Budget XJ

[fl0w3n]

Yes, and not an LS but small block Chevys and small block fords. So they were V8s.

You may have some success with them. Maybe others will chime in.

Another detail - were the factory cases? Factory case with billet inspection cover? Or aluminum cases?

I am not that abusive of a driver so hopefully with low power I can make them live.

I still haven’t called NWF back to talk about some options, I’ll run it past them whenever I’m ready to actually buy the ecobox-i.
I also want to ask if they think a 6 gear planetary is necessary for my low power setup or if I can get by with the 3 gear from my 231.
Last time I called they did recommend the billet inspection cover to stiffen up the case.

 

[06h3]

Another detail - were the factory cases? Factory case with billet inspection cover? Or aluminum cases?

I am not that abusive of a driver so hopefully with low power I can make them live.

I still haven’t called NWF back to talk about some options, I’ll run it past them whenever I’m ready to actually buy the ecobox-i.
I also want to ask if they think a 6 gear planetary is necessary for my low power setup or if I can get by with the 3 gear from my 231.
Last time I called they did recommend the billet inspection cover to stiffen up the case.

Factory cast iron case but unsure of the billet inspection cover. This was years ago so I’d assume probably factory cover.

I’d imagine if your 3 pinion planetary is working for you now it will still work for you in the doubler

 

[fl0w3n]

Factory cast iron case but unsure of the billet inspection cover. This was years ago so I’d assume probably factory cover.

I’d imagine if your 3 pinion planetary is working for you now it will still work for you in the doubler

Good to know. I’m just bench racing here and talking out of my butt, but I think that could have been part of the issue. The 300 case isn’t like the 205 case and while strong and light it’s also not rigid. I wonder if the case flexed under the load and with the two piece gear casting from Terra they gave up the ghost due to the awkward load.
NWF told me the aluminum inspection cover helps rigidity. I assume a full aluminum case would be even better.

You’re probably right, I guess the input torque isn’t changing into the 3 gear so it shouldn’t care whether it’s part of a doubler or not.

 

[Rockwood]

Good to know. I’m just bench racing here and talking out of my butt, but I think that could have been part of the issue. The 300 case isn’t like the 205 case and while strong and light it’s also not rigid. I wonder if the case flexed under the load and with the two piece gear casting from Terra they gave up the ghost due to the awkward load.
NWF told me the aluminum inspection cover helps rigidity. I assume a full aluminum case would be even better.

You’re probably right, I guess the input torque isn’t changing into the 3 gear so it shouldn’t care whether it’s part of a doubler or not.

Load on the output side will actually be lower unless you’re in 2LO, but the chances of getting bound up are a lot lower there.

 

[fl0w3n]

Good point.

Once I’m done fiddlefucking with this 95 I just picked up I’ll either have it flipped and have the money to put into continuing the build or if it doesn’t sell I might swap everything over and build the 95 instead

 

[RunningProblem]

Build the 95 and ditch the Renix stuff. WAY more people make parts and run 95+ stuff. I'm using a 95 brake booster and master cylinder for my one ton swap in my 89, and I wish I had a 23 spline transmission just because I had to pass on an atlas transfer case for $2,600 because it wasn't bolt in and would cost too much to swap. I've even seen the NP241OR for sale at $2,000 and couldn't use it for the same reason. Renix electronics are great. The biggest difference to me is how rare they are and how common the 95+ stuff is.

 

[fl0w3n]

All good points. One other thing going for that idea is the 95 is uncut, so I can do the rear the right way at least.

I feel like the 95 engine bay is actually simpler too. It runs much smoother than my Renix.

TBD - if I can flip it I might prefer the $ right now

I haven’t had time to dig in yet, bought it with a bad trans. PO pulled the “bad” trans because it would start in 2nd when in D and you had to manually row through gears. Im pretty certain that’s just a bad NSS. Anyways they swapped in another supposedly working unit and it wouldn’t move at all. Im pretty sure I can hear the torque converter rattling so I don’t think they seated it all the way.
Worst case I have the other trans I picked up with the Dana 300 and coincidentally that’s a 95 unit too and I trust it works.

 

[RunningProblem]

So you have three transmissions to figure out?
Pull the transmission in the 95 and confirm the torque converter isn’t seated. it’s a lot of work for a Thursday night, but it might be easier to do than wait for the weekend.
All those 95 transmissions just make me wish I would have swapped my 21 spline when I replaced the rear freeze plug.

Oh yeah, if you haven’t checked it yet be really prepared for the rear freeze plug to rust and make a leak. It looks JUST like a rear main seal leak, but it’s much more work.

 

[fl0w3n]

Yes, I have 3 transmissions including the one in the 95. Not including the 21 spline in the 90.

The rear freeze plug leaks oil or coolant?

