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BW-1356 oil ?

roundhouse

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A friend of mine inherited his grandfathers 88 F150. It’s been sitting for 12-15 years .
I got it running with a new fuel pump
, filter and regulator .

New master cylinder booster calipers and hoses.

Working on Changing all The fluids

The t case drain plug will not come out
Stripped out the socket plug and then I tried using a chisel to turn it and it ain’t moving

I pumped out the oil and it’s clearly not ATF which the internet tells me the 1356 should have
It looks like a thinner version of the oil that’s in the axles . It looks like regular motor oil .

Where to go from here ?

Drill out the drain plug ?

Replace the oil with rear oil ?

Replace it with ATF ?
 
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Might be some kind of manual transmission fluid like syncromesh. Some people like to make shit harder than it is and dump the "wrong" fluid in transmissions/transfer cases because they think it's somehow better. I've never put anything but ATF in them and that's all I've ever known to be spec'd for them. If you have a way to stuff a hose in and extract the fluid that is there I'd fill it back up with ATF and forget about it.
 
Was concerned there might be some issue with combining ATF with whatever residual oil was still left inside .

It’s a nice truck
Has one small bit of rust in the floor.
The 302 has a skip, and I found one cylinder with low compression ,
7 were 125 psi or higher but the drivers side rear was 65 psi , which didn’t improve when I squirted some oil in the cylinder ,

I assume that’s low enough to keep it from firing ?

And the compression not improving with oil means a burnt valve ?
 
Ever seen 300 gagillion mile atf?
Yep, what’s in the trans doesn’t look terrific but I haven’t changed it yet , since changing the fluid on an old auto trans usually kills the trans .
 
Oil viscosity has to be friendly for the internal pump. ATF is usually spec'ed for cross-contamination reasons.

ATF, engine oil, syncromesh, etc. should all do the trick.
 
On my manual ford trans that spec ATF, I always ran Mobil 1 5w30 Full Synthetic motor oil. I ran them in the desert and never had a problem with them. Also ran that in the BW1356 as well without issue.
 
Was concerned there might be some issue with combining ATF with whatever residual oil was still left inside .

It’s a nice truck
Has one small bit of rust in the floor.
The 302 has a skip, and I found one cylinder with low compression ,
7 were 125 psi or higher but the drivers side rear was 65 psi , which didn’t improve when I squirted some oil in the cylinder ,

I assume that’s low enough to keep it from firing ?

And the compression not improving with oil means a burnt valve ?
ATF is still oil, it'll be fine long as the viscosity is low enough for the pump to work. General rule of thumb on a gas engine is 90-100psi minimum to run so yeah, 65 ain't gonna do it. Could be burnt valve and that's why it's been parked or it could be a sticky valve from being parked so long.
 
The pcv on them is routed to the intake runner for the #8 cylinder. Burnt valves/pistons and fucked rings are pretty common on that hole when the motor gets some mileage on it.

Are you getting a bunch of blow by?

And whatever you do, after you fix the compression issue, throw a catch can on there to help prevent the problem in the future. I know there’s a bulletin out there about moving the pcv fitting on the intake, but it’s best if you prevent it from burning any oil if possible.

Found that from broncolinks

I miss that miesk5 mother fucker from fsb/broncolinks. He was like a robot, always pulling up the most obscure documents and shit from Ford whenever you had a question.
The 5.0 in my bronco from a 1990 mustang also has a low cylinder and I’m pretty sure it’s the last cylinder on the drivers side .

Thought it might be a stuck Valve

I can pull the cover and see
Probabaly a burnt valve though since that requires removing the head to fix
 
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