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Budget Tracker Build

FleshEater said:
The plastic would be superior for sure. Even if it cracks it’s be easy to fix.
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You have to have some kind of backer for it. A SxS belly has all kinds of webbing in it, biggest span is maybe 10”x10”

I run 1/2” for my boat sides and my biggest span is 12”x12” It’s deformed a little in a few spots. I’d say the spread on the Tracker frame is way too wide even for 1/2”. I’d worry that it would deform so much that it’s try and pull out of the mounting bolts.
 
Uhmw is probably what you want. It will basically never crack, it's super tough.

But ya, go 3/8 or 1/2. Add a few crossmembers like byro said and it should last a long time.

When I had my little tracker, the frame made it look pretty easy to go all the way almost to the axle with just a small notch for the driveshaft. Would be a game changer for sure wheelin in rocks.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Uhmw is probably what you want. It will basically never crack, it's super tough.

But ya, go 3/8 or 1/2. Add a few crossmembers like byro said and it should last a long time.

When I had my little tracker, the frame made it look pretty easy to go all the way almost to the axle with just a small notch for the driveshaft. Would be a game changer for sure wheelin in rocks.
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x2. I would likely do 1/8" steel with 1/4" HDPE/UHMW over it, or 3/16" AR500. The frame rails are stupid flat underneath, making some angle iron brackets to bolt to the sides and attach the skid to, wouldnt be too hard.
 
ParadisePWoffrd said:
x2. I would likely do 1/8" steel with 1/4" HDPE/UHMW over it, or 3/16" AR500. The frame rails are stupid flat underneath, making some angle iron brackets to bolt to the sides and attach the skid to, wouldnt be too hard.
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I would not use 1/4" uhmw, I don't think it would hold up well. Something this light doesn't need a plate backer imo. Just run 1/2" and be done.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I would not use 1/4" uhmw, I don't think it would hold up well. Something this light doesn't need a plate backer imo. Just run 1/2" and be done.
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Maybe you are correct, but it seems like a large unsupported span for just the plastic. I would rather run a thinner piece of AR500 anyway, even if it does weight a little more.
 
ParadisePWoffrd said:
Maybe you are correct, but it seems like a large unsupported span for just the plastic. I would rather run a thinner piece of AR500 anyway, even if it does weight a little more.
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I would add a few crossmembers. You'll never hurt 1/2" in a 2500 lb rig.

I would agree on the ar500 on a larger rig. The uhmw seems to do well on light rigs and being lighter itself is a bigger difference on a light rig.

I was going to do 1/8" AR on my 4 door 99, but it's not very common in that thickness.
 
I went out yesterday and did some of the best riding yet.

I hired a guide to take me out on some trails in the TWRA land between Windrock and Royal Blue riding areas.

I thought I had a full understanding on what the tracker would do, well following a guy on a built KRX on 37's really had me doing shit I would not have normally tried.

The Tracker did great. It has taken some damage though, I am not super happy with how I smashed the DS fender all up yesterday.

However, I did find an issue yesterday that I need to fix, I need to clearance the rear fender opening.

How is best for that, I would prefer not to have a sharp edge so I am thinking to cut and hammer?

Anyone have suggestions or pictures on best way to fix this?
 
No pics of damage? Lame. :flipoff2:

I would probably flex it out, cut it so it can’t hit and then paint it.
 
FleshEater said:
No pics of damage? Lame. :flipoff2:

I would probably flex it out, cut it so it can’t hit and then paint it.
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I was just not wanting the sharp edge that you get from a sawzaw

That is why I was thinking the cut and fold method, I have never done any before so asking the group for opinions
 
crispins said:
I was just not wanting the sharp edge that you get from a sawzaw

That is why I was thinking the cut and fold method, I have never done any before so asking the group for opinions
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There was a tool someone made on the old site to do what your talking about. Just a piece of round bar with a slot cut in the end. He used it to bend a flange on the edge after cutting fenders.
 
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Honestly, unless it rubs super bad, just hammer the lip over so it rubs on something smooth. The pie cut and bend over shit is about as hack as it gets imo.

The other option is wheels that don't stick out as far so the tires tuck.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Honestly, unless it rubs super bad, just hammer the lip over so it rubs on something smooth. The pie cut and bend over shit is about as hack as it gets imo.

The other option is wheels that don't stick out as far so the tires tuck.
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You can see how it rubs as the lugs are cut to shit.
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I cut and hammered back the lip around the wheel wells in the rear.

I took it out yesterday and it did not rub at all but it was also some real mild wheeling so not sure if actually fixed yet or not.

Yesterday I took it to Hurricane Creek over in NC, it was a pretty area but not a very hard trail.
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