Chiner Plasma or Metal cutting Miter Saw

[4Eyedturd]

Are most plasmas 220v? Is there a range the 110v ones are? Trying to make sure I have a plug big enough down the road if I get one.

 

[[memphis]]

Are most plasmas 220v? Is there a range the 110v ones are? Trying to make sure I have a plug big enough down the road if I get one.

125v China units are garbage. 3/16 will be a challenge. They also fly through consumables because it’s a cheap pos. You can buy dual voltage but purchase something with a decent torch head

 

[rockyota83]

Are most plasmas 220v? Is there a range the 110v ones are? Trying to make sure I have a plug big enough down the road if I get one.

the hypertherm air 30 works on both 120/240 and it also comes with the adapters to plug it into both, along with the built in air compressor and it weighing only 20 or so pounds makes it one of my favorite tools. i wouldnt buy a 120v plasma

the only negative is the price

 

[montrose818]

I would get both. Right tool for the right job.

I just got a Primeweld Cut60 which has very good reviews and is cnc ready. You dont need a 5hp compressor for a plasma. I have a chop saw, but in my experience its been as useful as tits on a bull.

​​​​

 

[Clemson13]

A good horizontal band saw with a roller conveyor, and a metal circular saw for cutting down sheets. I've got a heavy worm gear skilsaw that runs a metal blade and I prefer it to the actual Milwaukee metal cutting saw. It is heavy and has no guards to keep hot chips from burning you, but you can see the blade. The weight keeps it planted and cuts smoother extending blade life. Search for a used bandsaw, like a do-all c916 or something that will run a 1" blade.

The only time I use a porta band and or dry cut saw is at a jobsite because of easy transport.

Ok, im going to go against Irate norms and actually listen to you I am currently searching for a heavy worm dirve skillsaw. Cant find any used around here for sub 200 since you last posted this and they ALL are the high speed wood saws. I am considering just ponying up for this:

https://www.amazon.com/SKILSAW-OUTL...op?ie=UTF8#customerReviews&tag=91812054244-20

You dont happen to know any reason not to?

Then i just have to find the deal on a 1" blade band saw........

 

[Etyler2]

No $100 pawn shop chop saws? Seem pricy.

 

[Dethmachinefab]

Ok, im going to go against Irate norms and actually listen to you I am currently searching for a heavy worm dirve skillsaw. Cant find any used around here for sub 200 since you last posted this and they ALL are the high speed wood saws. I am considering just ponying up for this:

https://www.amazon.com/SKILSAW-OUTL...op?ie=UTF8#customerReviews&tag=91812054244-20

You dont happen to know any reason not to?

Then i just have to find the deal on a 1" blade band saw........

I've never seen that saw in person, but the first time you need to rip a 1/4" plate down to size it will be worth every cent.

Here's one on eBay. Pretty sure it's the same as mine.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Skilsaw-SP...B&pageci=94c08889-0db5-4ba0-bd92-31b9b200e4fd

 

[arse_sidewards]

Your neighbor's ears are gonna be ringing.

 

[Clemson13]

I've never seen that saw in person, but the first time you need to rip a 1/4" plate down to size it will be worth every cent.

Here's one on eBay. Pretty sure it's the same as mine.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Skilsaw-SP...B&pageci=94c08889-0db5-4ba0-bd92-31b9b200e4fd

My first project is going to be ripping up sheet for a fire pit. I love this cost outlay vs 3k for a hypertherm. Do you not have any issues with that saw being a wood based saw at 5300 RFM vs the metal version i listed at 3600 RPM? I cant seem to find may cermit blades that say they are good up to 5k+.

Or is this another case where me being an engineer and focusing on numbers too much is killing me

Your neighbor's ears are gonna be ringing.

Uhhh......fuck em Good thing i also listened to pirate and bought not in a zero lot line HOA

 

[Dethmachinefab]

My first project is going to be ripping up sheet for a fire pit. I love this cost outlay vs 3k for a hypertherm. Do you not have any issues with that saw being a wood based saw at 5300 RFM vs the metal version i listed at 3600 RPM? I cant seem to find may cermit blades that say they are good up to 5k+.

