What's new

Build me a solar setup

All I know about the RV is that it is "solar ready"
That Renogy kit is good for an RV or mobile install, but that's not what I'd recommend for someone who's currently looking at a ground mount system.

Generally for a ground mount you want higher voltage panels, ran in series, keep the voltage as high as you can till you get to charge controller. Allows you to run smaller (cheaper) wire, and lowers restive losses.

I'm guessing the 4kw inverter recommendation came from the 30amp RV plug, 120v * 30amp = 3600w, with little regards to actual power draw.
Monkeys does the 5th wheel currently have an inverter, or just a gen?

That quote is real weird, and I'm not sure how he's making any money. I doubt you could put THAT system together with new quality components for less than that, but you might be able to build a system better suited for you, for less.
All I know about the rv is that it is "solar ready".

Doubt it has any harware except a plug that leads to the batteries to plug a rooftop solar into.
 
I have been looking at this kit this morning.
Screenshot_20210926-122255_Samsung Internet.jpg
Screenshot_20210926-122337_Samsung Internet.jpg
Screenshot_20210926-122326_Samsung Internet.jpg
 
As I read it approx 2160 is what the panels produce. So, wouldn't that be what you could theoretically run without touching your battery bank.
 
to put things in perspective....I'm still cooking/eating/showering/shitting/etc in my camper. It has 200 watts of solar panels, a cheap PWM controller and 4 duracell gold cart batteries. Even during the winters up here at 8500 feet in elevation and running the heater almost constantly, the batteries never get low at all.

my log cabin has 2.4KW of panels, 1600ah of AGM batteries and a 48v inverter/charger 3500w and I'm swimming in power.
 
you sure like to have too much power.

I've lived offgrid full time for over 4 years and don't have anywhere near that much.

But ya, go for it.

Not if he wants to run an air conditioner for a bit or has other high draw uses
 
to put things in perspective....I'm still cooking/eating/showering/shitting/etc in my camper. It has 200 watts of solar panels, a cheap PWM controller and 4 duracell gold cart batteries. Even during the winters up here at 8500 feet in elevation and running the heater almost constantly, the batteries never get low at all.

my log cabin has 2.4KW of panels, 1600ah of AGM batteries and a 48v inverter/charger 3500w and I'm swimming in power.
Like I stated, I don't know how much I NEED only what these companies local suggest.

I appreciate the info on your setup. I'm all for saving cash and going smaller if I can.
 
Like I stated, I don't know how much I NEED only what these companies local suggest.

I appreciate the info on your setup. I'm all for saving cash and going smaller if I can.
which is why checking your battery level and charging off the truck or a generator for a couple days will give you a much better idea of how much power you actually need.

if you can get buy with adding ~2-4 more batteries and just a couple ~350 panels and a ~2kish inverter then you will be quality and money ahead building your own.
 
As I read it approx 2160 is what the panels produce. So, wouldn't that be what you could theoretically run without touching your battery bank.
you are always going to be on the batteries at night and for a few hours during morning/evening. if you can keep the highest loads during 11am-2pm then you will be "working off the solar" the most and having plenty of time to recharge. more or less, it comes down to the batteries. size the battery bank to handle what you need, then work backwards to build the solar capacity that can recharge them reliably over a 2 or so day period
 
Monkeys

Doesn't sound like you really know what you need. Just that you have a camper that needs powered.

I will share a bit more of my personal perspective of my 4 year offgrid living situation in an effort to help you.

We moved up here in January of 2017. We had ZERO solar experience or equipment. We had a little 2000w Yamaha generator (and bought another). We ran the generator 100% of the time for about 4 months before purchasing any solar equipment. The Yamaha would run for 12 hours on 1 gallon of fuel at which point we would start the other one.

Fast forward a few month of running the generator 100% of the time.... I finally got 4 duracell golf cart batteries (6v) and wired them up to a Renogy 2000w inverter, 30a Renogy PWM controller and 4 100w Renogy panels. This setup worked pretty good as we were heading into Spring/Summer and had plenty of sunshine. We kept the camper 30a plug connected to the inverter (also had a crappy 12v battery in the camper which stayed charged because it was connected to 'shore power' which was really the solar).

