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Budget Tracker Build

crispins said:
For me I used a string to set the toe to zero

For camber I am going for close to zero as well.

I pull the wheel, apply a little pressure with a jack under the strut, use a magnet bubble stuck to the rotor to get it close to zero.

Like I said for something that only sees a few miles of road here and there I am pretty happy.

If I was doing 1,000's of street miles a year I would have to get it more perfect.

I am fucking sick of alignment shops and am more willing to buy some equipment to start doing them myself.

Once I figured out the string method I have been super happy with my ability to get an alignment done quickly.
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I had to learn the string trick because I keep wiping out tie rod ends on the Yamaha. It keeps pulling the threads and stripping on the outer end.

Do these lower A arms adjust at all on these little things? It looks like they should, but doesn’t look like I have alignment bolts.
 
I took it out to Windrock again.

Since it was going to be my last trip for a while I wanted to do some of the harder trails.

I quickly found the limit to the tracker, rocks - lots of rocks.

I tried for a while, I felt with the skid plates and sliders I could handle them.

well the open front and back was really the issue, as I would get up on one whatever tires were not on the ground anymore would get the power and I would lose ability to move.

I ended up getting on top of a pretty big one and broke the joint on one of the front CV's

Winching myself out I got the cable screwed up and lost the winch.

I was 50 feet from the top.

Thankfully a group of guys came by and got me up the rest if not I might still be there using the come a long to get up that last 50.

My CV angle at full droop is horrible.

I plan on ordering the front dif rotation kit to get the angle a bit better.

I have ordered a synthetic line for the winch which I hope will be easier to use, I also ordered a spare line so I have a 120 feet of pull if I need it.
 
Those sliders turned out great, though it's definitely time for a lunchbox or lincoln locker at least in the rear.
 
* UPDATE *

I had some work done to it and will be testing it out tomorrow.

I put a spool in the rear, got the brakes working correctly finally, and installed the front dif rotation arms.

Taking it out tomm to a new place I haven't been to before, I am thinking the spool is going to make a good difference.

I also gutted the rear out, installed 4 eye bolts, and now have all my recovery gear strapped down.

I was able to fit the high lift in as well.
 
crispins said:
* UPDATE *

I had some work done to it and will be testing it out tomorrow.

I put a spool in the rear, got the brakes working correctly finally, and installed the front dif rotation arms.

Taking it out tomm to a new place I haven't been to before, I am thinking the spool is going to make a good difference.

I also gutted the rear out, installed 4 eye bolts, and now have all my recovery gear strapped down.

I was able to fit the high lift in as well.
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The rear spool is a game changer.
 
I see Toyota axles and links in your future if you like playing on the rocks at Windrock. When your ready, I know a guy..... :grinpimp:
 
Was it this thread or FleashEater’s that the spongy brake pedal was brought up? I just figured it out the other day. The rear drums have this wacky ratcheting self adjuster. If you have to do the pedal pump a few times to get decent pedal or have long pedal travel your rear shoes are smoked. The adjuster runs out of adjustment then it takes a ton of wheel cylinder travel to contact the drum, thus causing spongy/long pedal travel. Did new shoes and pedal is right and tight.

Of course if this has already been covered ignore the above.
 
Byro said:
Was it this thread or FleashEater’s that the spongy brake pedal was brought up? I just figured it out the other day. The rear drums have this wacky ratcheting self adjuster. If you have to do the pedal pump a few times to get decent pedal or have long pedal travel your rear shoes are smoked. The adjuster runs out of adjustment then it takes a ton of wheel cylinder travel to contact the drum, thus causing spongy/long pedal travel. Did new shoes and pedal is right and tight.

Of course if this has already been covered ignore the above.
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no, you fucking nailed it.

I just could not see how the shoes were the issue, they had meat on them, I could adjust them till they dragged slightly, they seemed fine.

After trying everything, such as 2 new masters, bypassing the RADS (whatever it is called), new front calipers (needed them anyway), endless bleeding... I finally replaced the rear shoes and now the brakes are hard and work amazing.

I truly don't get it but it was the answer. :homer::homer:
 
SLOWPOKE693 said:
I see Toyota axles and links in your future if you like playing on the rocks at Windrock. When your ready, I know a guy..... :grinpimp:
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Not sure. I was really set on getting that setup as I thought it was the ultimate way.

