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Cory's Cummins swap.


OG irate
May 19, 2020
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I started this actual build at the first of march and posted it on another forum. Just trying to get yall caught up now. Some post might be of me replying to the original thread since im a lazy bastard and am going to just copy and paste the thread over here. :flipoff2:

So i picked up this sweet rare 84 Dodge crew cab short bed juanton 4x4 from a friend about 3 years ago. I got it with the intentions of making a sweet tow truck out of it and now everything has lined up right to start working on it.

My current tow truck has been a low miles ugly 94 single cab long bed 2wd cummings with a 5 speed. The only things i have liked about it have been the beast of a motor the mighty 12v has been and the interior is super clean. I hate the look of 2nd gens let alone a single cab with crappy paint. Luckily it was cheap enough and i have used it for the last 4 years with all my towing duties that i dont feel bad gutting it at this point.

Heres the crew cab shortly after i got it. First thing i did was get on ebay and score a sweet windshield visor for it and replaced the roof cab lights. Next i replaced the rotten d/s floor. Other than the d/s floor there is a small corner of the rocker with rust. The rest of the truck is a little beat but nothing im going to cry over. Other than that i have swapped out the wheels and tires with more modern ones that you see later on.

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I was hoping the "g" was tongue in cheek. Think this clown thinks it belongs. FML. Be sure and add some late model mirrors and keep them flipped up as well. Maybe this thread can be the first hgtd
Glad to see i got the die hard Cummins guys panties in a bunch already. :flipoff2:

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Last night i gutted the 2wd nv4500. It needs to be gone through before anything can really get done. I will be swapping a gm 32spline 4x4 main shaft into it and bolting a gm NP205 behind it. It will get a new clutch as this one was about on the rivets, it may of even been the original clutch in this thing. The truck has right at 182K miles on it now. i got it at 165k.




Selfish Buggy
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We gutted the tranny and all the oem Timiken bearings look great. Waiting on the 4x4 gm main shaft, updated 5th gear lock nut and input seal, and spacer to bolt the 205 up. i already acquired a gm tail housing and a round pattern 205.

Im not a Dodge or Cummins loyalist. I like all makes and models and prefer some parts to others. I like the simplicity and reliability that goes with the common rail Cummins engines. I like the interchangeability with chevy drive trains. I love fords continuance to improve and used Dana 60 front axles. I love old shit box Toyotas for around town getters. I wanted a 4door crew cab square body chev for the longest time before i found this dodge. I also love trolling those that are loyalist to a certain make because their daddies dads dads bought one off the assembly line 300 years ago and so does my buddie Brian. Brian had this sticker made for me for Christmas a few years ago and now it has a proper home.


That time i got stuck in my own drive way in my ugly single cab Cummings. I literally let the clutch out slow and it never even moved in the slightest. I could just kind of feel it sinking lol.


Toyota getter for the win.


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Far from a Cummins fan boy. I hate all diesels pretty much equally. I’ll run a gasser tow rig until I die. But I never miss the opportunity to call out a solid indicator of “I finger my cousin” when I see it

Should i delete this thread and any good potential tech that may come with it then? I wouldn't want to post anything that may cause you to think i finger my cousin. Does this buggy indicate that i finger my cousin?

Current pic of the crew cab with the newer wheels and tire combo.


Got the Cummings yanked out last night. All the forums I read said to drop the pan or disassemble the 5 and 6 valve train to get the motor out. Guess they didn't know you could just stretch the cowl a little and do some precision hackery to the frame motor mounts.




After I gutted the dodge I threw together this engine stand for the motor out of scraps.





Anyone need some 2nd gen parts?
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The buggy is badass, adding a g to cummins is gayer than cum on a mustache.

The jegs sticker on the chop saw is a little suspect though:flipoff2:

Between badass and cousin fingering. . I can live with that. :flipoff2:


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Current pic of the crew cab with the newer wheels and tire combo.

Got the Cummings yanked out last night. All the forums I read said to drop the pan or disassemble the 5 and 6 valve train to get the motor out. Guess they didn't know you could just stretch the cowl a little and do some precision hackery to the frame motor mounts.




After I gutted the dodge I threw together this engine stand for the motor out of scraps.




Anyone need some 2nd gen parts?

Fix your pics!

Where are you located and how nice is the bed? is it a long bed?
Fix your pics!

