Capra axle deadbolt for the kids

[YotaAtieToo]

Geometry r hard, cut the links 1" shorter and wound up at 12 3/8"..... Looks much better though.

Moved the shocks outside the mount and link to the outside, looks like it will clear, probably with some rubbing at full lock.

I mostly did it for more triangulation in the rear, but if it works in the front that's a bonus.

Triangulation looks better with the shorter links.

Motor is tight in every way.

Slammed body? This is full bump.

Once the upper links are up higher on a riser, I'll have a ton of room to bend the links for more clearance. Question is should I bend them flat with the skid then down right at the axle, or just way up high even with the drive shaft as much as possible?

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Tempted to order one of these, but I think it may be a good excuse to design something in fusion 360.

 

['84 Bronco II]

12.375" is probably pretty good if you are going to stick with 4.75" tires. I'd bend the link so that you have maximum clearance at your beakover (middle of your wheelbase.

You will definitely want a link riser to keep the pinion roll in check with the portals. I could print you the same link riser I am using on my Capra, but by the time you pay for shipping, it will cost almost as much as the Amazon options you could get quicker. I personally like the dual riser option better.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

12.375" is probably pretty good if you are going to stick with 4.75" tires. I'd bend the link so that you have maximum clearance at your beakover (middle of your wheelbase.

I already have it adjusted out to about 12 5/8" right now, although I can play with it a bit as I haven't made the rear links yet.

I run the 4.75s on the capra at 13" and I like it, this should have a much better break over, but no 4ws or dig.

You will definitely want a link riser to keep the pinion roll in check with the portals. I could print you the same link riser I am using on my Capra, but by the time you pay for shipping, it will cost almost as much as the Amazon options you could get quicker. I personally like the dual riser option better.

I haven't ran one on the capra yet, with the servo in the way, it's a bit harder. Haven't noticed an issue, but will do it either way.

I like the dual better also. With the ends on the inside, it works out about the same triangulation as the center one anyway. I might try to make some temp ones out of aluminum until I can figure out how to model one on fusion.

Did you design yours or just print a file? Do you know where to find a capra axle model I could upload to fusion?

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Also build the front links, I just sleeved the all thread for the lowers, it's only 2.5" of tube, so my idea of plug welding studs in either end wouldn't save much wieght, not to mention it's not the worst place to have extra wieght.

Uppers I just threaded the 4mm aluminum and didn't add a sleeve, they're so short I don't see them bending. Plus motor clearance is tight right there. Also moved them to the outside of the upper mounts for more clearance also. The motor did fit as it was but it was rotated on the skid such a small amount, I couldn't have drilled a new hole. Maybe I should just drill 2 new holes?

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Battery mount that came with the chassis kit fits like it's meant to be there. Also used the servo mount as a spacer for the long horn to clear the diff.

So far the misc parts in the kit have been pretty handy. The extra $25 over just the rails is well worth it, plus a bonus nod2 trans.

The servo and track bar mounts fit snug in the link mounts and act as an 18mm riser. I thought I had 2 of the one on the left, but I guess that's the track bar mount. There is 2 of the one on the right though.

I think if I just drill and tap a hole down into the axle truss it should be good? That's basically all the servo mount is and company's sell risers that only bolt to that.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Drilled and tapped the housing

Trans spacer

Moved the trans over ~1/4" so I could rotated it with out the 2 holes interfering with each other. Need to get longer counter sunk screws and a good counter sink bit.

Angle actually points f&r outputs right at the diffs.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Switched to the original chassis for the taller rear shock mounts. Sanded the skid area to help with dragging along. Fwiw, first time I've ever messed with carbon Fiber, so I had no idea what to expect. Seemed to sand down with the flap wheel just fine.

Haven't decided if I'm going to keep this bumper the chassis kit came with. Doesn't look terrible, but is kinda big chunk of aluminum. Probably keep it for now.

Ghetto spacers (ordered a 2 16pc kits) as I'm not going to waste my time making 3mmx3mm spacers when I can buy them for about a quarter a piece.

Front end is done. Just need to make permanent rear links, mount esc and rx then mount body. Would love some boat side/sliders, just don't know how to go about that yet.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Took some measurements on how far I could bend the links at what point was 5/8-3/4" most of the way. Bent them up with my brake line bender.

Cut a slit with cut off wheel for plug welding.

Semi hot tack, seemed perfect. This is fuck core stainless wire from Amazon BTW. Handy for those once in a blue moon deals.

I realized I could use the offset hiems on the upper link to gain an 1/8" plus I had an 1/8" of clearance, so I bent them a bit more to more closely match the frame profile. Added the little jam nuts to get my length back.

Moved the upper links back one hole to tip the pinion up for more clearance. Portals are just slightly tipped back, I don't think it's enough to matter, but we'll see.

Links kiss at full bump.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Zip tied the electronics in since they hopefully won't be there long. Didn't take a Pic cause it looks like shit

First drive

Ordered one of these, hopefully it will be helpful mounting the body.

Ghetto fabbed 2 mounts on so we could hit the test rocks.

Not sure what to do with these shocks. The spring set they came with is like firm, firmer and wtf.

