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Build me a solar setup

Monkeys

Redhead weakness.
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May 19, 2021
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Been looking at solar for the new place, but decided to start a bit smaller than the $25k kit I was looking at.

It seems the latest size that has been recommended to run out 5th wheel on 30 amps is 4k watts.

The local guy quoted $4200 (approx) but he is kinda hard to keep contact with so forking over $4200 is a little concerning.

I know only the basics of what the solar is doing, so how hard would it be to cut out the middle man and just order my own parts? Would I save any money?
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I'd need to see what brand inverter and MPPT is included. Likely Chicom junk inverter based on the rating, but it's important to figure out how upgrades in the future would look.
 
That's what I am thinking as well, Chinese junk parts.
 
Right now, we just want our RV on our property. Figure we could buy a basic setup for it, then grow it for the 1200sqft home later as the project moves forward.
 
the "kits" are pretty easy to break down.

you already have the size of the load you want to supply.
the batteries (and inverter) get sized for how long you want to run that load.
you need to get to a solar array and voltage regulator that will recharge the batteries in a decent time frame.
obviously there are a whole gang of options for each piece of equipment in the train. that's were the research and comparison comes in.
 
Find Will Prowse on YouTube or his forum for good information
 
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batteries are a big deal and generator is a big chunk of this cost, but here is information, wiring, parts numbers and reasoning for solar setups.

4kw sounds like a whole shitton for a travel trailer :confused:

are you totally forgoing your generator? do you have enough coach bateries to support the A/C drain and 30 amp chargin? what are you trying to achieve with it?
 
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batteries are a big deal and generator is a big chunk of this cost, but here is information, wiring, parts numbers and reasoning for solar setups.

4kw sounds like a whole shitton for a travel trailer :confused:

are you totally forgoing your generator? do you have enough coach bateries to support the A/C drain and 30 amp chargin? what are you trying to achieve with it?
Sounds like he's talking 4kw of DC power which depending on his location, might not be that much if you look at how many kwh/day that ends up being. Panels hardly ever produce their maximum output, especially on a fixed array.
Go with name brand stuff (SMA, ABB, Outback, enphase, AP systems, Frontius, etc.) with long warranties. Order it all yourself so there's no issues getting the 26% tax credit.
 
Sounds like he's talking 4kw of DC power which depending on his location, might not be that much if you look at how many kwh/day that ends up being. Panels hardly ever produce their maximum output, especially on a fixed array.
Go with name brand stuff (SMA, ABB, Outback, enphase, AP systems, Frontius, etc.) with long warranties. Order it all yourself so there's no issues getting the 26% tax credit.
4kw is 4kw ac or dc, but if he's only got a small battery bank they may not hold up to having that much current run through them. i guess this will take some thinking cap to wrap my head around. if you are on shore power, then you aren't running large power through your batteries, those things are running off shore power and the batteries are getting a slow charge byproduct.
 
just kind of cruising, it looks like just the 4kw pure sine wave inverter would run 1200-3500 alone, so it would be worth it to find out brands and stuff for everything.

as well as it is listed "AGM batteries, 90 AH each" but doesn't say how many. That would be a pretty big piece of the puzzle and where it still seems like the "best" deal would be to use the ~chevy volt battery pack from car-part.com junkyard nearest you and reform your own, but that is going to be ~$1k probably.

pulling up specs for a 60amp MPPT controllers, renogy is rated at a 20amp load (60amp max input) and they are a typical "chinese" version of the thing, so i'd be concerned if that will meet your 30 amp load goals.

wire isn't cheap either, so i'm curious how much and what gauge they are quoting you.

If you could get a detailed product list it would make a whole bunch more sense, but i agree that you are right to be nervous about that system at that price with shaky communication
 
It looks like 8 PCS. 12V AGM.... but the format of that quote sucks. Just line each item
 
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batteries are a big deal and generator is a big chunk of this cost, but here is information, wiring, parts numbers and reasoning for solar setups.

4kw sounds like a whole shitton for a travel trailer :confused:

are you totally forgoing your generator? do you have enough coach bateries to support the A/C drain and 30 amp chargin? what are you trying to achieve with it?
I want to run the 5th wheel, minus the ac units.
Thats what has been recommended by the local guy:confused:

The trailer has two batt on-board
 
I want to run the 5th wheel, minus the ac units.
Thats what has been recommended by the local guy:confused:

The trailer has two batt on-board
Without the ac and likely without using the microwave, I have a hard time seeing how you could draw near 30 amps...it just sounds like a bunch. With a 100w panel ground mounted and single 105ah battery I have no issues maintaining the camper systems and normal light uses. Granted, probably too small, but under 5% of the size you are looking at.

Is your fridge and TV 120v only? What else are you running?
 
pulling up specs for a 60amp MPPT controllers, renogy is rated at a 20amp load (60amp max input) and they are a typical "chinese" version of the thing, so i'd be concerned if that will meet your 30 amp load goals.
For renogy at least, the load terminals aren't meant to supply the whole system load, more like courtesy lights or a relay for low voltage shutoff. Any high draw items (like inverters) are meant to wired to the battery/power distribution block directly, not through the charge controller. I imaging some of the other "mobile" systems are the same.
 
