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Bump Plate Material

HYDRODYNAMIC

HYDRODYNAMIC

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Lost in the forest
I smashed the bump plate/tube. 3/16 mild steel tube. Not surprised. Going to plate over the tube. Question is how much plate is needed? What are you running that is surviving?

1717461036891.png
 
Man, seems like you really fucked yourself by letting the flat side of the tube hit that head on. Shitty OEM half ton and smaller axles survive bump stop action (without fancy air bumps) at least long enough to bend the center section. :laughing:

I think if you'd have had literally anything other than bare tube there it wouldn't have bent in the first place so you probably don't need to do much.

I suppose you could glue on a scrap of thicker AL and then pin it with a couple bolts if you're trying to shave grams.... but realistically just throwing a scrap of 1/4 over it and never worrying about it again is probably the winning move.
 
I have nothing to add except that I've been wondering how much the plastic ends on bump stops give when in use.
Seems the answer is they don't.

Another piece of 3/16" on top of the old with a few spots welds would give you 3/8" of metal for the pad.
 
I went with 1/2 mild steel.
3/8 chromo I'd be fine with.

My plate has a center "fin" underneath it for reinforcement.
 
Let it dent, weld the dent, grind it smooth.

I know that's not your style and the rig shows it. Eventually it will make itself the thickness it needs to be to not dent. :lmao:

Edit: you'll need the reinforcement inside like mentioned but looking at it it's going to be a good amount of work. So I just put my KISS method opinion in.
 
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mobil1syn said:
you need support under it.

how much work you want to do to it?
Click to expand...
Even if he spans that entire gap on the tube to what look like the 1/4" reinforcement plates for the miter cuts?

Damn, I clearly don't understand how much force is involved there. :eek:
 
Wuz-A-zuk said:
Let it dent, weld the dent, grind it smooth.

I know that's not your style and the rig shows it. Eventually it will make itself the thickness it needs to be to not dent. :lmao:

Edit: you'll need the reinforcement inside like mentioned but looking at it it's going to be a good amount of work. So I just put my KISS method opinion in.
Click to expand...
He could hole saw it, toss a scrap of heavy-ish wall tube in there, trim it off a little below flush and then weld the hole saw scrap back on before welding and grinding flush. That would let the load bear on the bottom too.
 
Sean said:
Even if he spans that entire gap on the tube to what look like the 1/4" reinforcement plates for the miter cuts?
Click to expand...

im talking about under the plate. if he ties the upper and lower portions of the 2x2 tube he wont have any issues even with the 3/16 thats there.
 
mobil1syn said:
im talking about under the plate. if he ties the upper and lower portions of the 2x2 tube he wont have any issues even with the 3/16 thats there.
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Right. I understand what you're saying....I'm just surprised that slapping a piece of 1/4" on top of the existing truss, spanning all the way to the outer miter reinforcement plates isn't enough to stop it.
 
Sean said:
Right. I understand what you're saying....I'm just surprised that slapping a piece of 1/4" on top of the existing truss, spanning all the way to the outer miter reinforcement plates isn't enough to stop it.
Click to expand...

im not smart enough to answer the question, but im sure a train engineer can.

interesting playing around with this calculator
eicac.co.uk

Plate Deflection Calculator Simply Supported Rectangular Concentrated Load | EICAC

This calculator calculates the Maximum Deflection and Maximum Stress in a Simply Supported Rectangular Plate with a concentrated Load.
eicac.co.uk eicac.co.uk
 
It would be pretty easy to tie the two surfaces together with a slug of cold roll.
Then just another 3/16" over the top.
I'd think you would want something that doesn't need paint so stainless seems good.
 
CarterKraft said:
It would be pretty easy to tie the two surfaces together with a slug of cold roll.
Then just another 3/16" over the top.
I'd think you would want something that doesn't need paint so stainless seems good.
Click to expand...
yeah drill a hole drop in slug, weld up and polish off. Or drill hole thread plate, thread in bolt, weld bolt to dent and then cut off flush and smooth it out.
 
Brace it internally OR weld a pile of plate on top and change your bump zone ... end of thread right? :flipoff2:
 
I had already cut 1/4” SS plates 3”x3” to cap the tube. Then stopped.
The sides are what transfer the load. I fear a center slug would only dent both bottom and top faces.
Could cut out the tube to recess a thicker top plate down without loosing travel.
 
Yes you could recess a plate but then you're relying on only your weld to hold the plate in. Unless you let it stick out forward and behind to sit on the sidewall of the tube as well.

You consider cutting a diagonal slot through the dent, drop in a 3/8"- 1/2" on edge, "plug" weld it in then use a thinner (3/16") top cap just so the diagonal plate doesn't dent out the bottom of the truss.

If that all makes sense, I find it tough to explain metal fab sometimes via internet sometimes.:lmao:
 
I'd weld some 3/8 over the top and be done.

dumb question. how are the shock valved?
 
HYDRODYNAMIC said:
I had already cut 1/4” SS plates 3”x3” to cap the tube. Then stopped.
The sides are what transfer the load. I fear a center slug would only dent both bottom and top faces.
Could cut out the tube to recess a thicker top plate down without loosing travel.
Click to expand...

What if you just cut a 1/4" slot perpendicular to the tube, dropped a piece of plate in there vertical that's just below the surface enough to create an area to weld, weld it, grind and leave it?
 
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