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Camping Audio system v3

rattle_snake

Fuckwits
Joined
Jun 23, 2020
Member Number
2156
Messages
1,486
Loc
Chandler, AZ
v3.0 of my camping audio system, New everything. Lighter, louder, more efficient. Bluetooth interface.

The goal of the system is to have medium volume music in my camp. I usually camp as far from other humans as I can (or at least it justifies large tires), however sometimes it is in a camp ground. So I want a strong low end but not blast my music far away. I want the system mobile, to be used with or without my truck camper, so 12v it is. The easy/cheap solution would be all-in-one PA gear and a generator, but I don't want to require AC power or hear genny. My vehicles have loud systems with subs but I have to crank it up to be able to hear it, dead battery, interior full of bugs. The stand alone system can be moved closer and run at lower volume. I wanted to keep cost low in case it gets stolen or rained on while I am away. I have a connection at Rockford, so total cost of the rig was way less than retail.

System architecture is basically same as all my other vehicle systems; single 10, 4 ch amp, one pair of mains.
So lightest/cheapest 10" sub, R2 dual 2 ohm. Grill is for another series but I was able to modify it to fit. Mains are T152 components. Amp is a full range class D, 125 x 4 into 2 ohms. Sub gets 250w, mains 62+62 for total of 375w.

Step one was to build a sub box. Used no fasteners, just clamps. Inset driver baffle distance of grill protrusion to help protect and give some style. Outside dimension are a 12.5" cube, however ID depth is not equal to the others, a cube is worst box shape for standing wave. But goal here isn't best audio performance.
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This equipment will get banged up and abused so finish needs to be durable and simple. No point in making it nice and perfect, even if you have moderate to severe OCD. So just oil based paint I had on hand, applied with a foam roller, because I'm too lazy to clean HPLV gun multiple times. Painted baffle red for some style. Could have painted everything red like my shop speakers, but it seems like a bit much.
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Main enclosures build in same fashion. Box volume is arbitrary, just made them as small as possible. With high pass filter on amp (@ 80 Hz) the cone won't move much and low frequency operation where box size matters can be ignored.
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Next step was to figure out how to mount and package the amp, panel and connectors. The Bluetooth adapter had long wiring and needed RCA adapters, but no room for them. Ended up adapting directly to the amp's 3mm input connector. Speakers connect with XLRs, as they and cables are cheap and easy. Can bypass the BT interface and use a 3.5mm cable too. One cigar jack and 2 USB jacks for phone charging or whatever.
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Bent up a metal box to house the stuff, but it had sharp corners and didn't seem right. So tried again with MDF. Had to figure out how to disassemble the 3mm connector to get the XLRs installed through their holes.
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Stuffed all the wiring in and tested the system. Still get a 0.5 V drop in 10 ft, of 10 ga cabling.
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Made some handles from a broken rein. Doesn't really go with theme but what I had on hand. Figured out rough center of mass and placed according, so they balance nice.
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Main use is to hang from camper jacks so made straps long enough. Can be placed on back, right or left sides depending on where my chair and beer cooler is. XLR cables are 6' and 10'.
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So how does it sound? About as expected I guess. A bit more capable that what it replaced. The main channels are turned way down to get the balance I want from sub. In an outside environment without reflections, it takes a lot of power to get low frequency energy. It will typically get used with a 'house battery' so don't have to worry about vehicle not starting. The volt gauge is handy. Compared to my shop audio system, it's a baby, but will do the job in it's intended environment.
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Next step for 'pimp my camper' was high current wiring. It can be used on anything with a battery using jumper cable type clamps also, but main use will be with cab-over so adding permanent connectors. Goal is to make it quick and easy to set up or break down.
Drilled a hole through rear wall into battery compartment to run wires to a panel mount jack. Extended wiring with a 10ga including blade fuse holder (30A).
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SAE jack on outside, no need to open battery door anymore.
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Set it up on the back end for an audio test. Speakers can be hung on jacks on left or right side of camper also. Didn't test for too long, to not annoy neighbors, so I guess it can be a little obnoxious...
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Next step is to wire a high current jack on the inside, so system can be used in there too. I tested it inside, it is a F'n monster! Similar to how same equipment would perform in a car. Pounds out the bass, way louder than needed. But that is just about right. Really happy with result. Amp stays cool, the last one would get really hot. Volt drop is not as bad with the improved wiring (13.5->13.2) with camper plugged into AC.
 
Nice job on those, way overkill I like it.

I got the parts express Blast box for this purpose and its a pretty slick setup.
 
Nice! Maybe add a solar charger for the battery?
Most of my trips are just a few nights and sometimes starting and moving truck around (launch boat, etc.) so I have not found a need for panels yet. Even if I run battery into the ground the truck batteries are isolated.

I could care less as long as I DO NOT HAVE TO LISTEN TO YOUR CHOICE in music!
Rock on rant over!:flipoff2:
Come on now, I'm sure you enjoy Slayer as much as me and everyone else.

To be honest I also hate the duche bags that blast their distorted shit all day and night. If turned down a notch or two even their choice of music would be much more tollerable....

I like to set up this system right around my chair so I can feel it and have a place to set my beer. And I'm old (43!) so I reach my beer limit and go to bed by 10.
 
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Completed the audio wiring on my Lance camper. I realized that the exterior bulkhead connector I had was only 12 ga, so I swapped it out for a 10 ga, and used the 12 ga one on the interior. Why? The internal wiring goes through bat sw, fuse and longer length of wiring so one step down in wire size for the last foot won't really matter. The exterior connection is direct and will be used the most.

I placed the interior high current power jack on the side of the kitchen cabinet. Plan to store the system up by mattress while travelling and can use it there too.
Also added a panel same as on the sub box, to charge phones or whatever. I had added one cigar jack long ago, but with family of four one charger wasn't enough. So now I have 2 cigars and 2 USB on the inside and more on sub box. Didn't really need switch or volt meter, but the whole panel assembly is really inexpensive. Wired the volt meter to the switch so it can be turned off and not be annoying at night. The volt meter gives a better indication of battery capacity than the simple lights on the monitor panel above it.

The interior wiring works OK and doesn't pop the branch DC fuse at full throttle, so calling it a win. Camper had 10ga THHN run to this location.

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Nice setup.
I have one of them stock refurbished stereo's in the dash, the memory drive has a week's worth of tunes in it.
Leave town hit play get home and not hear a song twice.
 
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