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Blacksheep10

Blacksheep10

Well-known member
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
91
Messages
495
D5m dozer, blade angle cylinder, ever removed the rear pin? Inner is welded cap, outside was 3 bolt cap, pin flush underneath. M12 threads in middle. No way to get slide hammer on, idler wheel is right there. Tried prying out, pen oil, heat next, wondering if I can drill through that welded plate on the outside and drive it out that way, what would be stopping me from that?
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I didn’t test how deep that drilled hole was, it’s not something stupid like a threaded puller with a skinnier shank goes and pushes on the backside plate if it’s through drilled is it?
 
I don't know heavy equipment, but could you make some sort of bridge out of scrap metal, so as you tighten the bolt it pulls the pin out?

Random internet pic, but similar concept that you could make way more low profile (bridge would just be an open hole ,not threaded. So the bolt head spins against it)

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Used the cover plate as a pry plate, got the bolt in that fucked up rusty hole as far as I could, used a pair of 3 foot prybars to put outward pressure on it and stretch the bolt, also drove wedges on that plate to preload and drove from the backside with the punch. I have a 4 pound hammer and kick ass punch beating and no movement. Just got it to 400° and then penetrating oil and still no movement
 
Might want to try to clean the chit off of things so you can actually see what you are working with

what does the book say?
 
Is the welded cap hole threaded? Could you put a porta power on that push it out with oil? What about a hollow cylinder to pull it out from the cap side?
 
Blacksheep10 said:
Used the cover plate as a pry plate, got the bolt in that fucked up rusty hole as far as I could, used a pair of 3 foot prybars to put outward pressure on it and stretch the bolt, also drove wedges on that plate to preload and drove from the backside with the punch. I have a 4 pound hammer and kick ass punch beating and no movement. Just got it to 400° and then penetrating oil and still no movement
Click to expand...

Use candle wax. Penetrating oil isn't going to do a thing for that kind of problem.

I use the candle wax trick at work all the time and it has never failed me.
 
Metric 12 mm hole on the cover side is only about an inch deep. I drilled a hole on the welded cap side and now I’m going to get a threader to put pipe threads and a grease Zirk in it so I can use the Milwaukee grease gun and try to do it that way.
 
Driving the 20 minutes back to the shop, do you have a link for the candle wax thing I will watch it when I get there
 
Blacksheep10 said:
Driving the 20 minutes back to the shop, do you have a link for the candle wax thing I will watch it when I get there
Click to expand...

Buy cheap candle sticks, heat area around pin thoroughly, push wax into the area around the pin. The wax will creep down between the pin and bore making it much easier to remove the pin.

If wax catches on fire the part is too hot.
 
OK. I am worried it is stuck in the end of the cylinder instead of in the bosses on the arm but I will see if I can get some in there
 
Think I am putting it back together and hauling it to the shop, it was going to go a short distance over to another job but now making the socket for the gland nut and everything will just be easier in the shop if I can’t get the cylinder off. I will just leave the body of the cylinder on the arm and use the overhead to take the Rod out and put it back in
 
What is the purpose of removing the cylinder? If repacking the cylinder you are much better off leaving the cylinder mounted in place. Where is the local Kitty road tech?
 
1oddtech said:
What is the purpose of removing the cylinder? If repacking the cylinder you are much better off leaving the cylinder mounted in place. Where is the local Kitty road tech?
Click to expand...
In hindsight I probably could have busted the gland and remove the rod without fucking shit up and then taken it back to the shop and resealed everything. Probably could’ve put it back together in the field. I like working on shit in my shop, and the dozer is now inside my shop where the cylinder is staying on the machine and the chain hoist is taking the rod out for me. Getting cylinder off and done/reinstalled today was going to save me 2 20 mile lowboy hauls. Literally didn’t think of disassemble in the field as I assumed gland would be insanity tight. The 48” pipe wrench and a small cheater popped it with minimal effort. Figured I’d be building a spanner to fit the funky gland notches and putting 4 digit ft/lbs on her.
 
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