The softest ones may work, but I'll have to cut them up for anything but full droop. I can't let the front axle droop out all the way or the driveshaft binds, which is fine because the shocks are super long.

Also, how loud should the trans be? It seems excessive to me, but it was only $30 or whatever. I did grease it.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

So got the rhino axle for the capra today. Plan was to swap the 22% OD r&p and stock portal gears with the 42% portal gears and stock r&p that were in the axle I robbed for this.

Turns out the rhino axle has a larger stub shaft, so portal gears won't swap. Which puts this thing at 60% OD currently

As I'm typing this I realized I have stock portal gears and 22% OD r&p I could swap in to bring me down to a more reasonable 40%.

 

['84 Bronco II]

Did you design yours or just print a file? Do you know where to find a capra axle model I could upload to fusion?

I design all of my parts, but I can send you my file if you have a way to print it. I haven't seen any axle models, but then again I didn't spend much time looking for one. I just spent a lot of time with a pair of calipers measuring.

Also, how loud should the trans be? It seems excessive to me, but it was only $30 or whatever. I did grease it.

It's not super quiet, but it shouldn't be disconcertingly loud. Is your pinion to spur too tight? That will make it really loud.

Here is a video of mine running with the 11T 5 Slot brushed motor and Robinson Racing 1417 17T pinion:

Here is a video of it running with the Fusion Mini16 and LaTrax 14T pinion:


It's looking good. I would personally mount your battery on a boat side instead of up on the highest part of the chassis, and please swap those button heads mounting the trans for some proper flatheads I really like the way your rear links came out!

Another thought, It would not roll the portals forward like how you have them. It effectively lowers your rear axle when your car is nose up and makes it easier to hang up on rocks at the bottom of a climb. Mine is perfectly vertical and I have contemplated rolling it the opposite direction because of this.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

I design all of my parts, but I can send you my file if you have a way to print it. I haven't seen any axle models, but then again I didn't spend much time looking for one. I just spent a lot of time with a pair of calipers measuring.

Gotcha, I was thinking it would be cool to have the riser key into the shape of the housing. I'd think there has to be a way to upload a 3d model and then design it on that model. But I'm also on like day 6 of any designing at all.

No way to print, yet.

It's not super quiet, but it shouldn't be disconcertingly loud. Is your pinion to spur too tight? That will make it really loud.

Here is a video of mine running with the 11T 5 Slot brushed motor and Robinson Racing 1417 17T pinion:

Ok, that's basically exactly what it sounds like. Thank you.

Here is a video of it running with the Fusion Mini16 and LaTrax 14T pinion:


It's looking good. I would personally mount your battery on a boat side instead of up on the highest part of the chassis, and please swap those button heads mounting the trans for some proper flatheads I really like the way your rear links came out!

Ya, I figured that would be better. Although I thought forward might make up for a little high.

Also part of the plan got some longer ones today.

I'm pretty happy with them. Hopefully the tack is strong enough. I was debating too much vs not enough. But I mean really, it's connected to a plastic hiem

Another thought, It would not roll the portals forward like how you have them. It effectively lowers your rear axle when your car is nose up and makes it easier to hang up on rocks at the bottom of a climb. Mine is perfectly vertical and I have contemplated rolling it the opposite direction because of this.

That's a good point, I hadn't thought it compounding on climbs. Would be nice if they made a housing that wasn't 90*

Wonder if you could make some sort of beef tube type thing that you could cut the tube and sleeve it back at an angle.

 

['84 Bronco II]

Wonder if you could make some sort of beef tube type thing that you could cut the tube and sleeve it back at an angle.

Dlux makes Capra Cs that fit on the splines Wraith/AR60 style ends. I thought about going that route on my XR mod AX10 axle, but the cost for all the parts was more than just buying a Capra axle However, it would give you clocking options.

With the modular SCX10 pro portal axles like I am running, you could probably re-tap the tubes fairly easy, or just make some cusyom tubes to get some clocking.

Here's what my Capra riser looks like:

 

[YotaAtieToo]

By any chance is the capra axle the right size you could slip this on and clock it where ever you want?

 

['84 Bronco II]

By any chance is the capra axle the right size you could slip this on and clock it where ever you want?

That's the SCX10 Pro Portal tube and box I mentioned that I am running in my 1.9 truck. I am pretty sure the tube diameter is the same size or bigger than the Capra axle.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

That's the SCX10 Pro Portal tube and box I mentioned that I am running in my 1.9 truck. I am pretty sure the tube diameter is the same size or bigger than the Capra axle.

Well there you go, order a spare capra housing and those ends and see what you can do. Those plastic parts are cheap.

Side note, I found sets of stock capra axles(Actual axial, not xhicom) for like $75. I had no idea they were that cheap, but good to know for future builds.


Also, what's the go to martial for boat sides? I was thinking a plastic I could bend would be cool.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Probably good the local hobby shop is 1 1/2 hours away.

Went in for a $0.50 pin and these some how these guys fell into the bag.

Had to mount one up real quick. These stock capra plastic beadlocks are actually pretty decent.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Got the tires and body mounted

I ordered some offset mounts to replace the front hack ones.

