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Can I still get a solder-on charge port for a refrigerator?

JNHEscher

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Dogwood, MO.
My google fu must suck. I'm dead ass tired anyway.


So new, scratch and dent fridge we got a few years ago finally got plugged in yesterday. Checked it today and it has no chill. Compressor runs, but no cool/cold air at all. Dug around in it and found a bunch of oil that had ran down in the back of the freezer drawer. Rather than the piercing valve, I'd really like to solder on a port and possible stick a permanent gauge on it. Could be stupid, but it's what I have in mind. I need to stick some oil back in and I don't recall the piercing valve gizmos being set up for that, but it's basically the same threaded port.

Samsung pile of electronics, typical compressor layout.

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Traced the leak to a bad solder joint on the aluminum on the freezer evap from the factory. Already found a replacement.

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Should be able to get charge ports for any size tubing and just cut and solder.


Bonus points if they don't leak. :flipoff2:
 
Should be able to get charge ports for any size tubing and just cut and solder.


Bonus points if they don't leak. :flipoff2:
Think I'm just blanking on it tonight and don't know where to look. I can wander through Lowe's in the morning.
 
Yes, you can still get them. I'm sure I have a box of randos at work if you strike out I can mail you one. Just let me know roughly what size.
Will do. I forgot to stick my mic on it today. Think it's just 1/4" OD. I've got a gauge set somewhere as well and I think I'll need to find the QC adapter.
 
Get’em while you can, Biden will probably ban them soon.
 
Here you go, epay has them, you’ll be able to get the right key search words. I a fridge in my barn the probably needs to be charged, so I have to do the same thing.

 
Amazon probably has them. I get them from Grainger.

Not every found anyone locally to have them in stock so always order like 3 instead of the one I needed.
 
I'm gonna swing by Stone Supply on the way back to the apartment. Have to get some POA oil as well since a few ounces leaked out. I think they have R134A cans and connections as well.

Have to wait until next week to order the evap (and hope it's a good one).
 
Are you sure it is 134?

Not sure I ever worked on anything other than a car that was 134
 
Yes you can.... Fucking Amazon has them.... :smokin::smokin::smokin::smokin:
I recently replaced a condensor coil on a fucking wine fridge.

Words of wisdom.
Silver solder..."Sta-bright 8" + clean and prep (solder is not cheep). Or Nitrogen purge with braze; I did the nitrogen purge (this gets tricky).
Use tubing expanders...fuck couplers.

Vacuume pump=must have! Clamp on amp-meter= nice to have. Fucking manufactures data plates are total shit! Pressures and compressor amp draw are your friend.

Don't worry about the oil unless you have a huge puddle of it.

Link to service ports.

 
Amazon probably has them. I get them from Grainger.
you can usually search a Grainger part number on Zoro.com, buy the same thing for cheaper than Grainger, and have it in a day or two. After you make a purchase, they send you 20% off coupons on a regular basis!
 
some of the jackboots won't sell you them if you don't have your cert
eventually someone will

'service port' is what you wanna be typing in

the 134 can taps will usually be automotive in connections, but you can adapter them all over the place\
I wouldn't worry about the lost oil, there's a lot in there to leak out before it becomes an issue
 
Gonna have to order the flare tees and oil.

Def need oil. The bottom of the freezer has a bunch in it.
 
don't get the tees, measure the stubs they left you and order the ones with the copper brazed to them
then order the next smaller size than the tubing those stubs are
they slip inside and you solder or braze them there

I don't like the bare brass ones because the rod doesn't flow as nice as it does on a copper/copper joint
 
don't get the tees, measure the stubs they left you and order the ones with the copper brazed to them
then order the next smaller size than the tubing those stubs are
they slip inside and you solder or braze them there

I don't like the bare brass ones because the rod doesn't flow as nice as it does on a copper/copper joint
Stubs are 1/4" OD as well.
 
so get the service port schraeder valves that have 3/16" tubing on them and they'll slip right in there when you pipe cutter the mashed ends off

if you later encounter larger ones like 5/16" or whatever, you crimp the larger tube around the 3/16"

they come in a pack of five and were like a dollar apiece last I bought them but that was a decade ago
 
Do you think that you could re-flow the aluminum joint??? You still need the service port (ports).
I ran a pressure test with 100lbs nitrogen for a couple of hours. Held vacuume for the same... Fucking wine fridge charged itself before I could shut the valve!
 
Do you think that you could re-flow the aluminum joint??? You still need the service port (ports).
I ran a pressure test with 100lbs nitrogen for a couple of hours. Held vacuume for the same... Fucking wine fridge charged itself before I could shut the valve!
Possibly. I have the stuff, just haven't gotten the talent yet as each part I wanted to try it on was filthy cast.

Looking at ports on Grainger now.

I'm gonna see about getting the evap out tomorrow.
 
OP.... Dang; they didn't give you much of a "service port" connection stubb. Cheep bastards!:mad3::mad3::mad3::mad3:

Just for shit and giggles.... Get a quote from a pro. But you have really nothing to loose by doing it yourself. Warranty???
 
OP.... Dang; they didn't give you much of a "service port" connection stubb. Cheep bastards!:mad3::mad3::mad3::mad3:
Sure didn't but they'll work.

I had this on a kill-a-watt to keep track of because we're off-grid with solar. Maxing out at 1.3 amps is what tipped me. Let it run overnight and no change in temp confirmed no freon. Found the oil dumped in the freezer later that day.
 
Got the evap out. Really wondered about those sealant kits I keep seeing, but I'm never really interested in those particular bandaids.

Couldn't get the aluminum solder to budge, so I suppose we'll just get a new one.

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