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HELL BOUND

HELL BOUND

Well-known member
Joined
May 27, 2020
Member Number
1574
Messages
481
I picked up this table a couple years ago, it's what I plan on building my chassis on. I've wanted to make its height adjustable and the table easily movable.
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Picked up a 8 pack of scaffold adjustable legs from Northern tool for around 100 bucks. They are rated for 24 thousand pounds a piece. Way over kill but will do the job.
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Cut some plate on the plasma table at work. Found some stainless pipe that was the right id to work as a guide.
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Should have used 309 for dissimilar metals but didn't have any. 308 will work, 1st pass
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I didn't get much time today, but I got the other legs cut and in place. It was hot and windy so I just used some 7018 so I didn't have to worry about my gas blowing away.
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I dont plan on moving it around often so I saved some money on non swivel casters from surplus center. The hole in the bottom of the scaffold legs was just smaller than 3/4. I drilled it out so that a 3/4 bolt will fit. My plan is to weld the bolt to the top of the caster plate and just let them swivel on the bolt. Probably wouldn't be the best if you pushed it around every day but for the little I will move it I think it will work fine. And be quick on and off.
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right on
make sure there is a way to keep the table from rolling

Nothing pisses ne off quicker than a table that rolls every time I try to lean on it
 
explain dissimilar metal weldint please - stainless pipe to regular steel?

didnt even know you can weld dissimilar...
 
montrose818 said:
explain dissimilar metal weldint please - stainless pipe to regular steel?

didnt even know you can weld dissimilar...
Click to expand...
those two will melt together
you will want to use a filler rod that is formulated for those two metals,
Some metals will melt, this case steel and stainless
but if you want to go aluminum and steel, not going to happen
 
montrose818 said:
explain dissimilar metal weldint please - stainless pipe to regular steel?

didnt even know you can weld dissimilar...
Click to expand...
309 would be industry standard , it's has a higher % of chrome and nickel in it. They both help with corrosion and strength at higher temperature changes. Being how the stainless pipe is just a guide I wasn't to worried about it, if this was something like a header that was going to see heat cycling I'd have ordered and used 309.
 
arse_sidewards said:
Yes they do. There's just no mixing beyond the microscopic level like with a normal weld.
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beings you are the smarter one, please show me how aluminum and steel can be welded in a normal welding manner as asked in this thread

not in a outer space NASA setting, but in a guy-building-a-chassis table setting

Im all ears o wise one
 
SomeGuyFromOlympia said:
beings you are the smarter one, please show me how aluminum and steel can be welded in a normal welding manner as asked in this thread

not in a outer space NASA setting, but in a guy-building-a-chassis table setting

Im all ears o wise one
Click to expand...
You're just salty that I pointed out your absolute statement was incorrect.

Would it really have been that hard to say "without fancy tech that isn't applicable here"?

:flipoff2:
 
arse_sidewards said:
You're just salty that I pointed out your absolute statement was incorrect.

Would it really have been that hard to say "without fancy tech that isn't applicable here"?

:flipoff2:
Click to expand...
all ears and I heard nothing backing up that blow hole you are running
 
arse_sidewards said:
You're just salty that I pointed out your absolute statement was incorrect.

Would it really have been that hard to say "without fancy tech that isn't applicable here"?

:flipoff2:
Click to expand...

what kind of tech? just curious, because I never knew you even could. sorry for the thread jack, not every day someone welds dissimilar metals :flipoff2:
 
SomeGuyFromOlympia said:
all ears and I heard nothing backing up that blow hole you are running
Click to expand...

First day on the fucking internet?

Can't take it when someone points out a technicality?

Why don't you fucking tell him about dissimilar metals welding and stop de-railing this thread. Not exactly hard to whip up a paragraph about base metal vs weld and how the material properties need to match enough for them to not crack or be too weak.
montrose818 said:
what kind of tech? just curious, because I never knew you even could. sorry for the thread jack, not every day someone welds dissimilar metals :flipoff2:
Click to expand...
Lots of fancy math and the ability to mix and lay out explosives very precisely.

Explosives welding is mostly used to make steel sheets and large diameter round (like for chemical tanks) that have some sort of other metal on top of them allowing them to be used in environments where the steel would react with stuff but the resulting coating is much tougher and thicker than galvanizing or paint/epoxy/power coat. But yeah, not applicable here. I don't think the people that do it even really consider themselves welders.

You'll also see friction stir welding done by robotic arms in some manufacturing settings but that's not special to dissimiliar metals. It's mostly used for aluminum and aluminum alloys.

For more "normal" kinds of fancy welding there's all manner of specialty consumables that are used but the processes themselves are rarely fancy.
 
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arse_sidewards said:
First day on the fucking internet?

Can't take it when someone points out a technicality?

Why don't you fucking tell him about dissimilar metals welding and stop de-railing this thread. Not exactly hard to whip up a paragraph about base metal vs weld and how the material properties need to match enough for them to not crack or be too weak.