As our first summer of offgrid living was drawing to a close, I ended up buying more duracell golf cart batteries. I think I ended up with a total of 14 of them. Also got a 40amp Renogy charge controller and a total of 9 100w panels.

This setup worked really, really well for a couple of years.

I've since made some pretty substantial progress on my log cabin and we have pretty much moved in. This demanded a larger system: 1600ah of AGM batteries, 2.4kw panels and 48v, 3500w inverter/charge controller combo unit. Like I said earlier, I'm swiming in power.

My point with trying to explain all of this to you is actually pretty simple: You don't have to get a mega system to start out with. Start small and keep a couple of small generators around (with plenty of fuel). I bet you will be able to grow your system as you learn and as your power requirements grow...
 
As I read it approx 2160 is what the panels produce. So, wouldn't that be what you could theoretically run without touching your battery bank.
So that that's 2160 watts of panel in that kit. That means under test conditions after 1 hour, you'd have 2.16 KWh of energy produced. In reality you won't get 100% efficiency, so it'll be somewhat lower.

If you don't need 240 volts, the one growatt version of what you posted, https://shopsolarkits.com/products/...6&_sid=e6d42e13e&_ss=r&variant=39514141950092, would probably be enough. Still need to figure out ground mounts though.

1600ah of AGM batteries, 2.4kw panels and 48v, 3500w inverter/charge controller combo unit
That's 1600ah at 48v AGM batteries? A 73KWh battery bank? That's got to be huge.
 
That's 1600ah at 48v AGM batteries? A 73KWh battery bank? That's got to be huge.

no, it's a small system:

8 Renogy 12v AGM batteries. Wired in series/parallel to achieve 48v nominal. It's usually hovering right around 50.0v around sunrise.

I'm running my entire log cabin with this system. It's a floating system meaning NO grounding. Works great this way and powers plenty of electronics, lights, jet pump, etc. I can even plug it into the camper and run the A/C during the heat of the day. Most I've seen is 2000w of incoming solar power being generated.

Unfortunately I am going to have to 100% replace this system with something that is UL listed (Renogy stuff is NOT UL Listed). Sucks.
 
8 Renogy 12v AGM batteries. Wired in series/parallel to achieve 48v nominal. It's usually hovering right around 50.0v around sunrise.
When you series batteries the Ah don't add, so that would be a 400Ah 48V battery bank, 19.2KWh. Still 1000 lbs of batteries though. I was picturing a battery bank 4x larger.

That's a pretty good size battery bank, almost 4x's what's in the system that Monkeys or I posted.
 
When you series batteries the Ah don't add, so that would be a 400Ah 48V battery bank, 19.2KWh. Still 1000 lbs of batteries though. I was picturing a battery bank 4x larger.

That's a pretty good size battery bank, almost 4x's what's in the system that Monkeys or I posted.
batteries are the big issue, hence why the chevy volt battery bank rewired was suggested to me and why i suggest it to everybody. From a dollar to KWH point of view, it absolutely demolishes every other option available today. @16kwh
 
batteries are the big issue, hence why the chevy volt battery bank rewired was suggested to me and why i suggest it to everybody. From a dollar to KWH point of view, it absolutely demolishes every other option available today. @16kwh
The volt battery can be a good option, though it seems like price is creeping up. It's not something I'd suggest to everybody though, big lithium batteries aren't trivial, there's a lot that can go wrong. Not saying you shouldn't do it, just probably shouldn't be a first or even third project.
 
please expand on this. why do you need UL listing :confused:
The county building inspector mentioned the UL listing requirement. He is NOT the electrical inspector, but knows a lot. Plus it's what I'm reading online too...

I need buy an electronic copy of NEC and start studying up. Anyone know where to get a copy online? I don't mind paying. It seems like there may be a lot of knock-off out there. not sure...
 
batteries are the big issue, hence why the chevy volt battery bank rewired was suggested to me and why i suggest it to everybody. From a dollar to KWH point of view, it absolutely demolishes every other option available today. @16kwh
got any good links I can look up for info on this? I loosely follow Will Prowse on YouTube and have an account on his forum DIY Solar Power Forum but don't really follow solar stuff that much online. I would be interested in playing with Lithium batteries.... I may even get another inverter/charger to run it...
 
The county building inspector mentioned the UL listing requirement. He is NOT the electrical inspector, but knows a lot. Plus it's what I'm reading online too...

