear and tear on them.

1) That's what I'm thinking/hoping.
If I do go the crate motor route; everything directly related will be upgraded/replaced:
a) cooling system
b) fuel system
c) starting system

2) Excellent point; that's what I'm working on now.
 
Any crate motor will be built to better standards than a factory motor was in 94. The 80's-90's were not a prime example of american quality when it came to vehicles.
 
Any crate motor will be built to better standards than a factory motor was in 94. The 80's-90's were not a prime example of american quality when it came to vehicles.

:shaking::rolleyes: Ok buddy.

It'll be build to likely the same standards. A 302 is a 302. Maybe they'll throw more modern bearings and rings in and the clearances and bores will reflect the tolerances those bearings and rings want but there's not going to be anything fundamentally different. You're just less likely to get a lemon than you were in 1994 because we have better quality control processes these days.
 
:shaking::rolleyes: Ok buddy.

It'll be build to likely the same standards. A 302 is a 302. Maybe they'll throw more modern bearings and rings in and the clearances and bores will reflect the tolerances those bearings and rings want but there's not going to be anything fundamentally different. You're just less likely to get a lemon than you were in 1994 because we have better quality control processes these days.

That's my exact point, QC is part of the build standards and the early 90's sucked. Manufacturing tolerances tend to be better these days even on the same boring old 302's, QC is better all around. Oil is better, filters are better, everything except the design is better. My point was that the chances of that crate motor having a reliability problem from the factory are going to be lower than they were on the original motor
 
I’d replace the rad, and any and all lines or hoses you will be disconnecting, because if they are original and you start fucking with them they are liable to start leaking soon even if they don’t right now. And replace any sensors or anything on the back of the block that will be a mother fucker to get at if you don’t. Other than that just do a decent break in and a couple of oil changes and rock on. If it doesn’t let loose in like 3k miles around home driving to work out any teething problems, it’s probably not going to give you any issues cross country. Besides, new motor failures are usually crib deaths, it’s going to start knocking on first start up or run for a good long while (excluding wiping out the cam, but you should be a roller block)

This. It would be a good time to assess your vehicles wiring also.
 
Motor will probably be fine, I would replace the distributor, fuel pump, cooling, and transmission while your there anyway. It’s everything else that will bite you.
 
Yep wiring and electrical would probably be the most likely thing to take your truck out of commision on that truck.

Motor will probably be fine, I would replace the distributor, fuel pump, cooling, and transmission while your there anyway. It’s everything else that will bite you.

/
If I do a complete crate motor swap; I can just shitcan the entire factory wiring harness, couldn't I?

And just rewire everything; maybe use a Painless universal wiring harness, etc.


That sound reasonable/logical?
 
/
If I do a complete crate motor swap; I can just shitcan the entire factory wiring harness, couldn't I?

And just rewire everything; maybe use a Painless universal wiring harness, etc.


That sound reasonable/logical?

I would keep the factory wiring, but inspect it well.
 
I would keep the factory wiring, but inspect it well.

It's really frustrating; my current electrical issue is the rear window:
About 6 years ago the key switch died.

Last week the dash switch died.


So I'm going to take the top off since I have to unbolt/lift it in order to lower the tailgate (with window still up) and figure out the problem.
 
I'm revisiting/reconsidering this option this week. :laughing: :homer:


If I end up going this route, I think I might get another '72 Blazer.

If Grendel's '72 Blazer is still available in a few years, that would be a sweet option. :smokin:
 
I'm revisiting/reconsidering this option this week. :laughing: :homer:


If I end up going this route, I think I might get another '72 Blazer.

If Grendel's '72 Blazer is still available in a few years, that would be a sweet option. :smokin:
LOL.

Asshole. ;)
 
With ID working to do away with emissions testing, the 7.3 is looking more and more like a possibility.
1644588547771.jpeg



And with the Atlas 4sp adaptor option for the 10R80 tranny; I'll be able to accomplish the final drive ratio I desire (150:1~).:smokin:
 
My retirement pays out in 4 years, and I have ADHD.
I expect to be changing my mind about 12,000 times between now and then.:laughing::homer:

I've even thought about hiring you to do a '72 Chevy C60 build for me. :smokin:

1644593467094.png
We did this one. C30 air bagged frame front and rear, Cummins, Allison.
We did all the rough in, got it running and driving. Customer took it from there... and wrecked it before it got painted.

Dually rear fenders were custom to match tronts.

I have a C60 on At4K's in my head, too.
 

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We did this one. C30 air bagged frame front and rear, Cummins, Allison.
We did all the rough in, got it running and driving. Customer took it from there... and wrecked it before it got painted.

Dually rear fenders were custom to match tronts.

I have a C60 on At4K's in my head, too.
I want to add a front drive axle (Dana 60/70/80).
Mount a 5th wheel camper on the chassis.
 
Most still left haven't been used, so they're not bad.

That C50 we used was a rust free fire truck, paid 500 for it.

Thing is, you wont want any of the drivetrain or suspension. Too slow, too harsh.
 
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