Where are you located and how nice is the bed? is it a long bed?

What's wrong with my pics? They look good on my end? Other guy was able to see me buggy pic.

Richfield Utah. Yes long bed. There is one slight dent in the bed and a hole for a hidaball, no rust. I'll get pics of your serious.
What's wrong with my pics? They look good on my end? Other guy was able to see me buggy pic.

Richfield Utah. Yes long bed. There is one slight dent in the bed and a hole for a hidaball, no rust. I'll get pics of your serious.

I can see your buggy pic, but not the others. I follow the link and get a login screen.

you are too far away... unless I talk the wife into a road trip next month.

ill give you beer and let you help me put it on my truck! Lol.
I can see your buggy pic, but not the others. I follow the link and get a login screen.

you are too far away... unless I talk the wife into a road trip next month.

ill give you beer and let you help me put it on my truck! Lol.

Work now?
I Went through the 205. I remember trying to put this one in a buddies blazer 10 years ago. Its been stored outside luckily upside down since then. It still had atf in it and looked great inside. I replaced both the output seals and the input seal and cleaned the magnet off inside it.

Im using 1410 u joints all around on this truck. Im using the single cab 1410 rear drive line for the 4 door so i installed a old new atlas 1410 yoke on the the rear of the 205. 32 spline 205 yokes are the same as atlas and stak fyi. I had a 1410 flange on the shelf so i machined the 205 original front flange pilot to fit into the 1410 flange. The bolt pattern was the same but both were threaded so i just drilled out the 1410 flange.




Spacer i had to get with the longer input shaft on the 205 to bolt it to a chevy nv4500 tail housing. I got this 4x4 nv4500 tail housing from a friend but it ended up being a dodge one so now im waiting on a cast iron gm one to show up now.

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Got the new gm cast iron tail housing and had to clearance it for the 205 shift rail. NBD


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Drove her into the shop.
This thing has sat in my yard with the original tank of gas for the last 3 years. lol


Had to cut the siezed hitch off so i was able to shut the door and have enough room to walk in front of it. I split the tube inside the receiver with the torch so the slug should come out.




Theres a sm465 and a 205 under there some where. Theres close to 3/4" of grime around them.


Super beefy factory transfer case skid plate. Ive seen alot of trucks of all makes and these old dodges are overkill on every thing. This^ tranny x member has six 7/16" bolts per side holding it to the frame and then skid plate bolted to with a extra x member. The tranny had 5/8" bolts holding it to the mount lol.
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Got the new rear main seal put in and the new clutch.



Tranny got all done.


This spot face was not tapped since it was a 2wd tranny before. Its what the t case shift linkage pivots on. I tapped it out, machined a bushing to fit into the original 205 shifter, welded up the linkage pivot holes in lever and shift rail linkage and redrilled them to 3/8 to be able to use some hiems. I then machined a new link out of some aluminum.


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Spent a fair amount of time pressure washing it and a few cycles of oven cleaner on some really nasty spots.


Austin "helping" lol



I had to move the x member back two bolt holes to get it to light up in the new correct spot.

I reused the 94 rubber mount. I had to wollar the holes in it a 1/8" inward to bolt it to the gm tail housing i then made this spacer to weld to the x member for the rubber mount to bolt to.

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Had to do some starter finagling. The starter motor on the 2nd gens come off the block directly to the side which hits the narrower first gen frame pretty good. First gens had them pointing down. I tried to use a first gen starter but it would only get me 2 out of the 3 bolts. I opted to use my 2nd gen starter and clock it down. It would also only get me 2 bolt holes. If i felt like pulling the tranny i could drill and tap the 3 bolt hole into the tranny adapter but cannot while its in as the its too close to the side of the block to drill straight. I ended up using the 3rd unused threaded hole in the adapter by fabricating a small pinch down clamp. The two bolts that do work im sure would be enough to hold it alone. It has a male and female pilots that mate the starter to the adapter concentrically, the bolts just hold it in.




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I got the exhaust knocked out. Other than that mounting the radiator, inter cooler, and core support it is the only major custom fab job left. The 2nd gen had a 3" down pipe into 2 4" glass packs and then dumped in front of the tire. Alex brought up his old 4" down pipe and some straight exhaust and muffler for me and it was just enough for me to cobble together a new exhaust all 4"

i like to install flanges in tubing this way; bolt them together with a washer in between, weld them on and then cut the tube with a sawzall, this way there is no chance for it not to line up correctly.