Where you located, once I get this sorted I should have a leftover 23 spline aw4…

 

[RunningProblem]

Coolant. It drips down the transmission but with how much dirt and crap are there on mine it was black.

 

[fl0w3n]

Been really busy getting married and shit, so haven’t done much.

I felt like I needed something to work on the transmission outside of the Jeep, so I had the idea to make this little cart. I’ve already realized some modifications I need for version 2.0, but it made it nice to not have to worry about making a mess all over my floor or trying to contain the mess on my workbench.

Anyways I ripped into the AW4 that came with that 95, that the PO removed because they thought they needed to replace it. I’m 90% sure their only issue was the NSS … they described that the Jeep wouldn’t shift automatically, it would start out in 2nd gear. But if they moved the shifter from 1-2 to 3 to D it would shift. I remember reading something back when I was considering a way to lock in 1st and 2nd gear that the NSS plays a part in telling the computer what to do shifting wise and the computer will default to 2nd gear if it can’t tell what position the NSS is in. Anyways guess I won’t know till I throw it in.

Also glad I took the pan off because I thought I had gotten some water in it when I was cleaning it the day I got the 95… turns out yes. Rinsed it out with lots of brake clean and then a quart of ATF poured into all the nooks and crannies.

 

[fl0w3n]

Does anyone have a measurement of the setback for the torque converter on an aw4? This is my first time setting one and I don’t think it’s seating input shaft, but nothing I am doing is getting me another clunk in. It wiggles more than I would expect if the input spline was seated along with the stator spline… but again I have nothing to compare to.

The 29/32 is to the face of one of the 4 threaded squares.

Worst case if no one has a measurement I can start pulling the trans out of the 95 and measure from the bell housing mating surface to flex plate surface the torque converter would mount to and see if that matches the setback I have

 

[fl0w3n]

Never mind, found it. I'm a dumbass with measurements again... I'm seated deeper than what it's calling for. It'll have to come forward to meet the flex plate anyways.

 

[RunningProblem]

How did you get it seated deeper than it has to be?

Edit: if I read your ruler correctly you’re about 21/32” from the flange.
21/32 = 0.6525.
0.6525” = 1.657 centimeter = 16.57 mm.

You’re fully seated.

 

[fl0w3n]

How did you get it seated deeper than it has to be?

Edit: if I read your ruler correctly you’re about 21/32” from the flange.
21/32 = 0.6525.
0.6525” = 1.657 centimeter = 16.57 mm.

You’re fully seated.

She asks me that all the time

Yeah, you’re right - I was so distracted by my frustration that I somehow was thinking going deeper was what I needed when in fact I’m over seated. According to the manual I posted the correct spot to measure from is the threaded square and not the center so I’m actually seated around 28/32 which equals 0.875”

I may actually need to use some shims between the flex plate and the tq converter depending on the gap when I pull the trans that’s in it still and measure

 

[RunningProblem]

Maybe the torque converter will slide off the transmission inout shaft a little bit so you don’t need shims? I don’t know. I never measured mine. Just pulled transmission, replaced a freeze plug, and slapped the transmission back in.

 

[fl0w3n]

Not speaking from experience, just my research, but there’s generally a range that is acceptable as a gap between the converter and flex plate. It should slide forward between 1/8” - 3/16”. Over that amount and you need to shim it or it risks not having enough spline engagement. Not enough and obviously you will have figment issues.

I guess if there wasn’t shims from the factory I don’t know why they would be required now.

 

[fl0w3n]

Side tracked on the main build still… finally played shit box shuffle and got the 95 in the garage to swap the trans last night after work.
Got everything ready to unbolt bell housing, converter, and pull the cooler lines tonight hopefully.

Sounds like I have a deal on it already, so need to get it done by next week.

Don’t want to count my chickens before they hatch but the deal should get me the ecobox money to continue building the doubler for the primary shit box.

 

[fl0w3n]

Old trans out, gonna swap everything over to the original one that came in the Jeep. I hope I’m right on what was wrong with the original one and don’t wind up taking it back out too.

I also am thinking about tearing into the one I just took out. If I pull the pump out will it be obvious if it’s a fried pump? That’s my suspicion on the one I just removed, but I’d like to learn more about autos.

 

[fl0w3n]

Sold the 95 today. Made enough cash to get the ecobox and nwf triple shifter. I’m going to call next week and place the order, make sure I’ve got my ducks in a row and I’m ordering the right shit/pulling right parts to build it. I’d like to think I could build shift linkage, but realistically I probably won’t be able to and will struggle and it will just delay me… cables sound easier.

Also got an external slave ax15 in the deal, with an np231. I’ll rob the input shaft from the 231 for the ecobox. I just need to find a 6 gear planetary from the junkyard now. I guess I need to pull the input shaft now to see what type of cut is on it to determine what year 241 to rob the planetary from so they match.

