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CarterKraft's Gates

The same customer wanted some doors for his RV shed. The shed opening is 25' wide 14' tall. I looked at many ways to do these but with the materials the shed was built with these doors needed to be pretty light and not have a lot of weight extended on the columns.
I settled on a vertical bi-fold design. Since the doors will be clad with cedar they needed appropriate support spacing to keep warping down as much as possible. If they were mine they would get R panel like the rest of the building.

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I used 2"x3" 16 ga material with 2"x2" 16 ga runners.
I used some monster 8" bullet hinges 3 to a hinge just to be sure, I think 2 would be fine really.
I got the frames knocked out pretty fast, I ran everything straight and wrapped the joints with 1/8" x3" flat strap cut 3" long. That gives you a weld joint 1" into the adjoining tube and is really fast to build. For the hinge connections I used some short pieces of the 1/4" x3"x3" angle iron wrap the tube, hopefully that will keep any flexing out of the thin tube at the hinge HAZ and keep it from cracking with the load spread out.


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The angle clips really tie the diagonal supports into the frame as well.
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I wanted the ends of the doors to be attached to the building at all times. Where this building is there gets some high winds through there and it would be hard to manage if they were loose.
Since the customer is a electrical contractor I wanted to use some uni-strut roller assembly's to both guide and support the doors.
After a few tries I came up with this setup. It keeps everything straight and supported. This will get welded in to the corners of the doors that were already hung because I changed my mind. :shaking:

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On to hanging. To make it easy to do I welded a 3x3x 1/4" angle to the doors full length. That let me get the hinges welded out and aligned perfectly on the ground and I just had to make vertical welds to attach the doors to the columns, both reinforcing the columns at the same time.
You can see the uni-strut track in these pix too.

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Then paint and wood get this.


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A series of cane bolts on the inside drilled into the concrete have kept it locked in some serious winds. I originally only had the horizontal pins and they would get bent in a wind storm, but I didn't do the cane bolts yet because the concrete was not poured.
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Dads shop was not big enough to fit the boat straight in, and it was a 2+ man job to get it rolled back in there sideways, not fun.
He dreamed up an extension for the shop to add the needed square footage and I helped him refine the design to something we could build and install and be able to reverse if permit (or lack of permit :flipoff2:) problems came up.
My electrician buddy suggested we build a gate to "shield" passers by from the newly installed extension. We liked that idea as it gave him and my mom more security as well.

H post is 10 ga 4x4 with 16ga 2" crossmembers and diagonal.
The gate is 16ga 2x2 with 10ga 2x2 hinge and latch stiles.
It opens both ways for person access but will only open 90* to the outside due to the hinge arrangement.


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I wanted my dad to build this extension correctly, proper footers/slab new stud walls with drywall and brick etc. with the roof tied into the existing roof.
He got some $30k quotes and said fuck that, I agreed.
We drew up a concept but had some disagreements about roof tie in due to the low height of the residential eve.
I drew it up in CAD and found a solution that I thought would work and allow overhead door installation proper headroom etc.

We pre-fabbed the walls and trusses at my house in the AC and hauled them over to his house to get it built.
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We had some trim made that installed under the drip edge and then formed a gutter on the r panel running over the "high" of the panel making a leak proof transition. Trim/roof color picked to match the existing trim color and roof color for best as possible blend to existing for lack of permit acceptance.
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That gets it dried and and the overhead door installed. I had hell finding a door company that would actually read their catalog and order/install a low overhead room door. It requires some special double tracks but is doable with very little headroom once you find a competent shop.
We insulated it with 1" EPS foam board. Should have painted the red iron:shaking:.

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About this time there was a big sale (I can't remember why?) and these liftmaster garage door openers where $75....
So I picked one up and started trying to figure out if I could make it work.
I I had to modify the rear truss gussets just a bit but it was pretty easy really.
Now we have a electric door.
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I was sure this was your full-time job until I read that it wasn't. Your side job is a combo of problem-solving and art. :beer:
 
Thanks Its a disease :lmao:
Wish I could carry a disease like that. Bought a good MIG back in 2013 to build an axle back for the Pontiac. Haven't had a chance to do anything since, but seeing your work has me bargaining with myself to dust it off between other life work.
 
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