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Cast yokes vs forged

Im4yotas

Im4yotas

@LuckyCloverRacing
Joined
Feb 25, 2021
Member Number
3549
Messages
219
Loc
SoCal
Obviously, forged is more better, but how many people are breaking cast yokes? Is there a difference in max operating angle?
 
For my personal situation, I'm looking at 32 spline np205 1410 u bolt yokes.

Cast
Screenshot_20210422-154528.png

And

Forged
Screenshot_20210422-154238.png


I did a bunch of googling and the only failures I could find were drag racers running cast 1310 yokes. What were you seeing that failed?

I take it you are talking about pinion yokes breaking on contact with rocks. That makes more sense.
 
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I have a Spicer cast 1410 on my mid shaft were it can’t get hit. Didn’t see the need to go forged. I have the Northern DT forged on the axles and tail of the 205. I have a spare NDT forged that came off the front of the 205 before I switched to CV flange. The U bolt style forged look like they have more angle than cast strap.
 
Are you talking on your diffs? I've twisted a bunch of 1350 cast yokes, and usually I'd have to change yoke with ujoint as a wear item. The forged have been alot better, the ears still get pretty smashed up and make ubolt removel/install a pita but I haven't twisted one in a few seasons. If your talking on your tcase cast you'll be fine with cast.
 
If you're looking at buying new I don't see a reason not to go forged. My 1410 Northern Drivetrain yokes were under $100 each if I remember right from Busted Knuckle. Why risk ending a run early on a cheap yoke.
 
Hyde said:
Why risk ending a run early on a cheap yoke.
Click to expand...
Because if I build with that philosophy, I will end up nickel and dime-ing myself into a $200,000 build. I don't mind spending the money if it is an actual problem, I just don't remember ever seeing someone have issues with it before.
 
I've broke a cast yoke on a D60. Was a 1310 OEM (think Spicer) yoke, that I had installed when I built my own ProRock 60. I replaced it with a forged yoke, and the forged yoke was slightly longer, resulting in a slightly shorter rear driveline. Wasn't an issue to continue using the existing driveline, but it did take some of the limited compression capability. ... When I built the next rig, I switched to all forged yokes (both F/R and axle/T-case) and upgraded to 1350s.
 
I used a forged yoke on my jeep buggy rearend, but not that I needed a forged yoke. I just needed a yoke, figured forged was better, and the price was fine. I think the big improvement I was seeing was most stock cast yokes have the small nub to keep the caps from spitting out and the forged one I got has the full semi circle flange on it. I know sometimes the nubs break off from abuse.
https://www.yukongear.com/productdetails.aspx?ProdID=3615 Seems prices have gone way up on these.
 
gozuki said:
Why?
Click to expand...
no straps or u bolts and they spin on rocks easier without getting galled up, and spare/uninstalled shafts dont need to be taped up so the caps dont get lost

and i come from the toyota world where theyre standard equipment and pretty much never a problem/rarely ever break which is impressive
 
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