Lots of fancy math and the ability to mix and lay out explosives very precisely.

Explosives welding is mostly used to make steel sheets and large diameter round (like for chemical tanks) that have some sort of other metal on top of them allowing them to be used in environments where the steel would react with stuff but the resulting coating is much tougher and thicker than galvanizing or paint/epoxy/power coat. But yeah, not applicable here. I don't think the people that do it even really consider themselves welders.

You'll also see friction stir welding done by robotic arms in some manufacturing settings but that's not special to dissimiliar metals. It's mostly used for aluminum and aluminum alloys.

For more "normal" kinds of fancy welding there's all manner of specialty consumables that are used but the processes themselves are rarely fancy.
Click to expand...
you showed em
I apologize, you know your stuff. Not even one technical actual method that has a name

next stop for you is the cooking thread pointing out how technically water doesn't just boil at 212* if you put it under vacuum
 
Well finally got around to welding the bolts on. It rolls pretty good. You can easily point the wheel in the direction you want,and push.
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Built a template to make drilling holes easy and hopefully way more accurate. Thought about just scribing the whole table but figured I'd screw it up. Mag drill sets against the plate, and after drilling a row you move the plate forward and pin the 2 back holes in the holes you just drilled. Nevermind the second set of holes on the template, Somehow I ended up a 1/16 off on my first try. Ordered some 5/8 shoulder bolts to use for pins, but they didn't show up on Fri like they were supposed to. So I won't get to finish drilling until next weekend
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I like the jig idea. I have been wanting to mag drill a pattern in my table but haven’t because of all the slop in the pin/cutter lining up to a centerpunch mark
 
Looks good! Doing it with a template is the way to go for sure. A friend of mine drilled his 5'x5'-6" on a 2" pattern by scribing and center punching! It looks OK but that's almost 900 holes with 3 chances to make a mistake on each hole. On a positive note, one cutter made it through the whole job!

Are the holes you're using to advance the template perfectly located? You won't end up with a hole pattern that is square due to additive error if they aren't.
Think about drilling 2 flat bar links the length of the end holes from your template, use those to space ahead 4', or whatever it is, by pinning it all together. Measure the diagonals to get it located and drill the corners.
Now you can drill both sides and use those holes to move up the table by pinning the end holes. If you don't flip or spin the jig everything will be square, assuming your template is straight.
 
Firstram said:
Looks good! Doing it with a template is the way to go for sure. A friend of mine drilled his 5'x5'-6" on a 2" pattern by scribing and center punching! It looks OK but that's almost 900 holes with 3 chances to make a mistake on each hole. On a positive note, one cutter made it through the whole job!

Are the holes you're using to advance the template perfectly located? You won't end up with a hole pattern that is square due to additive error if they aren't.
Think about drilling 2 flat bar links the length of the end holes from your template, use those to space ahead 4', or whatever it is, by pinning it all together. Measure the diagonals to get it located and drill the corners.
Now you can drill both sides and use those holes to move up the table by pinning the end holes. If you don't flip or spin the jig everything will be square, assuming your template is straight.
Click to expand...
How many shows did it take lol With all the ribbing under my 4x8 I could never keep a set pattern. I have thought about laying out a grid and center punching and then drilling dimples in it with something like a 3/16 bit and then drilling holes as needed. It wouldn't look very pretty but would probably serve my needs the best.
 
ChiScouter said:
How many shows did it take lol
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He actually finished it once he got it home, it took a long time! He finally powered thru at the tail end of his time off so he could bring my mag drill back. I asked him what his best daily hole count was, his answer was "0":lmao:

The table is awesome though, 1/2" plate with plasma cut 9" tall interlocked framing 15" on center and removable legs. Pull the legs and the top just fits under the plasma water table for travel.
 
Firstram said:
Looks good! Doing it with a template is the way to go for sure. A friend of mine drilled his 5'x5'-6" on a 2" pattern by scribing and center punching! It looks OK but that's almost 900 holes with 3 chances to make a mistake on each hole. On a positive note, one cutter made it through the whole job!

Are the holes you're using to advance the template perfectly located? You won't end up with a hole pattern that is square due to additive error if they aren't.
Think about drilling 2 flat bar links the length of the end holes from your template, use those to space ahead 4', or whatever it is, by pinning it all together. Measure the diagonals to get it located and drill the corners.
Now you can drill both sides and use those holes to move up the table by pinning the end holes. If you don't flip or spin the jig everything will be square, assuming your template is straight.
Click to expand...
Hopefully they are. I'll find out when my pins show up. The hougen bit makes a very nice hole and I don't believe the shoulder bolts will have any slop. With a tape the holes are good but oddly enough the first set of holes I put in the template I used a dial indicator to scribe my lines thinking it would be perfect and then it wasn't. It reassures me that if I just scribed the table it would get off somehow.
 
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