Cast Iron Welding, What's the Skinny on Specialty Nickel Wire?

['84 Bronco II]

I have some cast iron welding in my future (knuckles & center section) and have been going crazy doing research and trying to figure out what kind of wire to use. I have a Millermatic 211 that is currently setup with .030 ER70S wire and 75% CO[SUB]2[/SUB]/25% Ar. I am well aware of the need to preheat cast iron and slow cool, but I don't really have much personal experience welding cast and want to maximize my chances of success. I tried repairing a crack in a cast piece of my wood stove over the summer and it went poorly, which leaves me concerned about trying to weld the axles. It could have just been the type of cast iron since I have no idea what kind it was and some are supposedly extremely difficult/impossible to weld.

Everything I read says that specialty nickel wire is best for welding cast iron (ENiFeCl or Ni55) and minimizes your chances of getting cracks. The issue is this stuff is expensive, and requires a unique gas mix (98% Ar/2% O[SUB]2, [/SUB]75% Ar/25% He, etc) and I don't want to buy another bottle. I ran across "NI55-G" wire that is supposedly "gasless", but I can't find any information on this type of wire (Here's a Listing) which leaves me a bit apprehensive about taking the gamble.

I have also heard that 309L wire is a more economical alternative to Ni55/ENiFeCl for welding cast iron, and I believe it can be used with my current shielding gas (please correct me if I am wrong).


So what should I do? Just be a man and weld it with ER70s and cross my fingers it doesn't crack, pick up some 309L wire and use it with my current shielding gas, or take the gamble with the "Ni55-G gasless" wire?

I am not as concerned about welding to the knuckles since I can get a nice hot, uniform pre-heat in the oven/gas grill and stick them back on after welding for a controlled cool-down, but the center section has me more concerned. I figure I will try to pre-heat it as hot as I can reasonably get it with my MAP gas bottle and weld it, then wrap it with welding and shipping blankets. The problem is that my shop is not insulated or heated, and I worry about it cooling off too fast since it is winter (average daily temperature is below freezing where I live).

 

[HELL BOUND]

I've allways used er70s2. Even on 14 bolt cast. Yes it will leave a little crack where you stop, either feather grind it out or push the puddle back into it when you start again. Get a weed burner for the center section and a temp stick is a easy way to make sure you are keeping the heat good while welding, and some cheap fire blankets to wrap it with afterwards to keep slow cooling. 309 would be a good alternative, im not sure what gas you need to run with it. 309 stick welding would be a cheaper route if you have access to a stick machine. You could also get the nickle rod but the guys at work say its very watery and runs shitty. My vote is just man up and use er70s2.

 

[ThePanzerFuhrer]

Those are more than likely cast steel weld it up with any old 70ksi wire and you’ll be fine. Just a little pre and post heat and your good to go. Do a spark test, the sparks are bright and sharp steel, dull and lazy iron.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Those are more than likely cast steel weld it up with any old 70ksi wire and you’ll be fine. Just a little pre and post heat and your good to go. Do a spark test, the sparks are bright and sharp steel, dull and lazy iron.

Pretty sure dana used cast iron for both. 14b centers and toyota knuckles are cast steel. I've welded on both with just er70 and some pre and post heat. Forced air heater works great for this.

 

['84 Bronco II]

Pretty sure dana used cast iron for both. 14b centers and toyota knuckles are cast steel. I've welded on both with just er70 and some pre and post heat. Forced air heater works great for this.

I believe you are correct. The specific axles in question are a '78-'79 F250 Dana 44 and an old full float Dana 60 (unsure of application since the BOM is illegible and the lug studs do not match the Dana 44).

 

[BUCKWILD]

neither of those are "cast iron" it is not strong enough to take the loads required, thery are cast steel

 

[Byro]

I believe you are correct. The specific axles in question are a '78-'79 F250 Dana 44 and an old full float Dana 60 (unsure of application since the BOM is illegible and the lug studs do not match the Dana 44).

I welded a double shear setup on my D44 back in the day with my 110 Lincoln machine, I didn’t know any better I was a dumbass high school kid. Gave her full heat and double passed it, never cracked or broke and I hammered on that axle in my XJ for years.

Warm em up and burn em in!