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Coilover valving

Eddie315

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May 20, 2020
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791
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New shims are in and its 100% better! I'm happy with the front and I'm calling it good. The rear is better but still too stiff. Maybe once I have a passenger, cooler, and tools loaded up it will be fine. I'll get a video soon and post it here. Thank you all for your help!
 
Joined
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New shims are in and its 100% better! I'm happy with the front and I'm calling it good. The rear is better but still too stiff. Maybe once I have a passenger, cooler, and tools loaded up it will be fine. I'll get a video soon and post it here. Thank you all for your help!
is the rear stiff (zip tie test) or is the rear packing?
 

Eddie315

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791
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is the rear stiff (zip tie test) or is the rear packing?
I hit some pretty big bumps and tried to get the suspension to work without violently bottoming it out. The front compressed almost all the way and when the rear hit the suspension didnt compress and the back tires came off the ground. This happened multiple times on different bumps. You can see how much the front rubber bumper thing on the shaft went down and the dirt on the rear shows the same thing.
20220804_202429.jpg
20220804_202409.jpg
 

Eddie315

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it probably is. bleed only helps/hurts in the slow speed stuff.

is the rear a straight 12 stack?
All 4 shocks have 10 compression 8 rebound. Fronts have a single 12 on the top of the pyramid like bdkw1 recommended. I didn't have enough to do the same to the rear but that wouldn't have helped in this situation anyways. This picture is the front stack with the 12 on top.
20220804_164017.jpg
 

bdkw1

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I guess try 8's on comp? I've never had to go that light on something before.

How's your rear end geometry? How much anti squat?
 

Bebop

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Before going to a full 8 comp, do a small flutter with an 8 shim on the 10 stack.

If it's still too harsh, remove the second shim from the top...

On the rebound side, keep the cover shim and the fulcum (smallest one at the top) and remove every other shim. Basically divide the 8 stack in half.



This would be my guesstimate. Bit more agressive than the straight stacks you've been running so far but try and let us know.




mobil1syn and bdkw1 I'm not a shock tunner, I just try shit, no idea how far off that is from ideal situation.
 

Jeffh555

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To play devil's advocate, I find that flutter stacks can be confusing for novice tuners.

I'd go to a straight stack of 8s, and feel what that does. I believe in making big changes so you can figure out what's too much (or too little). If it's too light, then you have all the 10s and make a stack that's half 10s, half 8s.

If I was you, I'd buy a pair of 125lb/in springs for the rear, but you might be able to get where you want to be with just valving and save some time.
 

Eddie315

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To play devil's advocate, I find that flutter stacks can be confusing for novice tuners.

I'd go to a straight stack of 8s, and feel what that does. I believe in making big changes so you can figure out what's too much (or too little). If it's too light, then you have all the 10s and make a stack that's half 10s, half 8s.

If I was you, I'd buy a pair of 125lb/in springs for the rear, but you might be able to get where you want to be with just valving and save some time.
I agree with you that its alot of information for someone that has no idea what they're doing. But I came here to benefit from the knowledge and experience of others and pretty much do exactly what they tell me to do. The front came out pretty damn good and I can feel the effect of the single .012 shim on top of the pyramid. It definitely helped with bottoming out on big stuff while still being comfortable at lower speeds. I should probably do split spring rates too but these are what was in stock and I didn't want to wait 5-6 weeks.
 
Joined
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socal
All 4 shocks have 10 compression 8 rebound. Fronts have a single 12 on the top of the pyramid like bdkw1 recommended. I didn't have enough to do the same to the rear but that wouldn't have helped in this situation anyways. This picture is the front stack with the 12 on top.

id argue some of the harshness in the rear is from the front not being firm enough to transfer to the rear. get the crossover in the game and add 1/2" of preload to the front.

To play devil's advocate, I find that flutter stacks can be confusing for novice tuners.

I'd go to a straight stack of 8s, and feel what that does. I believe in making big changes so you can figure out what's too much (or too little). If it's too light, then you have all the 10s and make a stack that's half 10s, half 8s.

If I was you, I'd buy a pair of 125lb/in springs for the rear, but you might be able to get where you want to be with just valving and save some time.

8s for sure will be too soft. if he drops off a ledge it will go straight to bump. id argue the 10s are too light as well but if he likes it run it.
 

Eddie315

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791
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Videos of front and rear. Both taken at the same speed in the same place. I'll probably need bump stops in the rear.
 

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bdkw1

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Flutters are like directional bleed. In some cases they can create a ratcheting effect. On comp it will suck the back down.

Removing shims form a stack can cause you to get bent shims on an 8 stack. As light as that thing seems to be you might be OK.

I would open up a bleed hole more before doing a flutter.

I don't have good enough internets to watch the videos right now, maybe tomorrow.
 
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