Spend the money on LiFePo4? They charge faster and last longer (more cycles over their life) and can discharge more reliably to 0% without impacting life span

I have 400W of solar, 400Ah of LifePo4, 40A DC-DC charger and a 3kW inverter charger on my TT and it's plenty for daily use without running the air conditioner. It does run the air and microwave easily and can run the air for up to 4 hours a day. Recharging is the issue but not running the air I have yet to run out of power

Can you fit 4kW of panels on the roof of your 5er or is this a stationary setup that you are plugging into?
 
Without the ac and likely without using the microwave, I have a hard time seeing how you could draw near 30 amps...it just sounds like a bunch. With a 100w panel ground mounted and single 105ah battery I have no issues maintaining the camper systems and normal light uses. Granted, probably too small, but under 5% of the size you are looking at.

Is your fridge and TV 120v only? What else are you running?
Our fridge can go propane, as well as the water heater we have two tvs, a fan and lights.

We will have the furnace fan draw ad water pump (using supplied hose pressure now)during winter to consider as well.

Currently the water heater, fridge are on electric because we are plugged into 50amps of shore power.
 
Spend the money on LiFePo4? They charge faster and last longer (more cycles over their life) and can discharge more reliably to 0% without impacting life span

I have 400W of solar, 400Ah of LifePo4, 40A DC-DC charger and a 3kW inverter charger on my TT and it's plenty for daily use without running the air conditioner. It does run the air and microwave easily and can run the air for up to 4 hours a day. Recharging is the issue but not running the air I have yet to run out of power

Can you fit 4kW of panels on the roof of your 5er or is this a stationary setup that you are plugging into?
We will likely ground mount. The shed we had placed has a roof that's probably unsuitable.
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If you're gonna ground mount might as well use it for a shade structure too


The lithium batteries are probably worth the money, but if you go lead acid, it seems that the golf cart batteries are made in southernish Ca, might be worth making a little trip if you're gonna see the beach...
 
Our fridge can go propane, as well as the water heater we have two tvs, a fan and lights.

We will have the furnace fan draw ad water pump (using supplied hose pressure now)during winter to consider as well.

Currently the water heater, fridge are on electric because we are plugged into 50amps of shore power.
biggest question would be if you are trying to run the fridge on 'pane or electric.

furnace fan and water pump isn't much of a consideration. I just have a hard time seeing a 4kw system rather than, say 400w system.

if you can ground mount, if you decide to go non-adjustable, then angle the same as your latitude which might give you a better angle than roof mounted on the shed. if you can, adjust them to the winter solstice for the month and a half before/after dec 23ish to help out with the shorter days
 
Tldr idiot time
? 8 batteries?
Putting a tag trailer on the back?
And chicom pricing.
And a sub 4 hour installation charge?
But , time to start reading the thread later....:beer:

So this is not solely for a 5th wheel but a 1200sq' home...
The off grid place I have looked at had several horizon sweeping arrays, the battery banks would kill an "f150":lmao:


Made it to post 8 so far
and +1 on post #12
Guy's that cannot prepare an invoice\bid make me nervous also!
 
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biggest question would be if you are trying to run the fridge on 'pane or electric.

furnace fan and water pump isn't much of a consideration. I just have a hard time seeing a 4kw system rather than, say 400w system.

if you can ground mount, if you decide to go non-adjustable, then angle the same as your latitude which might give you a better angle than roof mounted on the shed. if you can, adjust them to the winter solstice for the month and a half before/after dec 23ish to help out with the shorter days
We can run the fridge/wtr heater on propane.

Propanes easy...3 days tops and we have a 125 gallon tank on-site (largest the one company will drop for an RV)
 
We can run the fridge/wtr heater on propane.

Propanes easy...3 days tops and we have a 125 gallon tank on-site (largest the one company will drop for an RV)
In that case, it probably makes the most sense to spend the money to upgrade the current batteries to lifepo4 and 400w system like non op has got above
 
Are you in Tx?

I heard an advertisement for Texas Independent Energy. Their website is texasie.us, but don't know anything beyond that.
 

this is an easy kit to assemble yourself, comes with everything you'd need and be 400w, if you already have 2 coach batteries, it is likely well enough to run your furnace fan during the night and top it back off during the day, worse case scenario you buy a whole nother set of panels and have 800w, or upgrade your current batteries and increase capacity. but you will know pretty quickly how effective it is.

easiest thing to do if you want an idea of how much power you are using right now would be to run the generator/hook up to the truck and make sure that the batteries are fully topped off in the evening, let's say by 6pm, and then unhook and use as much power as you figure you would with the fridge on 'pane and turn on the heater maybe a bit higher to see what the draw will be.

then in the morning after sunrise, let's say 8am, check the level of the batteries and see what voltage they are at with the furnace and all the major stuff turned off, no lights etc. The voltage will then tell you what the battery level is, and then you can reverse engineer that from your capacity (2 batteries is probably 150-200 ah at 100% charge). then once you know how many amp hours you actually using, you can size a bit closer to your system.
 
That Renogy kit is good for an RV or mobile install, but that's not what I'd recommend for someone who's currently looking at a ground mount system.

Generally for a ground mount you want higher voltage panels, ran in series, keep the voltage as high as you can till you get to charge controller. Allows you to run smaller (cheaper) wire, and lowers restive losses.

I'm guessing the 4kw inverter recommendation came from the 30amp RV plug, 120v * 30amp = 3600w, with little regards to actual power draw.
Monkeys does the 5th wheel currently have an inverter, or just a gen?

That quote is real weird, and I'm not sure how he's making any money. I doubt you could put THAT system together with new quality components for less than that, but you might be able to build a system better suited for you, for less.
 
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