However, I went to a new area today, 200,000 acres

The Tracker did amazing, really good, was impressed.

Prior to today I was just OK with it, that is why I have been looking for something more 'hardcore'

However, now I am really happy with it.

The type of trails I was on today the tracker was perfect for it.

I plan on spending the rest of my riding season over there and will re-evaluate later.

I have always heard how great these little trucks can be, well today was the first day really seeing it!
 
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Meeting up with a group for a day at Windrock tomorrow

Curious to see how mine hangs with other vehicles, I don't know much about the group, looks like a lot of Toyotas.
 
SLOWPOKE693 said:
I see Toyota axles and links in your future if you like playing on the rocks at Windrock. When your ready, I know a guy..... :grinpimp:
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If I could weld I’d be heading down this avenue with my white one, for sure.

Windrock has some gnarly trails, man.
 
Byro said:
I’m just across the river, I’ve got a set of tons at the shop if you really wanna go full retard.
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I did not want to go THAT big! :laughing:

Tacoma axles would be ideal for what I’m doing. Just enough to run 35’s or 37’s and not be dragging giant diffs in mud holes.
 
FleshEater said:
I did not want to go THAT big! :laughing:

Tacoma axles would be ideal for what I’m doing. Just enough to run 35’s or 37’s and not be dragging giant diffs in mud holes.
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Toy axles, with 5.71s and 35s would probably still be fun. Much more than that, you start a big snow ball. Wheel base is too short, but the gas tank is in the way, gearing isn't low enough, not enough Hp, ect.

Toy axles and 35 utv tires would be pretty damn fun though. They're probably as tall as some 37s anyway, but way lighter. I ran 33x14.50 boggers :laughing: on my bone stock welded diff Toyota axles when I swapped them in high school and they were about indestructible under a light zuk.
 
JR4X said:
Well how’d it go?
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So freaking good!

It was the first time I really pushed the Tracker to do hard stuff and it was so impressive.

There was not a person in the group I was with that did not come up to tell me how bad ass the tracker was.

this was the only thing I got stuck on

PXL_20220115_192347786.jpg



You can see I got up to the top but had the frame on the ground and the rear tires sticking in the air


PXL_20220115_190912516.MP.jpg



Quick winch out and I was on my way
PXL_20220115_190849005.jpg



I did have a rear coil spring drop out at one point.

I will make a thread on that as I want to find longer rear springs and get rid of the spacers


All and all I had the best day wheeling ever and really loving the tracker setup!
 
crispins said:
I did have a rear coil spring drop out at one point.

I will make a thread on that as I want to find longer rear springs and get rid of the spacers


All and all I had the best day wheeling ever and really loving the tracker setup!
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I have a hose clamp through the lower spring perch to hold the spring in. The Thunderbird shocks really let the rear drop out and I lost a coil a time or two. The hose clamp track was a trail fix that became a permanent fix. :lmao:
 
I took it out to a local spot that I tried last year.

Last year both times I went I got stuck pretty bad and one time could not even get myself out and had to go and get help.

Anyway, I went out with a buddy that has a 4 door on 31's M/T's, rest is stock.

I had to pull him out 3-4 times as he would get stuck following behind me.

I am really happy with how my Tracker is doing, went anywhere easily.

The area is deep mud, lots of ruts, lots of ledges.

I think i am at a crossroads with the build.

it does everything I like doing easily, what it doesn't do is the boulders.

However, I am not really sure I even want to get into that.

Like many of us, I am always planning my next move, it seems like my best move is to just drive it the way it is.

Also the other Tracker I was with had to go very slow all the time as his ride is so rough, I think the SxS tires running at 12 PSI really makes the tracker so much smoother.

I remember when I first mounted them I ran them at like 22 PSI and the ride was shit.

So I guess my truck is done, now just take it out and enjoy it
 
crispins said:
I took it out to a local spot that I tried last year.

Last year both times I went I got stuck pretty bad and one time could not even get myself out and had to go and get help.

Anyway, I went out with a buddy that has a 4 door on 31's M/T's, rest is stock.

I had to pull him out 3-4 times as he would get stuck following behind me.

I am really happy with how my Tracker is doing, went anywhere easily.

