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Can someone explain this gooseneck hitch?

Derp

Involuntary Chest Slapper
Joined
Oct 23, 2020
Member Number
2976
Messages
291
This hitch came on a truck I bought. I can't find anything identifying the brand of the hitch, and after trying to twist and pull in various ways, I'm not sure if it's just rusted into place, or I'm just not doing it right... It was under a plastic bedliner for who knows how long when I got the truck, previous owner didn't even know what it is.

Can anyone help un-dumb me?

20210914_151302.jpg
 
Yeah, should have a pull release under one of the wheel wells that you pull ou and twist to lock open.

The do have a habit of getting rusted in the hole. You may need to put a bottle jack on the diff to push it out
 
The B&W Turnover Ball hitch is like that. We have it on our Tundra and you pull a lever from the driver's side wheel well.
 
That's not a B&W, those are square.

It may or may not use the same type of release, but it sure looks like it's supposed to twist and pull out in the Pic.
 
No levers or pull handles on either side of the wheel wells, and here's a picture looking up from underneath. I suppose it's entirely possible parts could be missing or broken,

Truck is a 2005 F250
20210916_121830.jpg

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That's a twist and pull. No levers. I have one on my 1 ton. They are notorious for getting stuck in that position.

Hose it with your favorite penetrating oil and get some big channel locks and start wiggling it. It may take a while but it will eventually twist and you can pull it out. Once it twists it will still take the penetrating oil and wiggling to get it out.
 
Definitely twist and pull, you can see the keeper and slot from the pic underneath. In the bed looking forward, twist the ball clockwise.

Power wash the fuck out of it and hose it down with oil.

Then hit it with your wife's purse.
 
That's an older style blue ox, no twist to remove the ball, it's just stuck in there.

This video show operation.

 
Maybe it's just because I don't have fancy simulation software that lets me design things to within an inch of their life but 30k seems kinda generous for a 3x5 tube held to the top flange of a frame with four bolts in one plane. :laughing:
 
I have one of those, hose it down with lube. If it twists, it will come out. Worst case, bottle jack on the pumpkin to push it out. I coat mine with Maxima chain wax since moving to the rust belt, cuts down on the sticking.
 
arse_sidewards said:
Maybe it's just because I don't have fancy simulation software that lets me design things to within an inch of their life but 30k seems kinda generous for a 3x5 tube held to the top flange of a frame with four bolts in one plane. :laughing:
Click to expand...
Yeah, I added some plates to mine to stiffen it up.
 
arse_sidewards said:
Maybe it's just because I don't have fancy simulation software that lets me design things to within an inch of their life but 30k seems kinda generous for a 3x5 tube held to the top flange of a frame with four bolts in one plane. :laughing:
Click to expand...
for the life of me i can not comprehend the design qualifications or reasoning behind most modular hitch design. I have 2 b&w hitches and a home brew hitch.

The b&w have 1 piece of 2"x1/2" angle iron and a 3/4 x 1-1/2 bar stock as the cross bars, wtf are they different

Wtf are the head plate so narrow?

My home brew is a modular flatbed style welded to a 34" x 36" x 5/16" or 3/8" sheet and i use 8, 5/8" bolts and i have a hell of a lot more confidence in it than the b&w's.
 
AK_F250 said:
That's an older style blue ox, no twist to remove the ball, it's just stuck in there.

This video show operation.

Click to expand...


Yep, this is it! A little penetrating oil and a few whacks with a hammer, and some wiggling around with big pliers and it came out, no latch holding it in. The spring loaded catch tab mechanism to hold it in place un the upright position seems a little... out of place? on something that is just big hunks of metal, but I don't see why it wouldn't work just fine.

Chain wax is a great idea!

30k on four bolts? Isn't the shear of a grade 8 1/2in bolt like 20k lbs? and I think tensile strength is usually more than shear? I think many of us non-engineers have gotten used to seeing things break in unusual, extraordinary failures that most of us have no concept of the strength of the materials we build with, and instead strictly adhere to a "IT NEEDS MORE METAL ON IT TO BE STRONGER" mentality.
 
Derp said:
30k on four bolts? Isn't the shear of a grade 8 1/2in bolt like 20k lbs? and I think tensile strength is usually more than shear? I think many of us non-engineers have gotten used to seeing things break in unusual, extraordinary failures that most of us have no concept of the strength of the materials we build with, and instead strictly adhere to a "IT NEEDS MORE METAL ON IT TO BE STRONGER" mentality.
Click to expand...


Neither the quantity of material nor the cumulative sheer strength of the bolts is what we take issues with.
 
arse_sidewards said:
Neither the quantity of material nor the cumulative sheer strength of the bolts is what we take issues with.
Click to expand...
So it's just the 3x5 tube and the single connection plane at the top of the flange then?
 
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