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This carb applies to lots of vehicles~ Jeep, Ford and etc... I know it's a common one. I have a pretty vast experience in Aisin/ weber carbs, but have yet to rebuild one of these. Just a quick question, as I am sure many here's knowledge base is better than mine on these.

Motorcraft 2100 2 bbl carb. off a mid seventies F100 4x4.

Where I started:
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Where I am now:
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I just tore the thing down and am going to put it back together in a bit.. I noticed in an exploded parts diagram the float on some have a "float spring" that goes here. Some have this spring, and some don't? How integral is this spring for function??? If I have to order one, it's cool... was hoping to get it done sooner, but can wait I suppose.

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Gotcha... not sure why this one is absent. I can almost say to a certainty this carb hadn't been rebuilt. I will order one. Thanks guys! :grinpimp:
 
The 2150 version from the full size jeeps had an altitude compensation function as well. I ran one on my 360 for a loooong time before the motor swap. If you google enough, you'll find plenty of offroad mods that can be done to prevent flooding/fuel sloshing out of the bowl. The last version of mine would dang near run upside down.
 
The 2150 version from the full size jeeps had an altitude compensation function as well. I ran one on my 360 for a loooong time before the motor swap. If you google enough, you'll find plenty of offroad mods that can be done to prevent flooding/fuel sloshing out of the bowl. The last version of mine would dang near run upside down.

This seems to be the consensus on these stout little carbs. I am looking more into it now, especially the High Altitude compensator. I live at 7500 feet and wouldn't mind that perk. The thing is jetted right on the money for where I am at though with 54's in the bowl.

Already ordered the dam spring... shipping was more than the part. :laughing:
 
Fuck that turd.

Holley Truck Avenger ftfw.

I'm trying to keep everything somewhat original... The 360 on the parts truck has a 4 bbl manifold and stock Holley 600? I think... Supposedly the mileage improves a tad with that set up, but haven't fully explored that one yet. The perks, at least from what I have read thus far, with the 2100 set up is improved climbing/ angles. Seemed to be a good go to for the Jeep's/ Ford's that ran them in off camber places.
 
I'm trying to keep everything somewhat original... The 360 on the parts truck has a 4 bbl manifold and stock Holley 600? I think... Supposedly the mileage improves a tad with that set up, but haven't fully explored that one yet. The perks, at least from what I have read thus far, with the 2100 set up is improved climbing/ angles. Seemed to be a good go to for the Jeep's/ Ford's that ran them in off camber places.

Holley's are easy to set up for wheeling just the same as that 2100. Extend the float vents into a T high in the air filter and use center hung float(s) and she'll be fine.
 
Fuck that turd.

Holley Truck Avenger ftfw.

Seriously? :laughing:

2100/2150s are some of the best carbs ever made for off road applications and are a hell of a lot cheaper to rebuild than buying a truck avenger...

This seems to be the consensus on these stout little carbs. I am looking more into it now, especially the High Altitude compensator. I live at 7500 feet and wouldn't mind that perk. The thing is jetted right on the money for where I am at though with 54's in the bowl.

Already ordered the dam spring... shipping was more than the part. :laughing:


I live at 7,000' and I have had my rig everywhere from 3,000' to 11,000', and it runs just fine throughout that range without having to screw with it. I am not sure the extra complication of those late AMC carbs is worthwhile. My 2100 equipped Bronco ran great at 7,000' without even without messing with the jets before I tore it down to the frame.
 
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Holley's are easy to set up for wheeling just the same as that 2100. Extend the float vents into a T high in the air filter and use center hung float(s) and she'll be fine.


The truck avenger has all that done, plus sprung side hung floats iirc. Best carb I ever put on an engine. A stock 360 would need to be jetted down, but that takes like 15min.


Im also aware of what a 2100 series carb is good for. Had those too. I'll still take the Holley.
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The Ford carb will work just fine , plug the EGR ports in the manifold . Make sure the the gasket mating surfaces on the EGR plate are not burnt out and are smooth and a flat surface . A new float and a non adjustable power valve from a Holley about a 10.5 will fix you up fat . Always remember the pump check valve . And check choke pull off operation and choke heater all will be fine . Those carbs were in service for over 40 years the must be able to work correctly , don’t you think ? I have a few laying around for parts if you need something , I’ll check to see what I have for you .
 
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The Ford carb will work just fine , plug the EGR ports in the manifold . Make sure the the gasket mating surfaces on the EGR plate are not burnt out and are smooth and a flat surface . A new float and a non adjustable power valve from a Holley about a 10.5 will fix you up fat . Always remember the pump check valve . And check choke pull off operation and choke heater all will be fine . Those carbs were in service for over 40 years the must be able to work correctly , don’t you think ? I have a few laying around for parts if you need something , I’ll check to see what I have for you .

Copy all that. The kit came with power valve, accelerator pump and the usual. The choke pull off was actually super clean and no tears in the diaphram. The only part I needed was the little float spring and that's been ordered. :grinpimp: Thanks though! The whole EGR plate is rather interesting. I scraped any crud that I could see out, but might need to run a little pipe cleaner through it or something. Will prolly just leave it intact for now, it isn't hurting anything I don't think. The gasket mating surface is pretty clean actually.
 
First step of every dent side I owned... take the cast 2bbl manifold, 2100, and throw them away. See how far you can possibly throw the duraspark as well. Remove approximately 8 miles of vacuum lines that do nothing. Replaced with aluminum intake, q-jet, and MSD. I pretty sure I doubled the horsepower.

Youre wasting time and just fucking around.
 