 

['84 Bronco II]

The Treps look good! Were the Krawlers you replaced G8 or Predator? My Treps are barely starting to get broken in and I'd be curious to know how you think they compare to the Krawlers, especially if they were Predator compound. They seem pretty hard compared to my J-Concepts tires.

Also, you need to get the body trimmed to match the skid angle

 

[YotaAtieToo]

The Treps look good! Were the Krawlers you replaced G8 or Predator?

I brought them like 5 years ago and I don't think I was even aware that there was two different compounds at the time or maybe there wasn't. So I'm not 100% sure but I think they're g8.

They're not going away, just the only other tires I had were the stock capra tires which are terrible.

My Treps are barely starting to get broken in and I'd be curious to know how you think they compare to the Krawlers, especially if they were Predator compound. They seem pretty hard compared to my J-Concepts tires.

My first impression of I was kind of disappointed they were not as soft as I was hoping. Hopefully they break in

Also, you need to get the body trimmed to match the skid angle

I really like the look of this body as is so I might just leave it alone and maybe get another body to cut up for competition

Edit: out for the first real test. The treps and these shocks suck maybe my krawlers are predator compound.

I've tried a couple different things with the shocks, but they have way too much friction in the seals.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Went and played around for a bit

The tires and shocks made it kinda disappointing. I think maybe the biggest issue with the tires is the foams, they're pretty stiff for how light this thing is. I may do some star cutting or something to soften up the tread area.

Shocks just don't want to move. Even with no springs. I tried full droop, then 50/50 droop, then pulled the top half springs and it's still like a skate board. I haven't got real shock oil yet, but I did spray some wd40 in to help the seals slide. Maybe that's the problem? Or are they just junk cheap shocks...

At one point, the kids wanted to switch tires. The rhino stub axle wouldn't fit the trep wheels, so we swapped 2... Lol.

With 2 rigs running, the batteries don't last as long, this came in clutch.

Overall, it was definitely more fun with a 2nd 10th scale. We all took turns playing follow the leader.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Any ideas on shocks? Going to put real shock oil in and try to guess again on springs.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Well I trimmed the upper coils on the front, added oil and removed 1 of 2 o rings. I remember frank saying 2 rings right next to each other on shocks is actually bad. Not that it applies to this, but it seemed to help free them up a lot.

I have it with only the coils cut in half on top of the piston in the rear, but it's a bit tall and droops to easy, so might trim the coils and add some limiter coils under the piston also.

Trimmed the body

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Star cut the foam in the treps and broke them in with a drill and sand paper. Hit the ~50 grit first, then ~200. Should help them start working better.

Cut the coils down in the back bother top and bottom. Seems to sit a bit better.

 

['84 Bronco II]

Any ideas on shocks? Going to put real shock oil in and try to guess again on springs.

I've been happy with the Traxxas GTS shocks after I did the piston and seal mod on them. I know White Trash says it's ghetto, but I just use the cheap black hair ties my wife buys by the hundreds to control unloading on inclines.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

I've been happy with the Traxxas GTS shocks after I did the piston and seal mod on them.

I'm not ready to toss these shocks, I think I just need softer coils.

Although, maybe it will work fine, looking at it just now, it has about the same flex as the capra, which I've been really happy with. I think the double o-rings was my biggest issue.

 

['84 Bronco II]

I'm not ready to toss these shocks, I think I just need softer coils.

Although, maybe it will work fine, looking at it just now, it has about the same flex as the capra, which I've been really happy with. I think the double o-rings was my biggest issue.

It will be interesting to see if you have big issues with the leaking with the single seal. The seal preload was the biggest issue I had with my GTS shocks until I put a thinner spacer in between the seals and made a spacer to keep the cap 1 turn "loose." I am running 20wt oil from Losi in mine. Acxess Spring is a good place to get custom springs. They have a really good lookup filter that lets you narrow the selection by spring dimensions and rates to make it easy to find what you're looking for.

Also interested about what you think with the Treps broken in. It seems like mine are starting to do noticeably better now that they are starting to get some feathering on the leading edge.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

It will be interesting to see if you have big issues with the leaking with the single seal. The seal preload was the biggest issue I had with my GTS shocks until I put a thinner spacer in between the seals and made a spacer to keep the cap 1 turn "loose." I am running 20wt oil from Losi in mine. Acxess Spring is a good place to get custom springs. They have a really good lookup filter that lets you narrow the selection by spring dimensions and rates to make it easy to find what you're looking for.

Me too, If it does, I can do what you're saying and trim the plastic spacer down.

Good to know thank you. These are about a 6mm outside diameter, but there is some room for a bit bigger, possibly 8mm. Going to try and get to a park before the kids baseball game today and see how it works.

Edit: that site has nothing in my size 5-8mm dia and 20-50mm length pulls up nothing.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Shocks and treps (now on the capra) did much better today. It's like the tires had a hard coating that needed to wear off or something. That and softening up the tread area of the foam with the star cut.

Didn't get any real pics, but I got some videos of the kids doing a decently technical line. I also finally saw a few spots where the center clearance on this had an advantage over the capra.

Poser shot