Or is this another case where me being an engineer and focusing on numbers too much is killing me



Uhhh......fuck em Good thing i also listened to pirate and bought not in a zero lot line HOA

I'll see if it's got an rpm tag still on it. Seems slower than other wood saws.

 

[ChiScouter]

Ok, im going to go against Irate norms and actually listen to you I am currently searching for a heavy worm dirve skillsaw. Cant find any used around here for sub 200 since you last posted this and they ALL are the high speed wood saws. I am considering just ponying up for this:

https://www.amazon.com/SKILSAW-OUTL...op?ie=UTF8#customerReviews&tag=91812054244-20

You dont happen to know any reason not to?

Then i just have to find the deal on a 1" blade band saw........

I bought the Milwaukee sidewinder because that is what I had been using and what everyone that I know had. I am not a big worm drive fan for wood but for metal I would have looked long and hard at the Skil as I think worm drive has advantages for steel cutting

 

[Clemson13]

I'll see if it's got an rpm tag still on it. Seems slower than other wood saws.

Thanks for taking a look. I think you have completely sold me on this method. Nice thing about i is I can throw a saw in the truck real easy and break down a sheet dang near anywhere with power like my fathers without having to drag around a full plasma setup.

 

[Clemson13]

Well i went ahead and bought a worm drive skill saw with a metal blade. I make poor decisions so i bought the new model that has the low speed etc.

HOLY SHIT. I get why Dethmachinefab said it was the only choice to buy one to rip up plate. I have some 3/16 scrap in a big section that i wanted to cut up into coupons to practice my tig on. I put up a fence and started ripping up strips with the saw. It cut like butter. Perfect cut, mirror finish, no slag, no bur, cut reasonably quickly. Amazing. I put off cutting so many things because I HATE to use a grinder. This is so much better and a fraction of the noise.

It does kind of blow getting showered in tiny little steel chips

 

[arse_sidewards]

Well i went ahead and bought a worm drive skill saw with a metal blade. I make poor decisions so i bought the new model that has the low speed etc.

HOLY SHIT. I get why Dethmachinefab said it was the only choice to buy one to rip up plate. I have some 3/16 scrap in a big section that i wanted to cut up into coupons to practice my tig on. I put up a fence and started ripping up strips with the saw. It cut like butter. Perfect cut, mirror finish, no slag, no bur, cut reasonably quickly. Amazing. I put off cutting so many things because I HATE to use a grinder. This is so much better and a fraction of the noise.

It does kind of blow getting showered in tiny little steel chips

What blade?

 

[billybob_81067]

What blade?

I've had good luck with these...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/7-1-4-42-T...916904&hash=item35e75a54eb:g:55IAAOSwsMVZbzjO

 

[Clemson13]

What blade?

The one that came with the saw . It is a skilsaw 42 tooth carbide blade, no idea how good it is other than reading that the diablo blades are better. Looks like my local lowes/HD stock 8" metal blades so I do not need to keep a stack of them at home.

The thing i need to make sure i have right is how much pressure to put into the cut. Do i keep pressure on it cutting agressivly or sit back a bit and let the saw do its thing with minimal foward force. I suspect that greatly affects blade life.

 

[arse_sidewards]

Well considering what I know about carbide in the machine shop I would force that bitch into the metal exactly however hard makes golden brown chips.

 

[Clemson13]

Well considering what I know about carbide in the machine shop I would force that bitch into the metal exactly however hard makes golden brown chips.

I thought a beautiful deep blue was the colour to go for? Somehow i seem to be killing it at getting vibrant blue chips.

 

[arse_sidewards]

I thought a beautiful deep blue was the colour to go for? Somehow i seem to be killing it at getting vibrant blue chips.

There's a lot of variables. Blue chips wouldn't bother me.

At $25 a blade it doesn't really matter either way.

 

[Pocahontas]

When I use a regular miter saw to cut random metal I kind of easy into it. Lightly pressing probably an 1inch a minute in 3/8 material or so but that is generally cutting flat pieces vertically.