The area is deep mud, lots of ruts, lots of ledges.

I think i am at a crossroads with the build.

it does everything I like doing easily, what it doesn't do is the boulders.

However, I am not really sure I even want to get into that.

Like many of us, I am always planning my next move, it seems like my best move is to just drive it the way it is.

Also the other Tracker I was with had to go very slow all the time as his ride is so rough, I think the SxS tires running at 12 PSI really makes the tracker so much smoother.

I remember when I first mounted them I ran them at like 22 PSI and the ride was shit.

So I guess my truck is done, now just take it out and enjoy it
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Boulders are fun, but breaking stuff sucks.

Are you still running stock transfer case gears?

If JR ever gets his Altered Ego stuff we can see if they’re a worthy investment to make these way more capable.
 
FleshEater said:
Boulders are fun, but breaking stuff sucks.

Are you still running stock transfer case gears?

If JR ever gets his Altered Ego stuff we can see if they’re a worthy investment to make these way more capable.
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I am running the stock gears still.

On steep inclines I run out of gear as first is a bit low and 2nd way too tall.

However I just keep it at like 15 mph in first while climbing and it is fine.

For all the work and money it would take I don't think it solves a real problem for me.

Now twin sticks would be cool as I would prefer to do most of the stuff I do in 2wd / low and be able to switch it into 4wd only when needed.
 
crispins said:
I am running the stock gears still.

On steep inclines I run out of gear as first is a bit low and 2nd way too tall.

However I just keep it at like 15 mph in first while climbing and it is fine.

For all the work and money it would take I don't think it solves a real problem for me.

Now twin sticks would be cool as I would prefer to do most of the stuff I do in 2wd / low and be able to switch it into 4wd only when needed.
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I agree. I was eyeing up the Savage Trail gear for a while in 3:24, but you probably run trails a bit faster like I do.

Shifting between 4lo and 4hi would get really old, but the twin stick would be really handy in drier climates.
 
People always seem stunned that I have a front locker aluminum diff and knock on wood have never broken it. I credit that to gratuitous use of super low range not having to throttle around every where. I’m in control of it. But I don’t do mud, I hate mud! It’s either snow or rocks or desert for my beater. I need a more useable hi range but with the new project I just got my hands on the tracker is once again getting kicked to the back burner. Long term Neglect, abuse and more neglect it is.
 
I enjoy the sound of the 16v on the limiter, it’s spends a decent amount of time there on climbs because occasionally it will run out of steam in 2nd.

Buddy of mine made a flat belly for his from the front crossmember to the trans crossmember, it really helps. He’ll slide right over stuff I get all hung up on.
 
Byro said:
I enjoy the sound of the 16v on the limiter, it’s spends a decent amount of time there on climbs because occasionally it will run out of steam in 2nd.

Buddy of mine made a flat belly for his from the front crossmember to the trans crossmember, it really helps. He’ll slide right over stuff I get all hung up on.
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I have thought about that.

I have the big front skid plate and the factory tiny one by the transfer and the rear tank skid.

What material did he use?
 
crispins said:
I have thought about that.

I have the big front skid plate and the factory tiny one by the transfer and the rear tank skid.

What material did he use?
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This!

How? My rzr has a skid plate from end to end snd I can slide that little thing over boulders my Jeep on 40’s diffs out on. It would be nice to be able to do the same with the tracker.
 
JR4X said:
This!

How? My rzr has a skid plate from end to end snd I can slide that little thing over boulders my Jeep on 40’s diffs out on. It would be nice to be able to do the same with the tracker.
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SxS's use plastic, I forget the name of it HDME or something?

I have wondered about getting a sheet of that just not sure how think it would need to be. It is `1/4" on a SxS so I wonder if 1/3" would work for the weight of the Tracker?
 
crispins said:
I have thought about that.

I have the big front skid plate and the factory tiny one by the transfer and the rear tank skid.

What material did he use?
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Some 1/4” steel he had laying around. I bet you could get away with 3/16” on these little things though just because they’re so light and the span between frame rails isn’t very wide.

If you really wanted it to slide stick some 1/4” HDPE over it. I think I got got a 2’x4’ sheet off eBay for my big crawler boatsides for like $60 shipped. It’s taken an absolute beating on that thing.

:Edit:, JR beat me to it.
 
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