I made a slug that will couple the two halves together and then cut out an aluminum gasket also.



Should be pretty quite with 3 mufflers. They are all straight flow through design.


I wrapped the down pipe as it is closest to the fire wall and floor and also gets the hottest. Amazing how nice some header wrap can make even the most hacked together exhaust look lol.

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Austin found me a few more bends so i redid the tail pipe how i originally wanted it, NASCAR boys! I feel bad for whoever gets the side of their car painted by it lol.



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I scored these strap style 1410 yokes off ebay for a song and milled them out to u bolt style. I bought a extra one to use on the lathe as a tool since I used our spare atlas yoke on the 205.




This is a little roller bump tool I made to true up things before welding.


That's a 20$ 1410 front driveline. The neat part is its the same length and joint size as both my buggy drivelines.

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Ran into a problem. The flange i was gonna use couldn't get enough angle without binding. I grinded it a little and got it to turn but still it barely touched. I dug through my driveline pile and found another flange that would allow more angle but the bolt pattern was different so I then made an adapter. I really wish all the domestic driveline were more like the imports. Toyota drivelines have extra tall ears that allow for tons of angle without binding.


Female and Male pilots that match the 205 flange and driveline flange ensuring they are concentric.


I ended up welding the grinded bolts so they were studs.


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Austin came by and remounted my cruise control module so that the speedo cable would reach on the p/s. The dodge 205s mount them on the d/s.

I opened up the filler neck for the bigger diesel pumps.


Picked up a green cap.


I ran new hard fuel lines down the frame and a new brake line.

I painted the filler necks and replaced all the hoses. I hot soaped pressured washed the inside of the plastic 20 gallon tank and tested the fuel sender and put it all back in. Im going to fabricate an aluminum tank to go under the tool box with a tank selector valve after its up and going because stopping at the pump with a trailer is for peasants. I could fit 72 gallons under the tool box if i wanted to.


I also got the rear drive line done. All i had to do was shorten the carrier drive line. Its all mocked up right now as i wait for 3 new u joints and new carrier bearing. Spicer 230549
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Rear drive line is all done and assembled. i replaced all the ujoints with some greaseable spicers ones and installed a new carrier bearing.

I had to make a different carrier bearing mounting plate as the carrier bearing ended up being less than an inch further back and i didn't fell like having to lengthen the long shaft to get it to the stock spot. This allowed me to cut a clearance void in the plate so the drive shaft wasn't so close to the plate. i cut the new plate out of 3/8" the old one was 1/4".


I was able to bend the plate to get the perfect straight carrier drive line angle off the tcase.




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The d/s rear had a loos brake drum. After pulling the hub it appears that some one changed the wheel studs and the studs had a slightly longer shoulder for the brake drum that would allow the drum to be loos after the studs splines where fully bottomed out so i cut out a spacer out of some 14 guage and that tightened the drum to the hub.



Heres part of the clutch retro fit i did. I used the 2 gen hydraulic clutch master cylinder. It goes into a square hole and then turns 90* locking it in. I cut a plate with a square hole and bolted to the fire wall in roughly the spot where the 1st gen cummins trucks have them. It was then offset from the clutch pedal so i made this stud to connect the linkage together. The best part is the the clutch pedal already had the right sized hole drilled in the exact spot i needed.

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Cut the giant bumper tube off. i think i will reuse the tube as the bumper but more better and it will bolt on.


I had to straighten this front x member. Some one had hooked a chain to it at some time and waded up the one corner pretty bad and torn out the rivets.


2 gen core support mount nonsense.





Im trying to track down a more straight grill bezel so i can finish the core support sides. Im just going to cut up the factory core support ends where they bolt to fender and welded them to my steel plate box on the sides. they will secure the fender and hold the lights in the factory spots.


I got all that nonsensense to fit behind the factory grill bezel. Ill have to make a grill insert but nbd,


Replaced the damaged fender today so i can finish the core support.


Fuel shut off push pull cable.
I got the old core support ends morphed into my core support.




I mounted the old air box. Its close to the turbski so the mount is also a heat shield. I may put a turbo heat diaper on the turbo asswell.


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Got some batteries mounted. I put them both on the drivers side so I have space on the passenger side to get clever with the ac condenser down the road.




Hot garbage