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Coolant leak - 5vze

rockota

rockota

white collar hillbilly
Joined
May 28, 2020
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1642
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Didn't want to hijack Stingray thread. Like his engine, been slowly losing coolant from overflow and rad. Has always run a tad warm.

Timing/pump/etc done 11/2016 at @150k. Currently has 168k. Ordered kit, assuming might be water pump leak.


Pulled skids today and saw the attached. So the question... where does the pump weep on these? Definitely looks like the Toyota Red coolant. The lower hose clamp was just a tad loose on the thermostat housing. The housing itself is dry.
 

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rockota said:
Didn't want to hijack Stingray thread. Like his engine, been slowly losing coolant from overflow and rad. Has always run a tad warm.

Timing/pump/etc done 11/2016 at @150k. Currently has 168k. Ordered kit, assuming might be water pump leak.


Pulled skids today and saw the attached. So the question... where does the pump weep on these? Definitely looks like the Toyota Red coolant. The lower hose clamp was just a tad loose on the thermostat housing. The housing itself is dry.
Click to expand...
Is that correct, only 16K on the replacement pump? Was it a Toyota or aftermarket?
 
Stingray said:
Is that correct, only 16K on the replacement pump? Was it a Toyota or aftermarket?
Click to expand...
18k-ish. Not really a DD. It was Aisin brand.

I'm still not 100% confident where the leak is coming from. I might drive it a few days w/o the skids to see what I can see. I'm hopeful it was just a loose clamp, but that seems so unlikely to me.
 
Slander said:
The pump weeps right under the pulley. The pulley is behind the cover/fan support and is driven by the timing belt.
Click to expand...

THANKS!

might be easier to put an LS in this than deal with a weeping water pump.
 
rockota said:
18k-ish. Not really a DD. It was Aisin brand.

I'm still not 100% confident where the leak is coming from. I might drive it a few days w/o the skids to see what I can see. I'm hopeful it was just a loose clamp, but that seems so unlikely to me.
Click to expand...
Auto parts coolant pressure tester.

run it up to 15 psi and give it a look.

or check it hot.

Either way something is leaking.
 
Stingray said:
Auto parts coolant pressure tester.

run it up to 15 psi and give it a look.

or check it hot.

Either way something is leaking.
Click to expand...

have one on order, actually. forgot I did that that. :homer:
 
Check the back of the head also. When the headgasket recall was going. They were leaking externally.
 
Slander said:
If you can't figure out how to replace a water pump on a 3.4, an LS may be a bit over your head:flipoff2:
Click to expand...

at least the water pump will be easier after. :flipoff2: Glad I've never had to replace a starter on a 4.7/4.6... Damned Toyota engineers.
 
Roktoy829 said:
Check the back of the head also. When the headgasket recall was going. They were leaking externally.
Click to expand...

all the water on the skid is up front. Back appeared dry, but will check again.
 
If it is the water pump is the plan to do another timing belt and all, I've been trying to figure out if I can just do the water pump without pulling the bottom half apart.
 
Stingray said:
If it is the water pump is the plan to do another timing belt and all, I've been trying to figure out if I can just do the water pump without pulling the bottom half apart.
Click to expand...

That’s the problem I’m debating. If the water pump is weeping, I’m 89.67% positive the timing belt needs to be pulled to replace the pump.

So it’s not much more work to put a new belt in? Though, if I can avoid the crank pulley, I’d consider hating my decision later to make the work easier now. 😂
 
Just replace the belt you will have done 99% of the work to change it just to get to the water pump.
 
Slander said:
Just replace the belt you will have done 99% of the work to change it just to get to the water pump.
Click to expand...

Yeah. PITA if it’s just a weeping pump. I think it took me 7 hours last time.
 
Yes you can leave the belt on the crank gear and leave the harmonic balancer on.
There is a tool to keep you from removing the A/C compressor.
 
Pressure tester on with 15# of pressure.

Recommendation on how king to let it sit?

Edit: Lower radiator hose.
 
Last edited:
Roktoy829 said:
Leak coming from the hose?
Click to expand...

Between hose and thermostat housing. Loosen the clamp by even 1/4 turn and it shoots out in a stream. Tighten and “good.”

It’s an aftermarket “silicone” hose. I think I’ll replace it with a regular rubber style.
 
Another option, you can get UV dye from most auto parts stores. Then just get a black light / scorpion light and look for the source.
 
rockota said:
Between hose and thermostat housing. Loosen the clamp by even 1/4 turn and it shoots out in a stream. Tighten and “good.”

It’s an aftermarket “silicone” hose. I think I’ll replace it with a regular rubber style.
Click to expand...
I haven't had luck with Silicone hoses, Replacing it is a good call.

I have an an aftermarket rubber on the lower hose and I see evidence of coolant on it, Just ordered a factory Toyota lower hose. So far It's still running 10 miles at a time.
 
Stingray said:
I haven't had luck with Silicone hoses, Replacing it is a good call.

I have an an aftermarket rubber on the lower hose and I see evidence of coolant on it, Just ordered a factory Toyota lower hose. So far It's still running 10 miles at a time.
Click to expand...


I’m afraid to ask how much the factory hose ran… Napa has an upper and lower set for ~$35
 
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All back together... no leak. Holds pressure fine.

But it runs hot. Scangauge shows it between 193 and 207 in a 20 mile mixed drive.

I think it's always run warm since I've owned it, but now that I'm noticing it. I find it ironic that the timing belt kit doesn't include thermostat, but oh well.

Fan clutch, tstat, tstat gasket, belts, upper radiator hose (lower replaced - Napa only had one) and coolant temp sensor ordered... all hard parts are Aisin....
 
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Mine ran right in that range forever, and the new norm is above 215 and rising, on an around town 10 mile drive, so that's the leash I'm keeping it on,

other projects ahead of it right now,

193-207 is manageable, I would not sweat that.
 
Stingray said:
Mine ran right in that range forever, and the new norm is above 215 and rising, on an around town 10 mile drive, so that's the leash I'm keeping it on,

other projects ahead of it right now,

193-207 is manageable, I would not sweat that.
Click to expand...

My other 2 seem to run a lot cooler, including the supercharged truck. Neighbors hovers at 185, i guess.
Truck is staying "fo-eva," so if nothing else, I'll have some spares on hand.



Anyone know the part number for the AC Tensioner adjuster bolt? Mine apparently is missing. :homer: I can find the part number for the 2.7 (9012208012), but not the 3.4.
 
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