 

[fl0w3n]

I also am thinking of going with the SFR cross member. I think I can use it as a base to then add a mount for the 300 off of. I picked up some bling, a BPD D300 cross member plate to build off of, and a TDS thick aluminum inspection cover. Hoping these will help keep it alive. Also decided to paint the 300 yellow... that way I can see all the leaks

 

[fl0w3n]

Ordered what I think I need for the AX15 swap… damn that was more than I was expecting

• Dorman pilot bushing from cj with 0.754 ID and 1.057 OD
• Luk clutch kit for a 95 with pressure plate, clutch disk, release bearing
• Luk flywheel for a 90
• Timken input shaft seal for a 95
• AMS master and slave assembly for 95
• ARP flywheel bolts
• Renix CPS / new or swap existing from AW4 tbd on brand
• Renix manual TPS tbd on brand

Also just placed the order for the NWF EcoBox-I. This is I think the single most expensive item on the Jeep haha
I skipped on the cable shift kit for now because it’s just hard price to swallow… I’m going to try and see if I can fabricoble solid shifters, but I anticipate giving up in frustration and buying the cable shifters eventually.

 

[RunningProblem]

Order bolts to replace the stupid E12 top bolts before putting them back in.

Also a few quarts of ATF.

Why did you go with the i version of the exo box vs the others?

 

[fl0w3n]

Order bolts to replace the stupid E12 top bolts before putting them back in.

Also a few quarts of ATF.

Why did you go with the i version of the exo box vs the others?

Good call, those stupid fuckers are annoying. I have a box with some assorted grade 8s I’ll replace those 2 with.

The EcoBox-I stands for integrated, so the output shaft of the eco box is actually the input shaft of the 300. VS the output shaft splining onto the 300 input shaft. It shaves down a ton of lengh. I can't find the measurements but the ecobox-i and dana300 combo winds up being the same length as the stock np231 with SYE. That means I can reuse my driveshafts.


Ecobox-I output, that "output" shaft is the input shaft from a 231

 

[fl0w3n]

I decided to pull it apart for some tweaking after my short KOH trip. The damn thing sounds like a sinking ship on the trail.
Turns out the coils are rubbing the track bar mount at the top and a little bit at the frame side on passenger. I thought the WJ axle was wider but maybe the spring perches are slightly narrower than XJ. I’ll just let those keep self clearance

The other thing is the brakes are dragging, my suspicion was just rust build up from sitting unused for a couple months.

Also found that my track bar bracket hits the bump pads the previous owner added to the front so I’ll be cutting those off.

So the front end is getting a minor rebuild. I’m dumb and didn’t finish painting everything so I’ll give it a few coats while I’m in there

The biggest thing is I ordered a rebuild kit for the Auburn ECTED, so I’ll have a working front LSD now and a working front locker.

So the list is:

• Rebuild & rewire Auburn ECTED
• Add some extra plating to axle side track bar mount
• Cut off old bump pads from axle
• Clean / Paint / Lube everything up

And just because I forgot last time... I measured the RCV's and counted splines. They're 27 spline and 1 5/32 thick

The shafts are pretty crusty. I think I need some outter axle seals, I just need to find ones that fit with the tube sleeves

I didn’t hit any trails at KOH, just tooled around on some wedges and explored

 

[RunningProblem]

Can you take a flap disc to where the coils rub and clearance them yourself?

 

[fl0w3n]

That seems logical. I guess I could do that.

 

[fl0w3n]

Although I want to switch to AgitatedPancake track bar mount / brace / gusset and front stubby bumper soon when budget allows.

I was marveling at the fact that my cobbled together 2nd hand junk held up pretty decent bombing through the whoops at KOH. I have very little to no bump steer, but that might be because the slop inside the box is just absorbing that. My only issues seemed to be the track bar bracket hitting the added bump pads, and the occasional rhythm of whoops creating a rear end buck. But it seems like XJs are prone to that.

I eventually want to long arm this thing but for now the short arm is working with the track bar in its current location and length. I’m not sure how the Alpine one will affect that.

 

[fl0w3n]

Finally got off my ass. Pulled the front.

Ripped into the Auburn, finally makes a little more sense how it works seeing it for myself now. Rebuilt the clutch pack, comes with new side gears and spider gears, center chunk, and cross pin. Also has new roller bearing and locking pins for the magnet, but I can’t replace those without pulling the bearing off the diff and I don’t want to do that.

Center chunk is tight as fuck so I’m going to leave it in the freezer over night and hope it slides in easier tomorrow. The new clutch packs are going to probably make it a pain to get the spiders lined up with the center chunk and get the pin through.

 

[RunningProblem]

What Trader Joe’s ice cream is that you rich fancy fuck?