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Camper Slave same old dodge problems

PB52

Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2023
Member Number
6200
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It’s time to fix this truck, again lol. The truck needs ball joints and probably a steering box, again.

Circa 2013/14 I rebuilt everything on the front end. Here’s the list.

Non- center axle disconnect front axle

Synergy ball joints - have been a problem since install, I think they discontinued their first gen ones. Supposedly they were supposed to wear in. They were incredibly stiff from the beginning then wore out immediately.

Lee power steering rebuilt the factory box adding their 3rd bearing and ports, pump rebuilt, booster rebuilt, and added cooler, filter, and reservoir. Sector shaft now has play in it.

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2014 factory dodge steering with updated pitman arm.

Dodge Off Road track bar

Spintec dually hub conversion

Stock arms 3 inch lift springs

The truck drives white line to white line. 2 to 3 inches of center dead spot with no predictable directional stability. I don’t let my wife or daughter ride in it and worry about killing a bus load of nuns.

So when researching ball joints again, 2 groups come up. 1st is EMF, dynatrac, and Carlie. The 2nd is America Irons ball joint delete kit. I haven’t seen any reviews on street trucks running the deletes, only one you tube on it. I’ve read to threads talking about ball joints and boxes, just haven’t heard any opinions on the delete kits on street trucks.

I’m leaning in the EMF direction. Installing ball joints first then addressing the steering box. I can pull the box and have lee rebuild it again but the newer 6 bolt Delphi boxes seem to be the way to go….I can also order an ram and install it but I shouldn’t need it with the baby tires I’m running.


Any thought on deletes vrs EMF’s?
 
stock arms, 3" springs... any chance that's contributing?
 
FWIW , I have had good results with the EMF products I've used.

Have you tried increasing the caster to aid in the tracking of the steering?
 
I second the brace. Also make sure whatever tracbar ends you have stay tight - that imho is key to steering box life.

My friends with 2ndgens upgraded to the Delphi 680 box shared with the Silverados. The 6bolt one is supposed to be stronger again.
 
FWIW , I have had good results with the EMF products I've used.

Have you tried increasing the caster to aid in the tracking of the steering?
It is maxed out right now on the stock arm. Drove horrible at 2 degrees.
 
I second the brace. Also make sure whatever tracbar ends you have stay tight - that imho is key to steering box life.

My friends with 2ndgens upgraded to the Delphi 680 box shared with the Silverados. The 6bolt one is supposed to be stronger again.
I removed my steering brace when I welded on my front hitch. No noticeable change in steering.
 
I removed my steering brace when I welded on my front hitch. No noticeable change in steering.

The feature than matters more is the bearing support in the brace. That helps prolong the life of the box imho.
 
10 years is a good life for a box. I'd send it back to Lee and have them rebuild it. Should be cheaper than last time because the 3rd bearing is already there.
 
Do you need the 3” lift? Tires look small and evidently have a slide in camper.
Well after a decade I think my stock springs were melted down a long time ago 😆, but the Kore springs ride way nicer than the stock ones did.
 
I vote for the deletes. lots of people have them on street driven rigs and they have good success. Ill be adding a set to my 2013 when the ball joints get loose as far as steering play, it wouldn't hurt to also inspect the steering shaft. I dealt with a 2nd gen a while back that had a lot of play like you talk about. it ended up being a worn steering shaft.
 
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