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Converting a 12” wood bandsaw to cut steel project

Landslide

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I bought this 1950’s vantage Sears Craftsman 12” wood bandsaw at an auction around 8 years ago. Never used it and almost sold it once but decided to keep it.

Earlier this year I decided to convert it to cut steel for my fab shop. Currently I use my 110v Milwaukee portable bandsaw and lock the handle in my Jaw vice. There’s no swag type table on it but just the oem base which is a steel finger thing. Its limitations are that and the depth of cut.

So I have to slow the speed down from around 2,800 fpm to around 100 fpm for steel. This can be achieved a couple ways. One is by fabing up an intermediate or 3rd v belt pulley/shaft/pilar block bearings thing. Small pulley on motor to 11” or 12” OD pulley on shaft to small 1.5” v belt pulley to 10” or 11” pulley on bandsaw input shaft. I think this is around 200 ish fpm or close to it.

Another method is to run a gear reduction box of 30:1 ratio with a 1725 or 1750 rpm motor.

I’m going the route of electric motor flush mounted to 30:1 gear box. I had one in stock but the motor tested out one bad circuit (3 phase motor) and repairing the motor is est $400 plus and I found one on eBay for $200 but no response back if they’ll test it for me.

So I stumble on an ad on FB MP selling gear boxes for $25 each off of two pallets. So I meet up with him and it’s a mfg business that just held an auction and these among a bunch of other stuff didn’t sell. So I bought two gear boxes and a gear box with motor and a small electric motor with squirrel cage fan (no idea why but wtf right :laughing:) the gear box / motor I bought for $20 because not sure if good or not and no dog tag for gear ratio on gear box.

Tested out the motor out and it’s good - all three windings make continuity between each and not grounded out. I took the fan cover off and marked the blade and spun it around 30 rotations and the gear box output shaft made one complete full rotation 30:1. Sweet.

So now I gotta modify a stand I bought from sears when they were closing out their craftsman tools to mount the bandsaw and motor gear box assembly on and make it mobile.

Join me on my fabrication modification of changing a wood bandsaw into a steel cutting bandsaw. Someday imma get me a CNC plasma table for my shop but until then, I either use my buddies or use a bandsaw to cut stuff out with.

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The stand I got from sears years ago won’t work without a ton of modifications to it I really didn’t want do to it to make it work out.

FB MP had a new unused Delta stand with a new unused electric motor on it for some type of machine. Guy selling it had no idea what was on it just wanted to sell it. I talked him down $25 on it and bought it for $75. Figures a new electric motor is worth more then that anyway.

So this Delta base is more suitable for this project. The top is wide enough opening for the drive belt to pass through with under mounted drive assembly. It has leg cross bar supports I can possibly use to mount the drive motor / gear box assembly off of in some fashion. I’ll have to fabricate up either a riser for the saw to mount on or stretch the legs in so fashion. Rather make a tall riser since I’ll need to build an adapter setup for the saw to set on.

It’s coming together and so far, I have $95 in this build not including the new saw tires. I have a new on/off paddle switch I bought some years back when I bought one for my tubing bender I built. I’ll use that on this saw too.

I have to buy metal cutting blades yet too.

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I did this with a inline gear motor and I found the belt final drive is not effective at this slow metal cutting speed.
I have some bicycle chain and sprocket I was going to graft on it but now that I think about it a timing belt would be quieter, better?

At any rate the oem belt is in-effective.

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If you go with the timing belt you can probably just buy taper lock pulleys in your (potentially metric if it's an import) shaft sizes. If you go with chain you might need to fabricate something.
 
Only reason I'm worried about chain is noise, but i'm probably going to do chain.

if I had 8" pulleys with some idlers to increase wrap it would probably fine.
A little slip isn't a bad thing.
 
There’s no forgiveness with a chain drive setup and your blade will become the only weak link, have extra blades in stock in case. :smokin:

What RPM is your motor drive setup at?
 
There’s no forgiveness with a chain drive setup and your blade will become the only weak link, have extra blades in stock in case. :smokin:

What RPM is your motor drive setup at?
I'll have to check, iirc it's set up for 100 sfm
Which seems a little slow for the 10/14 vari pitch blade
 
I have a few treadmill motors that I think would work great if you get the motor rpm in the range.

When I tried to use the treadmill motor on my drill press there was not enough reduction to get the torque out of the motor.
 
Something to think about is adding a air pump to the mix.
On this motor there is a 1/4" D shaft that sticks out of the fan end to mount a brake or encoder.
I mounted a 12v air compressor pump (aka viar style) to that shaft and ran a 1/4" poly tube up to the blade guide.
The constant air blows the chips away from the cut and makes it super easy to see.

This was a feature of the bad ass Do-Alls that I was able to copy easily.
Since it doesn't make any pressure just flow the compressor has lasted 12+ years at this point.
 
I found the pix...
My new idea is to use that treadmill motor sitting next to it on a hinged platform and the gear motor on a hinged platform.
Ill convert the gear motor to chain drive and the treadmill will retain the belt drive. Then I can hinge the motors to remove/install their drive belt/chain to easily switch from wood to metal.
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And a video
 
The treadmill motor is 1.5hp but 4800 RPM so it will need a jackshaft for sure to get back down to the correct speed for wood.
Probably just need to find a 1 hp 120v motor....

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I found the pix...
My new idea is to use that treadmill motor sitting next to it on a hinged platform and the gear motor on a hinged platform.
Ill convert the gear motor to chain drive and the treadmill will retain the belt drive. Then I can hinge the motors to remove/install their drive belt/chain to easily switch from wood to metal.
1723131727309.jpeg


And a video
I like the idea of a compressor. How do you add it and be sure your dust collector can still capture dust from cutting wood with the added compressed air blowing?
 
I like the idea of a compressor. How do you add it and be sure your dust collector can still capture dust from cutting wood with the added compressed air blowing?
Me no got-e dust collection...

The volume is so low and focused I wouldn't think it would have an effect on dust collection.
The compressor is that blue hose in the video.
There is a hole in the blade guard that perfectly holds the hose.
 
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