I need buy an electronic copy of NEC and start studying up. Anyone know where to get a copy online? I don't mind paying. It seems like there may be a lot of knock-off out there. not sure...
huh, that's strange. seems like more of an issue if you are selling the property. for the purpose of inspection, unhook everything and just run it all off the generator for him :lmao:

UL rating is likely why there is so many 'cheap' panels and such that aren't rated :rasta:
 
got any good links I can look up for info on this? I loosely follow Will Prowse on YouTube and have an account on his forum DIY Solar Power Forum but don't really follow solar stuff that much online. I would be interested in playing with Lithium batteries.... I may even get another inverter/charger to run it...
as for the battery, no i didn't find any "good" videos online, but i did find a few questionable ones and....damnit why can't i remember his name on here. he had a quality cast iron frying pan crack with his head, and he helped me out bigly understanding the solar stuff. I apologize for not remembering :homer:

basically, the biggest things i didn't like about some of the various youtubers playing with the volt batteries was that they seemed to use way undersized wiring for their stuff and several of them also oriented the batteries in such a way that the fluid cooling was no longer workable. those both seemed silly to me. Basically, once you get the batteries in "stock" removed from car form, you need to cut the electrical connection bars so that each segment is only running 48v. To reuse the water cooling without using all the stock controllers, you just need to add your own small circulating pump and a heater element to keep things from freezing. For evertyhing that I could find and that I can remember, it kept coming back to the individual cell monitoring is more of a "nice to have" and less of a "need to have" as long as you check periodically to ensure each 48v cellpack is still within the volt range tolerance. one or two cells in the pack can die completely and it isn't a big deal.
 


15 minute long video, this is new since the last time i looked into any of the videos. he's got more info links in the description section and he's using them for ebikes so there is a chance he knows what he's doing a little bit better :rasta:
 
I'm the guy with the Volt battery in my motorhome. And that other thing, too. 1,800 watts of solar, 4,400w Magnum inverter, Midnite Solar Kid MPPT.

Here it is on the bench a few years ago:

battery_small.jpg
 
Old thread but I'm bumping it anyway :flipoff2:

All this talk about solar, a buddy found some panels on marketplace for cheap, and they're local to both of us. Not sure if they're a good deal, or if they're old and beat? We were both thinking if they're a good buy of snagging some and setting then aside until we get around to installing them. Aside from what I've read here I don't know shit about solar power :laughing:
In my case I never lose power, so it would just be something to reduce my monthly electric bill, assuming it's something I can do myself cheaply.

Anyways, here's the listing for the panels:
Thoughts/opinions?
 
Those are old 2 bus bar panels. For the size there are much better ones, but $/watt is good if you have the space for them.. He also mislabeled his ad, they are only 205 watts. I'm sure it was just a typo.
 
I like the price
the power density is way low and might be even worse depending on how much handling they've been subjected to
someone surely has a good method of testing them for that, something about feeding power into them and they glow at the cracks in the PV cells...
 
Old thread but I'm bumping it anyway :flipoff2:

All this talk about solar, a buddy found some panels on marketplace for cheap, and they're local to both of us. Not sure if they're a good deal, or if they're old and beat? We were both thinking if they're a good buy of snagging some and setting then aside until we get around to installing them. Aside from what I've read here I don't know shit about solar power :laughing:
In my case I never lose power, so it would just be something to reduce my monthly electric bill, assuming it's something I can do myself cheaply.

Anyways, here's the listing for the panels:
Thoughts/opinions?

Testing open circuit voltage is an almost useless number. To get any information of value you would need an i/v curve. I'm guessing they are old and less than 75% of their original rating, or have a lot of failures starting. I personally wouldn't mess with it. Last time I was shopping it wasn't hard to find 25 year warranty brand new 400+ watt panels for $0.50/watt.
 
I like the price
the power density is way low and might be even worse depending on how much handling they've been subjected to
someone surely has a good method of testing them for that, something about feeding power into them and they glow at the cracks in the PV cells...
Its called EL imaging, and its expensive to get a camera setup to do it. An I/V curve can be done with homebrew stuff on a sunny day and would be useful enough to see if they where they are in their life.

IMHO you will start seeing a LOT of used panels coming up for sale in the future.
 
Top Back Refresh