First step of every dent side I owned... take the cast 2bbl manifold, 2100, and throw them away. See how far you can possibly throw the duraspark as well. Remove approximately 8 miles of vacuum lines that do nothing. Replaced with aluminum intake, q-jet, and MSD. I pretty sure I doubled the horsepower.

Youre wasting time and just fucking around.

Oh. Ok.
 
First step of every dent side I owned... take the cast 2bbl manifold, 2100, and throw them away. See how far you can possibly throw the duraspark as well. Remove approximately 8 miles of vacuum lines that do nothing. Replaced with aluminum intake, q-jet, and MSD. I pretty sure I doubled the horsepower.

Youre wasting time and just fucking around.

Send the 2bbl cast manifolds and 2100 carbs to me... I'll take em.

Those 2100's are fucking beasts. Simple and reliable.

Anyone in here buy those new 2100's off of e-bay and give them a try? I remember someone on the other site which shall not be named was going to get one and see if it was worth a damn. If they're any good I might pick up a few to have on hand. I have a couple of old dump trucks with 4bbl carbs on them that I'd rather have a 2bbl on. Would also prefer manual choke too. Is there any easy way of converting an electric choke carb to a manual choke?
 
I have a 2 barrel and cast iron intake off of a 360 but I dont think you want to pay shipping on 90 lbs worth of junk.
 
Send the 2bbl cast manifolds and 2100 carbs to me... I'll take em.

Those 2100's are fucking beasts. Simple and reliable.

Anyone in here buy those new 2100's off of e-bay and give them a try? I remember someone on the other site which shall not be named was going to get one and see if it was worth a damn. If they're any good I might pick up a few to have on hand. I have a couple of old dump trucks with 4bbl carbs on them that I'd rather have a 2bbl on. Would also prefer manual choke too. Is there any easy way of converting an electric choke carb to a manual choke?

Wouldn't that just be a manual choke kit? Remove the electric choke, install manual. Seems like any old school parts store would have something to accomplish this. Probably made by Doorman and available in the "Help" aisle at the local VatoZone, O'reilley's etc.
 
Not a whole lot different internally than an edelbrock with a holley type accelerator pump. Easy to work on, easy to tune, dead nuts reliable once dialed in. In my experience I had a lot more issues with my Holley carbs and all their tiny passages getting plugged up, Edelbrock just worked and the passages were large enough that a little dirt didn't strand you on the trail.
 
First step of every dent side I owned... take the cast 2bbl manifold, 2100, and throw them away. See how far you can possibly throw the duraspark as well. Remove approximately 8 miles of vacuum lines that do nothing. Replaced with aluminum intake, q-jet, and MSD. I pretty sure I doubled the horsepower.

Youre wasting time and just fucking around.

Oh please, what's wrong with Duraspark? Can you show any evidence whatsoever that an MSD setup will make anymore power on a relatively stock engine?

Of course a 4bbl setup is going to make more horsepower because they can move much more CFM than even the largest venturi 2bbl, but you could have just as easily run a 4100, which is essentially a 4bbl version of a 2100 and achieved the same results.
 
Oh please, what's wrong with Duraspark? Can you show any evidence whatsoever that an MSD setup will make anymore power on a relatively stock engine?

Of course a 4bbl setup is going to make more horsepower because they can move much more CFM than even the largest venturi 2bbl, but you could have just as easily run a 4100, which is essentially a 4bbl version of a 2100 and achieved the same results.

Gots to git it wit a bunch o cash and some hp yo! The 360 I have just purs with the current set up thus far... totally content with it. :grinpimp:
 
Oh please, what's wrong with Duraspark? Can you show any evidence whatsoever that an MSD setup will make anymore power on a relatively stock engine?

Of course a 4bbl setup is going to make more horsepower because they can move much more CFM than even the largest venturi 2bbl, but you could have just as easily run a 4100, which is essentially a 4bbl version of a 2100 and achieved the same results.

With just fords? Or amc vehicles as well? They would always puke their guts and leave you stranded. It became common place for me to have a spare in the glovebox. Duraspark is junk. I could buy the 'street fire' MSD box for $99 and never had an issue again.

More power? No. It actually run? Yes.

Youre right, I couldve ran a 4100. All this was 10+ years ago when I could buy a used intake for <$50 and the same with the qjet. For $200 i had a reliable setup that was worlds better than factory shit.

Dent side 4x4 were <$1000 farm fresh. Those years are over with.
 
I don't know about now but it used to be a Q Jet rebuild kit was 17 bucks and a 2100 rebuild kit was 65 bucks. Only did Motorcrafts if someone else was buying.
 
With just fords? Or amc vehicles as well? They would always puke their guts and leave you stranded. It became common place for me to have a spare in the glovebox. Duraspark is junk. I could buy the 'street fire' MSD box for $99 and never had an issue again.

More power? No. It actually run? Yes.

Youre right, I couldve ran a 4100. All this was 10+ years ago when I could buy a used intake for <$50 and the same with the qjet. For $200 i had a reliable setup that was worlds better than factory shit.

Dent side 4x4 were <$1000 farm fresh. Those years are over with.

Funny, I've never had an issue with my Duraspark systems on multiple vehicles, some of which I've owned for over a decade :confused:

I don't know about now but it used to be a Q Jet rebuild kit was 17 bucks and a 2100 rebuild kit was 65 bucks. Only did Motorcrafts if someone else was buying.

When was that exactly? I have rebuilt many 2100s over the years and don't think I've ever spent more than ~$20. In fact, Rock Auto has 4 different kits listed for a '75 Bronco ranging from $13.42-$28.79 :laughing:
 
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