I thought you wanted brown/ just turning blue chips, thought dark blue/black ment it was getting too hot. Thats for regular steel though, sounds like you made the right choice for you on the circular saw.

 

[Wendle]

Makita saw in the first post is badass.
We just bought one for our cabinetmaking shop to deal with a joinery contract with a heap of decorative metalwork attached to it.

1800 cuts through 3/4" solid bar and 900 cuts through 3/4" schedule 40 pipe (actually metric equivalents, but close enough) on the blade that came with it and it's still cutting like a champ.

 

[[memphis]]

To update this thread I also picked up a Milwaukee wormgear saw to slice up box tube. Holy shit... it works and it works well. Still have my big bandsaw but it couldn’t do these shallow cuts I am wanting to copy from Miesers Willys build. The cut edge is COLD, minimal sparks (I’m building in a tarp garage) and next to zero clean up on the cutting edge. Plasma moved way down the list...

 

[gozuki]

;n255172]To update this thread I also picked up a Milwaukee wormgear saw to slice up box tube. Holy shit... it works and it works well. Still have my big bandsaw but it couldn’t do these shallow cuts I am wanting to copy from Miesers Willys build. The cut edge is COLD, minimal sparks (I’m building in a tarp garage) and next to zero clean up on the cutting edge. Plasma moved way down the list...

Where's the saw/blade?

 

[[memphis]]

Where's the saw/blade?

Milwaukee doesn’t offer this model anymore, it’s an 8.25” saw

I installed an 8” Diablo metal blade.
$130 for the tool and new blade.... very happy with the outcome! I’d pick up a second saw just to have in case I roast this one

 

[Firstram]

;n255761]
I’d pick up a second saw just to have in case I roast this one

I've been cutting wood stone and steel with my Skill 77 for 20 years. That saw should last a lifetime, save your money

 

[Dethmachinefab]

Nice! I knew y'all would like a metal blade on a worm drive saw. Only thing to look out for is metal chips getting into the brush/winding vent area. I'm cutting up some huge box tubes and mc channel with one the next few weeks, and I will try and get a few pics.

 

[[memphis]]

Nice! I knew y'all would like a metal blade on a worm drive saw. Only thing to look out for is metal chips getting into the brush/winding vent area. I'm cutting up some huge box tubes and mc channel with one the next few weeks, and I will try and get a few pics.

I’ve been shaking the saw out over the garbage after each cut to mitigate that issue

 

[MigGunslinger]

;n256619]

I’ve been shaking the saw out over the garbage after each cut to mitigate that issue

Glad the saw is working out for you, I think these blades are the best kept secret in metal fabrication, the super clean, straight, and ready to weld cuts you can get are really nice. The biggest downfall is those chips, they get everywhere and if you are cutting on concrete and you step in them they will stick to the sole of your shoes and you will track them in the house. That and you can actually feel yourself losing hearing with no ear protection on.

It is probably old news to many of you but most worm drive saws (not Makita) measure 1-1/2" from the blade to the side of the guard, making setting up a guide fence extremely easy like the yellow level below.


Found some old pics of the Chevy bed floor I cut down, Not sure if there is any cleaner way to cut something like this:

 

[ZSK]

...It is probably old news to many of you but most worm drive saws (not Makita) measure 1-1/2" from the blade to the side of the guard, making setting up a guide fence extremely easy like the yellow level below.

filedata/fetch?id=257567&d=1609790980

It's a post like this that makes me question if I'm even breathing correctly. I've been using a normal circular saw for years and always fighting with the motor over hanging my guide and running into my clamps when all I needed to do is cut from the other direction. Sheesh I feel dumb.

 

[[memphis]]

It's a post like this that makes me question if I'm even breathing correctly. I've been using a normal circular saw for years and always fighting with the motor over hanging my guide and running into my clamps when all I needed to do is cut from the other direction. Sheesh I feel dumb.

I was thinking the same thing after I reread your post and the post above about the 1.5" fence... my blade stand off is 3.25" from the backside LOL